My slide pin is solid with domed ends and acts like it’s WELDED in.
I’ve been banging on the right side of the pin like an ape and I’m about to lose my shit.
Flat tip punch has already slipped off causing just a *hint* of a scratch. (Got lucky)
The only cup tip punch I can find online is from Brownells for $25.
Top Gun- discontinued
Midway- never heard of it
Did cup tip punches go the way of the Dodo?

I thought maybe some Kroil might help but no dice!

Some of those pins are near impossible to move. I always used a shorty cup tip punch, but didn’t realize they’re now rare. A machine shop may be able to press it out. Good luck!

As I recall the size of the cup tip punch used for the pins was 3mm. SIG used to sell two lengths, including a short one to get things started. Long ago on a tour of the SIG factory there was a HUGE arbor press in one work area and I’ve always assumed it was for those pins. Again, it’s been some time, but I seem to remember that Grayguns just drills them out, or did.

Items 7 and 8
A short and long 3mm cup punch.
https://www.brownells.com/tool...nches/?sku=080620300

quote:

Originally posted by sigfreund:
As I recall the size of the cup tip punch used for the pins was 3mm. SIG used to sell two lengths, including a short one to get things started.

“SIG used to sell” being the key phrase.

quote:

Originally posted by powermad:
Items 7 and 8
A short and long 3mm cup punch.

Got one on the way…$25 with shipping.
I never bothered with buying one when seemingly everybody had them for sale. All my German SIGs used roll pins and I’m well stocked for those.
Even with the correct punch, I’m not sure this thing will move.
I’m loading up on bananas to go ape again when the punch gets here later this week. I’ll give it one more shot and if that doesn’t work either say F-it or send the slide to SIG and have them deal with it!

Edit to add:
I bought this gun used (cop trade in) a few years ago. It sat in my safe and I finally got around to detail stripping it. There was grease crammed EVERYWHERE along with a good amount of carbon mixed in. I really want to clean out the FP channel and change its spring since I’m refreshing all the others. Best I can do right now is generous amounts of gun scrubber.
I want to shoot this one because the frame rail anodizing is in much better shape than my other guns.
The folded slide German guns have been shot a LOT.

My old P229 duty gun has a decent sized scratch on the slide where our armorer at the time tried to get that pin out (far from the only scratch on that gun!). He was doing routine maintenance on all the guns, and despite herculean efforts he could not get my slide pin to budge. Iirc, he soaked it in Kroil, used a BFH, and even tried pressing it out, but there was no getting it to move at all. He got them out of all the other guns, just not mine.

I now own that gun, and I haven't tried to mess with it. It shoots fine (I've done the gun scrubber down the firing pin channel a few times, just because), and until it doesn't I'm just not willing to fight that fight. Some day it may come to that, and when it does I'll have to cross that bridge. I own a shop press and a drill press, so I'll figure something out if I have to, but for now it gets to stay.

The saga continues…
BFH, correct punch, taped up slide. Beat me daddy 8 to the bar, (apologies to Commander Cody).
Nada, zilch. Just started to deform the punch, stopped because it’s obvious that it WON’T budge.

After I get bored with just shooting the bejeezus out of it, I may send it to SIG.
Replace solid with a roll pin(s) please.

Yeah, I've mushroomed many punches and that pin. It's just not worth trying to get that pin out yourself. Send it in to sig for that. Crazy, how they designed those older German sigs, being so difficult to get those pins out.

Send it to Sig is good advice.

If you really want to do it yourself, drill a hole on a piece of 2x4, place it on a concrete floor and use a five pound sledge.

Momentum is your friend.

Good luck.

LOL I don’t think my punch would hold up to that!

If using a padded jaw vise, position the slide so the pin is close to the jaws so your off hand can hold the cup punch in-line, with your hand resting on the vise to hold it steady. ONLY hit the pin once. Check punch position. Hit again harder, again just once each time, repeat hitting will surely have the punch slip off and then damage slide. A good size hammer is fine, just ramp up slowly. I have a 10 ton electric over hydraulic Sunnen BP-10 that I've never had to use - though I'm sure it would drive any pin!

https://i.imgur.com/kVcUVvX.jpg

If dry fired a lot, without snap caps, the solid pins deform. Metal is displaced by the firing pin strikes and burrs form. The burrs make it difficult to impossible to remove with a punch and hammer. Let SIG handle the impossible ones.

I had a couple pins crack in my P220ST. I agree that firing without snap caps will break that pin.
I always felt it was harmonics that cracked the pins.

For dry firing, I use half a foam earplug stuffed in on the back of the firing pin to absorb the energy of the hammer.

I think the Robert Burke (The Sig Armorer) does the same.

Are the slides that use this solid pin drilled different than the slides that use the roll pins?

I am not real familiar with the 226 setup, but I see the P229 milled slides of all three variations tend to have mostly the roll pin with some 40/357 legacy short extractors having the solid pin.

Thanks

No milled slides have roll pins like the folded slides if that is what you meant by roll pin.

Are you 100% certain you are driving it out in the correct direction? I recall those being one-way pins with one end slightly larger than the other.

I have one of the short cup-tipped punches made just for this if you want to borrow it.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
No milled slides have roll pins like the folded slides if that is what you meant by roll pin.

Thanks for catching that I missed the proper call out "spiral roll pin". I was referring to the two types of factory Sig pins that were used on the milled slides. One being the solid pin and the other being spiral roll pin.

I only have one very late model milled slide in hand that is currently bare and I notice the holes on both sides of slide are the exact same with the left side of slide having an additional very shallow bore slightly bigger which might be for the splined end of the solid pin?

Are the slides made for the solid pin exactly as I describe above? Or do those slides made for solid pins actually have a bigger hole on left side all the way through the left side?

Thanks