I
bought a Barsto semi=fit barrel for my 10mm. Semi=fit is a loose term compared to the other semi fits Ive gotten over the years. At any rate, I would like to fit this barrel myself. I have well above average metal working skills and a lot of experience building BR rifles.
I would like to know if there are suitable publications covering the fitting of this barrel. Any help would b appreciated at this time---Rogn

You don't mention in your post what type of pistol you will be fitting your new barrel into, other that it's chambered in 10mm.
My personal experience is that fitting a SIG barrel is easier than fitting a barrel into a 1911/2011 pistol.
Several hours watching YouTube videos will show you where metal "may" need to be removed for a SIG pistol barrel install.
1911/2011, CZ, EAA barrel fitting "may" require specialized barrel fitting tools. (lug cutters and/or centering fixturing)
SIG/GLOCK will usually only require files/stones.

Here is a document in the Barsto archives that shows where metal "may" need to be removed on a semi-fit Barsto barrel. Also, where metal should NOT be removed.
https://barsto.com/2019/12/04/fitting-sheet/

Sorry, broke a couple of ribs last week don't think too well at the moment. Its a P220 SS Elite

I seem to recall Bruce Gray posting in one of the threads on the P220 10mm, that in his opinion SIG got the P220 10mm exactly right as far as slide mass, spring rates, and barrel fit.
In most cases when making your own franken-SIG P220 10mm, (swapping slides and barrels onto different frames) it wouldn't assemble without swapping the locking insert along with the other parts.
So while you "may" see better accuracy with your new semi-fit Barsto barrel, I would be surprised if "you" can see any difference compared with the factory barrel. Especially with iron sights.
Small dot sized red dot sight or telescopic (magnifying optic sight) may be a different situation with a benefit going with the Barsto semi-fit barrel.

The major reason for the6: Barsto is the draconian rquirement of the PR of THE Eastern Shore of MD To have a 6" barrel for. deer hunting. I have been able with the OEM barrel to get abs 25%0f my 3 shot groups under 4". a fe have been smaller. nota defensive gun, But ACCURATE!

BarSto sells a DVD on fitting and such and I also used a video from our moderator on this section of the forum. Between the two I was able to (with no previous knowledge or skill related to barrels) fit my BarSto 9mm Conversion barrel (on a .40 cal 239SAS). It works well and has caused me no issues.
I just took it very slow and paid attention to where the videos said the most common areas are for problems to happen. (speaking to my lack of knowledge ) I don't know the name - hood maybe ? but the flat part on top of the barrel was where mine needed the most attention. It was a little too large to fit perfectly into the cutout in the slide.

Edit: just looked up videos on google. BarSto Precision from their website. The other is a Sig video on gunsmithing by Chris O. and another guy. Available at Sig website.

SBbrooks andSee_Kamp, Ive been trying to fid the sites to order th DVD or access the video. Please. advise. Rogn

I did a Bar-Sto semi-fit 9mm conversion barrel for my stainless P226 in .40 cal.

I used only a mill file (smooth) to fit the locking flat (#4 on the Bar-Sto diagram) height. After removing a coupla' thousandths of an inch at a time I realized I'd also need to remove some from the locking surface (#1 on the diagram) of the underlug, since it was hitting the locking block.

Here's where I judged I'd need to figure some dimensions. I used a light dab of lipstick on the top of the locking flat until I got a witness mark inside the top of the slide. I also measured the depth dimension from the underside of the slide to the barrel with both the original & conversion barrels just for relative comparison. From there I gradually, SLOWLY removed a little at a time from the underlug, and as I did so eventually got to a point where the slide would go on with the slightest rub, and eventually just barely a touch as exhibited by a witness mark on the locking surface of the underlug. At that point I ever so slightly deburred the edges. Some guys use a stone, but mine had a little more material to remove than I'd prefer to stone off. About .004" on the height of the locking flat & about .008" on the underlug.

I locks up nicely.

Disclaimer: I am one of the most methodical & capable people I know when using a file. BUT if you're not slow & careful you could go wrong in a hurry.

ETA: I used the fitting sheet cee_Kamp cited above.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: vinnybass,

I'm not having any success locating any Armorer DVD's that are in stock which show relevant information on barrel fitting.
The Bar-Sto DVD on barrel fitting may be discontinued.
Perhaps Chris Orndorff can tell you how to locate his DVD if it has relevant barrel fitting information.

This Bar-Sto document shows where metal may be removed, and also where metal should not be removed when doing barrel fitting. https://barsto.com/2019/12/04/fitting-sheet/

Also, here are several YouTube videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enj_EPTSmy8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YwqWBA9neY

For the record, my dvd is no longer available but it didn’t address barrel fitting anyway. Vinny’s description above (lipstick?? ) is pretty thorough. I’ve only fit one SIG barrel, and it required a lot less attention than Vinny’s.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Orndorff:
(lipstick?? )

LOL, It's greasepaint. I started using it years ago in place of hi-spot blue. It works as well, is easier to use and clean up, and doesn't get all over everything.