Can this part and spring be removed and the pistol still fire properly? How about a Shield with a thumb safety? If no one knows, I'll test it myself.

Are you talking about removing the firing pin block and spring? This isn't a series 70/80 1911 issue where it's safe to run without one. I don't think anyone would conscientiously recommend removing those.

No offense intended, but... If I knew the answer to both, I wouldn't want to post it on a public forum.

I do my own action and repair work on my Sigs and 1911's. IMO, it's not advisable to encourage a fellow shooter to alter or remove a factory safety feature from a handgun. Especially if the gun in question is for SD.

I'm no legal liability freak. However, I've never thought it wise to make life easy for prosecutors or tort lawyers.

Why the hell would you want to?

I have no Shield experience, but I have never felt a P226 that has what I would consider an objectionable single action pull. The additional spring tension from the safety will be negligible compared to the hammer spring tension in double action.

I asked if it was possible for the pistol to operate without the FPB.
"Yes, No and I don't know" are answers that address the question asked. I got a safety lecture. Jeez.

It must have been a slow day lecturing Jaywalkers...

WRT to the SIG, having taken many of them apart, I'm pretty sure you can remove the firing pin block and have the weapon still function.

I'm pretty sure with newer S&W MPs with safeties, they will send you the replacement parts to delete it.

Lecturing Jaywalkers. HA.

P226: IIRC, the FPB also retains the FP by blocking the FP's rearward travel. Without it, the FP will jump out the back. IIRC, to remove the FP, one must first remove the FPB. Then the FP just shoots out the rear.

Shield: Similar thing. You cannot remove the striker assembly (striker, plastic sleeve and springs) without depressing the FPB with your third hand.

The thumb safety is a different part altogether.

Well, I'll just have to try it and report back.

What is the purpose of your experiment?

Such mods are certainly not recommended or a safe thing to do.

You can end up in a situation where the trigger may have enough inertia in a drop to discharge the pistol.

quote:

P226: IIRC, the FPB also retains the FP by blocking the FP's rearward travel. Without it, the FP will jump out the back. IIRC, to remove the FP, one must first remove the FPB. Then the FP just shoots out the rear.

The firing pin is also retained by the firing pin positioning pin (or roll pins), so your questionable mod will probably work.

quote:

Originally posted by cne32507:
I asked if it was possible for the pistol to operate without the FPB.
"Yes, No and I don't know" are answers that address the question asked. I got a safety lecture. Jeez.

Please keep in mind that this is the internet. I don't know who you are, how much experience you have, or how competent you are handling firearms. Someone comes on asking a question about a mod that I think would be unsafe, my first reaction is to say, "I don't recommend it, it's unsafe." You may handle things differently.

quote:

P226: IIRC, the FPB also retains the FP by blocking the FP's rearward travel. Without it, the FP will jump out the back. IIRC, to remove the FP, one must first remove the FPB. Then the FP just shoots out the rear.

Totally news to me. The notch on the firing pin stops in the rearward position against the FPP or roll pin/s.

quote:

Originally posted by GaryBF:

quote:

P226: IIRC, the FPB also retains the FP by blocking the FP's rearward travel. Without it, the FP will jump out the back. IIRC, to remove the FP, one must first remove the FPB. Then the FP just shoots out the rear.

The firing pin is also retained by the firing pin positioning pin (or roll pins), so your questionable mod will probably work.

You are correct, Gary and Stoic. I was wrong. I should have just looked at my pistol before spouting off.

I removed the FPB, tested the pull, shot a cap. The pistol functions normally. The pull is only slightly better: no creep. How do I describe it: no trigger travel with resistance, however slight. Take up the free pull and bang. My P226 SSE had a trigger job by Gray Guns, so it's trigger is very smooth. I replaced the FPB and tested again. I could tell a slight difference as a very light creep as the safety block moved. Not enough to matter for my booger hook.

I did an experiment last week. My normal target load is 4.7 grains Tite Group and 125 grain MG. After 100 rds I start to lose a smooth pull and start jerking. I installed a 9mm (14#) recoil spring and loaded some low power loads. 3.8g was as low as it would cycle. But boy, what a big difference in recoil with this very heavy pistol. This is what prompted me to ask the question.

As to safety: despite what my wife says, I am not an idiot. I would never carry a pistol with any safety devices removed. Target shooting is another matter. FPB's have only been popular since Glock stormed our shores. What did semi auto shooters do before 1986? Now all new pistols must have them and I'm fine with that. I have a 1970's Hi Standard Duramatic that never had a FPB. The trigger is sooo fine. But I would never carry it. My P226 is a range/bedside pistol. My 9mm Shield is the carry pistol.