Hey all-

My shotgun cut my hands to ribbons, during a class, recently.
How would you go about breaking some of the sharp edges? I don't want a full-on professional "melt job", just smoothing the sharp edges around the loading and ejection ports.

Flitz and a Dremel, myself, and then send it out for a refinish?
Local gunsmith and then refinish?

Bruce

Is this a steel reciever?

Aluminum Beretta 1201FP.

I don’t know if flitz will cut through the anodizing to allow you to soften the sharp edges. I’ve used 320 grit “Wet or Dry” sandpaper to dehorn a stainless carry revolver. It worked well for that. I wrapped it around a rectangular rubber pencil eraser for a sanding block, to maintain a more consistent edge angle where needed for appearances.

Dremel tools have bad reputations in some circles, but if used judiciously they are a great tool. For the job you’re asking about, that’s exactly what I would use. If, however, the edges are sharp enough to actually cut, I agree that Flitz and a felt bob will probably not be enough unless you’re prepared to take a very long time.

Sandpaper would no doubt work as well and be more controllable, but I personally would use a Dremel with some sort of CRATEX tip. They are available with different abrasive grades, and I’d start with something not too aggressive. I have often used them for removing the sharp edges on the inside of magazine lips and other jobs when I wanted to remove a little metal. The finer abrasives will leave a pretty smooth finish, but you could always follow up with Flitz. With aluminum it’s necessary to be a little careful and not gouge the work, but just go slowly and hold the Dremel with both hands (clamp the gun to a bench or other sturdy surface). Practicing beforehand is a good idea to get a feel for things.

As for refinishing, the first question is why do you think that’s necessary? If it’s for resale value, once the gun has been modified, and especially refinished, it’s not original no matter what. If it’s just for the looks of the small polished areas, you might consider Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. It’s not great stuff, but it works okay on freshly polished surfaces. (Tip: remove all polishing compound residue and apply the stuff immediately.)

If you decide on refinishing, then there’s all the issues with anodizing: Strip and reduce the strength of the metal, or cover with a coat that may not be very durable, etc.? Even if I thought I might sell the gun at some point, I’d just let the buyer decide on refinishing.

Thanks for the replies.
I am not worrying about resale value. I just want to have black gun without a ton of exposed aluminum that says "A gun plumber was here". I am considering Alumablack or air-dry Cerakote and a makeup sponge.
I will definitely go slow with the polishing. I will look at some different abrasive flexible tips.

Bruce

I built a few 1911s from new frames last year and discovered ceramic files. (Hadn't done that kind of work in well, many years).
Wow, what a difference.

Consider using a ceramic file- very controllable (downside to dremel) and come in a huge variety of shapes/profiles. What I really like about the ceramic files is the ability to get a smooth surface without removing too much material. Reasonable price also.

I may try my Spyderco Sharpmaker stones, as they are very similar to the above.

Bruce

quote:

Originally posted by Rinehart:
Consider using a ceramic file

Nice set of stones. Where did you purchase them?
And is that a homemade case?

.

Hi Sigfreund,
I just found your post from November when I was trying to locate a post about preparing plastic grip modules to be cut so they don't turn grey due to heat.

Back in December I contacted Rinehart about the manufactor of the ceramic files he shared. He wrote...

Spyderco ceramic files. Unless you can find a set of used ones (seems to be hard to find on Ebay), the cheapest price I see now is on Amazon at $52.50.

https://www.amazon.com/Spyderc...id=1576537169&sr=8-2

.