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Member |
I got my P220 DAK disassembled. I need to remove all parts because I am getting the frame refinished. There is one pin (photo below) that I was able to remove (there is a mark around the hole that made me think it was a 2 part roll pin)...... I am using a 1/8" punch. I would like to replace the pin with a new one, I cant seem to find the name of that pin on the diagrams..... does anyone know what it is? Also, there is a pin in the hammer, can that be removed?   This message has been edited. Last edited by: billinaz, | ||
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| That's just the Flomax talking  |
My humble opinion is leave them be-don't remove. I am not aware of any dual roll pin in the frame of any SIG P-series pistol. | |||
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| Member |
I got out a lope and it appears you are right, it was just a pin. There is a mark on the frame where someone must have tapped it with a punch that was too large. I need it all out because it is being refinished. (good thing, it will get rid of the mark around the pin hole). Now the question is....... What part is this? I want to replace it with a new pin. | |||
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Member |
I believe you are talking about the HD pin? Does look like a roll pin Do not remove this. This is pressed in at the factory and should not be removed. If it does come out for some reason it must be sent back to the factory to be replaced. Not a Sig armory level job. Sent maybe two pistols back for this work over the last 15 or so years. Not seen often. This is what holds the ejector in one hole ,then the sear, sear spring in the middle then the safety lever working from left side to the right. They are all held together with a removable sear pin. The HD pin is not removable and is just in front of a removable solid sear pin. I hope I was able to explain this enough. Also don’t remove the pin on the hammer. _______________ NRA Life Member | |||
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| Freethinker |
The hammer strut pin (in the hammer) can be removed easily if the refinisher wants it removed. At one time it was necessary to order it separately from a replacement hammer and if one forgot (ask me how I know), the pin could be removed from the old hammer and installed in the new. I don’t know it if was really necessary or even effective, but somewhere I was told that it was a good idea to support the two wings on either side of the pin by inserting a small wedge or something similar into the slot when removing or installing the hammer strut pin. I’ve always done that on the assumption that it might help and can’t hurt. The small pin you’re referring to is the sear spring pin HD and it was never removed in the armorer classes I attended. On the other hand, I had one come loose and the SIG rep was just going to send me a replacement until I told him it evidently wasn’t armorer level work. Its purpose is to hold the sear spring under compression. ► 6.4/93.6 | |||
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| Member |
Im not following what you are saying..... I was told that it was a good idea to support the two wings on either side of the pin by inserting a small wedge or something similar into the slot when removing or installing the hammer strut pin. I’ve always done that on the assumption that it might help and can’t hurt. As for the sear spring pin HD As you can see......its already out.This message has been edited. Last edited by: billinaz, | |||
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| Freethinker |
I misinterpreted your comment about having removed the pin and what I was seeing in the photo, so no, I did not see that it was already out. If you don’t understand what I’m referring to regarding the hammer strut pin, there is probably no reason to worry about it. ► 6.4/93.6 | |||
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| Wait, what? |
This. If you managed to get it out, you may have to send the frame to Sig to get one reinstalled. It is a VERY tight fit. “Remember to get vaccinated or a vaccinated person might get sick from a virus they got vaccinated against because you’re not vaccinated.” - author unknown | |||
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| Member |
I did.... it came out very easy with a 1/8 sear pin punch..... Hopefully the new one will tap right back in. | |||
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| Member |
I am confused about using wedges for the hammer pin.... | |||
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| Moderator |
The “wedge” might not be the best term. He means that it may be prudent to support the gap where the hammer strut goes to prevent the half that the pin enters from breaking. (Not sure that description is any better __________________ "Owning a handgun doesn't make you armed any more than owning a guitar makes you a musician." -Jeff Cooper | |||
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| Member |
So I am going to send the frame and pin to Sig to have them press the sear spring in. My question is..... should I do that before or after I get the NP3 applied? I have the replacement pin and I was going to have them both finished before I sent them..... I dont think NP3 is going to affect the tolerances to a point where it would be detrimental. | |||
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Member |
Probably talk to your NP3 guy first. NP3 is about .001 thick so if the pin hole and the pin are coated, I don't think the pin can be pressed in again without problems. Might be better to press in pin first or plug hole before coating. Making pin hole smaller with coating and making pin larger with coating is not gonna work out. | |||
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| Member |
I just talked to Sig. Im sending the in the frame and they are going to replace the pin, then it will go to get finished. | |||
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| Freethinker |
Yes, I should have not mentioned it at all, (and thanks, Chris), but as I did, here it is pictured: The hammer in the photo is a non-MIM DA/SA “sport” hammer and unlikely to break, but it was what I had available. ► 6.4/93.6 | |||
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| Member |
Ahhhh, I see now. THANKS!. I wound up sending the frame to Sig to press in a sear spring pin before I send it out to get NP3'd. | |||
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| Freethinker |
You're welcome, and best with your project. If nothing else, such things keep us busy.  I will be interested to see the final results. ► 6.4/93.6 | |||
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| Member |
Where can one acquire one of said wedges?? | |||
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| On the wrong side of the Mobius strip  |
That looks a lot like the shims used to level toilet bowls. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DA...Pack-88523/202305811 | |||
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| Freethinker |
I have seen them in various hardware stores. They go by the name of “Wobble Wedges” and they are made of hard plastic (pictured) or more of a rubbery material that probably wouldn’t serve the purpose as well. According to what I see online, both Lowe’s and Amazon carries them. https://wobblewedges.com/ An alternative might be the thin wedge-shaped shims used in carpentry that are also available in hardware stores. They were traditionally made of wood, but in recent times I’ve gotten some made of a sort of plastic-like composition material that would probably be less compressible. They come in a package of 10-12, and would have to be cut down because they’re so much larger than the Wobble Wedge, but they would work. ► 6.4/93.6 | |||
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