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I mean stuck as in I put the slide in a vice and hit it hard enough with a hammer to bend the cupped punch. I tried penetrating oil, break free, WD40, etc... - no joy. For reference its a short extractor P229R probably bought around 2008 or so. Not sure of the date. Serial # AL6####. Just wanted to clean the firing pin. What a pain...

Any ideas? No possible way this pin is coming out with a simple hammer and punch. Its the positioning pin that is thicker on the left side than the right. Not a roll pin.
 
Posts: 2732 | Location: Unass the AO | Registered: December 16, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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Years ago I saw that at the factory they used a >Massive!< arbor press to work on that variety of pin. As I understand it, Grayguns drills them out. That must be done very carefully, though, to avoid damage to the slide. It might just be easiest to send the slide to them or SIG.

And good luck.




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Posts: 45714 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It can definitely be difficult, occasionally impossible with "regular" tools. Using a short (aka starter) 3mm cupped tip punch and a large hammer usually works. If not, then sigfreund's suggestion is recommended.


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Posts: 8620 | Location: UT | Registered: December 05, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for the info. I will contact Gray Guns. I have already been buying parts from them lately - the P30 Short Reset Trigger upgrade is great. I also just bought one of their fat struts for a 226 with SRT to see how that works out.

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Posts: 2732 | Location: Unass the AO | Registered: December 16, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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As Chris says, a 3mm starter punch is a good idea. I put the slide in my padded vice (thin sheets of UHMW pads) so the pin is just above the vice jaws, only so much the pin is perpendicular to the slide and also resting on the vice jaw. This allows you to hold the cupped pin more precisely lined up. Hit it smartly only once, check alignment, repeat. Don't wail away at it as if the punch slips off, you'll damage the frame. I've always been successful without resorting to the BT-10 pin press.
 
Posts: 1256 | Location: Nevada, United States | Registered: April 13, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I was finally able to get the pin out using a heavier weight punch and the vice. When I got the pin out I could see a ring indention on the right side of the pin that I have not seen before. This ringed indention is about 1/8” from the end. It goes completely around the pin. Looks almost like a ring that would get a small C shaped retainer. Defect perhaps? There is finish in the indention so it clearly came that way.

At any rate, persistence paid off. I got the firing pin chamber and pin cleaned up and replaced the pin.

Appreciate everyone’s help.
 
Posts: 2732 | Location: Unass the AO | Registered: December 16, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for letting us know!


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Posts: 8620 | Location: UT | Registered: December 05, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Unflappable Enginerd
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quote:
Just wanted to clean the firing pin. What a pain...

Since no one has mentioned it, that style pin is NOT intended to be reused. Once removed it should be replaced.

Also, that "ringed indention" is part of the design for the solid FPPP, that's where the splines are machined outward from...


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Posts: 5240 | Location: Headland, AL | Registered: April 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by stoic-one:
quote:
Just wanted to clean the firing pin. What a pain...

Since no one has mentioned it, that style pin is NOT intended to be reused. Once removed it should be replaced.

Also, that "ringed indention" is part of the design for the solid FPPP, that's where the splines are machined outward from...


While not disputing that, I have re-used the solid pins, on condition, with no problem, I carefully line up the splines with any slight indents at the left side of the hole. I do keep spare new pins, of course.
 
Posts: 1256 | Location: Nevada, United States | Registered: April 13, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by bumper:

While not disputing that, I have re-used the solid pins, on condition, with no problem, I carefully line up the splines with any slight indents at the left side of the hole. I do keep spare new pins, of course.


I have too. Roll pins as well where applicable. No issues as a result, but I agree it's not optimal!


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Posts: 8620 | Location: UT | Registered: December 05, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Is there an easy method to upload photos?
Drag & drop 2022 ? thanks.
 
Posts: 9 | Registered: January 29, 2022Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I did replace the pin with a new one. Everything is back together and working normally. I added a GG Fat Strut and the 19 lb spring when I put the 229 back together. Seems to go well with the SRT that was already in the 229.

I was wondering if Sig went to this type of retaining pin due to using the same parts in 40/357 229s. Just a thought. Most of the older 9mms had roll pins - at least mine did.

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Posts: 2732 | Location: Unass the AO | Registered: December 16, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That's a good question, I don't know either. Just picked up a pristine P228 from 1991 with roll pin, while my later, '94 and up, P229's have solid pins up through at least 2006 or so. Then they went back to spring type roll pins. I've never had a problem with either type, though the solid ones look better. I always put half an orange ear foam plug between hammer and FP for dry fire practice - easier on the mechanicals.
 
Posts: 1256 | Location: Nevada, United States | Registered: April 13, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Unflappable Enginerd
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quote:
Originally posted by bumper:
That's a good question, I don't know either. Just picked up a pristine P228 from 1991 with roll pin, while my later, '94 and up, P229's have solid pins up through at least 2006 or so. Then they went back to spring type roll pins. I've never had a problem with either type, though the solid ones look better. I always put half an orange ear foam plug between hammer and FP for dry fire practice - easier on the mechanicals.
Just bumping this back up for a bit of clarification.

Generally there are 3 types of "pins":
Stamped carbon steel slides used dual slotted roll pins, 1 larger pin with 1 small pin inside it. Read, original classic SIG's (P220, P225, P226, and P228).

When SIG first started using Machined Stainless steel slides, originally they used the FPPP's. It's a tapered pin with a spline machined at the smaller diameter (right) end.

At some point, and I can't name the exact year, SIG started using coiled/spiral pins

The technical term for the original pins is slotted spring pins. These can be broken if subjected to excessive dry fire without snap caps or other methods. Some people stuff an earplug in front of the hammer, I use a rubber o-ring to prevent the hammer from impacting the firing pin. I've broken my share of these.

The FPPP's are proprietary to SIG pistols and are not a commonly available part, except as a part for SIG's. These can also be broken if subjected to excessive dry fire without snap caps or other methods. Also broken my share of these.

The technical term for the spiral pins is coiled spring pins, and they are exactly what they sound like. Never broken one of these, but I never dry fire without a rubber o-ring in front of the hammer anymore, either.

I'm aware of some people replacing FPPP's with coiled spring pins, but I believe it is necessary to drill out the right side hole (smaller spline side) in the slide to match the diameter of the left side (larger taper end of pin). As I vaguely remember, Bruce Gray mentioned this in a thread a good while ago...

Coiled spring pins can also be used as replacements for the dual spring pins.


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Posts: 5240 | Location: Headland, AL | Registered: April 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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