"No big deal" or "call your gunsmith"?

I've detail stripped a couple of my old German P series pistols - a P6 and a 226. I have the correct punches, a block, 5lb hammer if necessary.

Trigger replacement for the 238 looks like a cake walk - but some folks have complained about getting the trigger pin out. There's some disagreement on whether it's tapered or not.

Only a few YouTube vids...

In IDP Tactical's video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjtTZTKGn3g - it all looks pretty straight forward - except he removes the pin from left to right.
If my memory's serves me - removal from right to left is conventional for all SIGs - correct?

The Galloway Precision video shows them using a drill press. Nice, yes - but necessary?

Advice, tips, tricks and opinions from anyone who's performed this operation would be greatly appreciated.

Easy to do. Cupped tip punch required to keep the punch from walking on to the frame. Pin is not tapered but needs to be removed from correct side. I'll see if i can find the best video I had and post a link. I've done 5 or 6, including the 938, which has the same parts.

Here is the video i use, from Glen at Tillamook Precision, where i purchased my replacement triggers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh2v_-87DRM

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Johnny 3eagles,

Thanks for the video link Johnny!

I've realized that I may not have the correct punch... Actually I'm not sure what I need.
I've got a Brownell's 3mm cupped tip punch that's perfect for most SIGs but my old eyes tell me that's at least a half a mm too big for the 238.

In Lindscheid's video he says a Stanley 1/32nd nail punch will do the trick!? As a former carpenter I have plenty of nail punches (They're all pretty buggered up... I'll buy new for this project if necessary) - but the 1/16th" looks like a better fit to me and I'm a little nervous about getting a conical punch stuck in or damaging the frame.

1/16" Translates to 1.5875mm. Maybe the Brownell's 'Model 1' - 1.44mm long length will work or the 'Model 2" - 1.7mm...

What say you?

Can you recommend a brand/source and optimal size 'CT' punch?

I have a bunch of broken punches that I have squared off and now use as starter punches. The 238/938 trigger pin can be a real bitch, but a short, stout punch just to get the pin moving is what you need. Once it starts, you're home free.

What he said. I once used a nail set punch to get the pin started.

Just got the first trigger swapped out!
2 to go, another 238 and a 938.

Sometimes a little encouragement goes a long way!

Thanks guys!!!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: HawkeyeJohn,

I put the P938 frame in the vise with the trigger pin just above the padded jaws. This allows one to rest the punch holding hand on the vise to aid in alignment and to keep it steady. Only one whack at a time prevents a whack if the punch tip slips off.


Starrett cupped punches are expensive, but top quality. I made a dedicated punch by grinding off the taper of the punch to about 3/16 back from the tip - this helps to prevent the tapered shaft of the nail set from swaging and enlarging the outer edge of the frame hole - easier to stop as the pin starts to move - then switch to a straight shaft cup tip punch (Brownell's).

I have a Sunnen BT-10 hydraulic pin punch, but have never bothered to use is as it's at my machine shop 9 miles away - - sigh :c(