Picked up a new to me P229 with what looks like factory torx grip screws. This was an early red box in red plastic case. T25 is too big and T20 is too small. Anyone know for sure what size this takes. I tried the T20 as it had a little bit of purchase but they are in too tight and I didn't want to take a chance on messing them up.

See pic at this link: https://postimg.cc/gallery/xSKL4kG (click on pic to see full size)

There is nothing between T20 and T25, near as I can tell.

Your photo link is "404 Not found"

Either a 20 or 25.
Are you sure it's a torx and not a 3/32" hex bit?

quote:

Originally posted by powermad:
Either a 20 or 25.
Are you sure it's a torx and not a 3/32" hex bit?

That's what I was wondering.

I've seen hex fasteners that at first blush looked like star fasteners. (N.B.: Torx™ is a trademarked brand name. Not all star fasteners and tools are Torx™ brand.)

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:
There is nothing between T20 and T25, near as I can tell.

Your photo link is "404 Not found"

I fixed the link so it should work now. To me it looks like a star bit.
I've tried all my hex keys (metric and standard) and nothing fits. I think it takes a metric star bit other than Torx. Just hoping someone on the Forum would have had some previous experience with it.

That's a Torx type fastener.

I would try another bit.
My sets only have 15,20,25 etc.
Regular and tamper resistant.

The screws may not be sized right as well.

quote:

Originally posted by powermad:
That's a Torx type fastener.

I would try another bit.
My sets only have 15,20,25 etc.
Regular and tamper resistant.

The screws may not be sized right as well.

Mine only have T20 and T25 with nothing in between and like I said in the original post the T25 is too big and the T20 is too small.

I meant a different brand of bit.
If it's a quality bit then the fastener may not be sized right.

Not all fasteners and bits share the same tolerances.

quote:

Originally posted by les45:
Mine only have T20 and T25 with nothing in between...

Again, as I wrote, earlier: I don't believe there is anything between T20 and T25. At least not according to my brief research.

See: External Torx Size Chart, for example.

quote:

Originally posted by les45:
... and like I said in the original post the T25 is too big and the T20 is too small.

Looking at your photo, I'm suspecting what you may have are badly-abused T20 star screws?

Take a look at your photo, then this. See how pointy and sharp the points of the stars are in those fasteners?

Perhaps your T20 star screw driver is likewise no longer particularly "sharp?"

Also: Before you go applying much muscle to this, ensure your star screw driver isn't a tamper-proof driver. (It'll be hollow in the end, if it is.) Those are more fragile than non-tamper-proof drivers. Unwary users have sometimes broken the ends of tamper-proof drivers off in the screw head.

quote:

Originally posted by powermad:
Not all fasteners and bits share the same tolerances.

There's also that, too.

IP20 Torx Plus

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:
IP20 Torx Plus

Thanks, Freethinker, that is exactly what I needed. I actually had a small set of Torx Plus bits in another tool box that I had almost forgotten about and the 20 fit perfectly. All four screws came out with no problem. Apparently the plus screws have the points rounded a little more which causes the standard T bit to have a little play in it. You learn something new every day.

Way to many fastener types.


I just got a large set from the Mac guy that has bits for stuff I've never ran across.
Looks like I better check what I grabbing.

oops, I did a dupe.

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:
IP20 Torx Plus

Good grief

quote:

Originally posted by powermad:
Way to many fastener types.

Damn straight!

I don’t know much about things like fasteners, but someone must have had a reason for designing and producing an alternative to the “standard” Torx. I wonder if the “Plus” design is less likely to slip and may be better for potential cosmetic reasons if nothing else.

And when I start looking into something like this I have a tendency to focus on details like nomenclature. Like those pictured, my bits are marked “20IP,” but when I checked the Internet there were references to “IP20.” I suppose it doesn’t matter as long as it’s obvious that both markings refer to the same thing, but it’s something I wonder about.

It looks like they can handle more torque before stripping out.

I knew I had seen that plus type somewhere.
In the Horton Drivemaster fan clutch the center bolt is a Torx Plus.
The rebuild kits come with a bit to service them.
A 7/16" hex drive TP55.
Using a T55 will strip it out, the TP55 usually has an 18" handle 1/2" drive breaking them loose.

Bumping an old post because the Sig website FAILS to mention this important information about the "correct" tool that is required.

https://www.sigsauer.com/grip-...0-357-nylok-blk.html

Just like the OP, I found the T20 was a bit loose while the T25 was too BIG. I also noticed the the socket feature on the grip screw was just a tad different than the more common TORX I was used to seeing. I have literally driven thousands of TORX screws for various construction jobs I have done.

Why Sig could not use something more common for a low torque application is beyond me.

Thanks