Tony "benny6" is building a P229 for me, the story is here:

https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...0601935/m/9720042705

To the best of my knowledge, there are three choices for a short reset trigger kit:

• The SIG SRT kit,
  
  
• The GGI SRT kit, and
  
  
• The QTR kit from Robert "The SIG Armorer" Burke.

I am looking for information from any of you who have personal knowledge about these kits, and recommendation for choice.

V I cannot offer advice on the differences on the three mentioned but will pass on my experience with the Sig SRT when they first came out.

I was able to snag a few when the only way they could be had was to send the gun to Sig and have them install it or from a Sig certified armorer who could only buy them at the time that they were at Sig taking the armorers course. Most were caught off guard and didn't have the cash on hand to buy the kits when at Sig so they missed out on buying them.

Anyway I installed the two kits in a couple of my Sigs and found that I was missing resets on the Sigs that I hadn't installed the SRT kits in so I decided that it was either do all my Sigs or none. I honestly never felt the shorter reset did anything for my shooting needs. It didn't improve the DA/SA trigger at all it only makes for a shorter reset which I personally see no benefit in for my shooting needs.

If you already have SRT kits installed then I would stay with what you already have installed.

I do know that a call to Robert Burke will give you an honest opinion on the differences between the three or for sure the Sig and the QTR.

I also have no experience with the options other than the Sig factory kit, but I have been very happy with those. Unlike Mustang-PaPa, I really like the short reset as it coincides well with the LTT trigger bars in my Beretta 92s. I agree that it's all or nothing, though...if I shoot a semi-auto that doesn't have it I can definitely tell, and occasionally catch myself short-stroking.

If you're used to a short reset it's worth the investment. If you're not, it may not be worth taking that first step down what's likely to become a long and expensive path.

I had a bad case of hammer-follow directly after Sig Custom Shop installed one of their SRT kits in my 229. I shipped it back to Sig with an explanation of the problem, and it came back working just fine.

quote:

Originally posted by kkina:

I had a bad case of hammer-follow

I am not familiar with that term.

What is "hammer-follow?"

I'm not necessarily the best person to explain it, but basically the hammer directly follows the slide as it slams forward, firing the round that just chambered without trigger input. The gun keeps cycling until the mag is empty. It essentially turns your pistol into an unstoppable machine gun. Not too safe.

My preference is the QTR over the Sig SRT without any doubt. I know Robert Burke and he's done fine work for me but when it comes to the QTR I've only had Gerry Ritacco do mine, Total Automation, He developed the QTR I understand.

I have both Sig SRT and GG SRT on various models, P220, P226, P228, and P229. I prefer the GrayGuns, specially go together with the GG Fat hammer strut is better than the Sig SRT, IMHO. The GG SRT's much smoother and seems to have a shorter reset.
I have no experience with Burke's system.
The GG SRT and the fat hammer strut, combine with the 19lbs (blue) mainspring, is the way to go. They would cost more than the Sig SRT. You can not go wrong going with either one. Have fun with your selection.

Sig uses a MIM sear in the short reset kit. Back when they were the first and only source for SRT, in installed a number of them. When checking the sear to hammer engagement surfaces, the MIM sears were never perfect, engaging the full cock notch of the hammer unevenly, one side only or both sides but not the middle etc. I checked them using DyKem layout fluid, though a felt tip marker or the surfaces would work as well.

Problem is, the MIM sear shows no evidence of post molding machining. The shrinking process introduces unevenness in the final part. I measured out of parallel of a couple of thousandths of an inch before truing up the parts on Power Custom jigs.

Gray Guns SRT kit is more expensive, but the sear is a machined steel part. They used to sell both a duty version with a positive engagement angle of roughly 15 degrees as well as a competition version with half that for a lighter SA trigger pull. They dropped the comp version, probably due to misplaces liability concerns.

A problem exists with GG's safety lever that GG has not (to the best of my knowledge) admitted to. The safety lever upper "nub" will not drop down far enough for the slide to fit back on the frame. The best fix is to remove a bit of material on the back side of the safety lever lower leg where it contacts the hammer pivot pin - this added clearance will allow the safety lever nub to drop down a bit more. I do not recommend removing material from the top nub of the lever, as this will also reduce the lift of the firing pin block plunger. In extreme cases (e.g. wear on parts etc.) this can result in the FP hitting the plunger and robbing the FP of energy to cause light primer strikes/misfires.