I have two Sig 229's (one older model and an M11-A1). Both have a tendency to nosedive or partially load when I rack them by hand. Not every time but enough to be a concern. No problem if I use the slide release to laod. I had a similar problem with a 229R last year and I sent it to Sig and they simply polished the feed ramp. I've tried polishing the feed ramps on my two guns but I can't get them down to white metal. I've gone as low as 400 grit but I don't want to do something to mess them up. All I'm doing is making speckles where some of the bluing is coming off but I can't get them down to white metal. Is this an issue that I need to be concerned about or is it normal?
Do you slingshot the slide when racking by hand ? If you're riding the slide partially forward and/or reducing its forward momentum in some fashion, that might be the problem - not the feed ramp.
I hold the slide firmly with my left hand and push the frame rapidly forward with my right hand until it lets go. I'm sure that method still does not result in the same impact as the slide release or an actual shot but I've done that on all my other guns (Glocks, Smiths, Springfields, etc.) and never had this problem with them. Some guns like the Smith M&P will hesitate when it hits the ramp but it still goes all the way in without a problem. Just wondering if this is a quirk with Sigs.
But to answer your specific question, no, it is not a quirk with SIG pistols normally. If the problem (failing to chamber) does not occur when you use the slide catch lever, it is still possible there's something about your manual release method that contributes to the problem.
I can tell at sight a Chassepot rifle from a javelin.
I'm using Sig V Crown HP's but it also happens with FMJ but not as bad. It dawns on me that the forward motion of my right hand (and the frame) could reduce the relative force of the forward motion of the slide. I guess I need to play with my slingshot technique.
Here's a tip on your slingshot technique. Many people hold the pistol in a fixed position and then pull back for the slingshot. If that's reliable, fine.
However, it's more efficient to push the frame forward while simultaneously pulling back the slide for the slingshot. Distributes the force 50/50. Easier to pull the slide to the full rearward position for the release.
Also a good method for those with compromised hand strength. In our classes, some women have a problem racking the slide. The push-pull method solves the problem, even with 1911's.
Generally, a classic Sig should not need feed ramp polishing. If the ramp was so rough it needed polishing, it would be apparent to the touch.
FWIW, polishing means polishing...not removal of metal. Done easily by hand with Flitz polish and a cloth. Or a Dremel on low speed with a felt bob and polish.
An expert is one who knows more and more about less and less until he knows absolutely everything about nothing. --Nicholas Murray Butler
If there's "color", soft bullet metal transfer to the ramp, the ramp should be polished to improve feed reliability.
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