SIGforum
A revival of the Watch thread

This topic can be found at:
https://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9666031561/m/6290029643

January 12, 2021, 06:54 AM
stickman428
A revival of the Watch thread
It’s going to be more accurate but also more $$$ to service. I wish Breitling had more display case backs to showcase their beautiful movements. When I was considering buying a Tudor Black Bay I was actually leaning towards the earlier “smiley text” dial version with the ETA movement even though it isn’t as accurate simply because service work would be easier and cheaper on the ETA movement. I’ve heard very good things about Tudor’s in-house movements.


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The price of liberty and even of common humanity is eternal vigilance
January 12, 2021, 02:29 PM
BrianO
quote:
Originally posted by stickman428: I’ve heard very good things about Tudor’s in-house movements.

In watchmaking school we used a variety of movements during the two years of training, but during the final test administered by WOSTEP representatives from Switzerland we used Tudors for the automatic section of the test. They were very nice indeed.
January 12, 2021, 04:02 PM
Mars_Attacks
How close to the Rolex 3135 are they?


____________________________

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January 12, 2021, 05:46 PM
BrianO
quote:
Originally posted by Mars_Attacks:
How close to the Rolex 3135 are they?

The Tudors we used (this was 20 years ago) were modified ETA 2824 movements, but modified by Tudor with a KIF versus Incabloc antishock system, and a different balance cock with a Triovis fine adjustment mechanism versus the standard ETA one.

The Rolex 3135 has a larger diameter (28.5mm versus 25.6), 31 jewels versus 25, a different balance wheel with Rolex's Microstella balance screws for poising, and an antimagnetic Blue Parachrom hairspring. It also has a 48-hour versus 38-hour power reserve.

So, similar but different.
January 12, 2021, 10:01 PM
Snapping Twig
IIRC, the Tudor has a free sprung balance with a form of microstella adjustment too.

Does the Tudor have a Breguet overcoil like the 3135/3235?
January 12, 2021, 11:06 PM
P220 Smudge
Well. It looks like I'll end up having to change some watch batteries, and perhaps may even end up needing to take advantage of Omega's service plan at some point. Perhaps even twice. We'll see. Smile

So I guess the question now is which version? I truly, honestly do not mind the idea of a quartz watch, and the movement in the 2541.80 is probably more accurate than any quartz watch I own or have owned. Still, I know, it's quartz. So that leaves the automatic versions, the 2531.80 and the 2220.80.00. I get that the co-axial is better and can go longer between services; if I decide to pony up for an automatic version, should I just try to find the newer one with the co-axial movement?

I'd be lying if I didn't say I'm also suddenly leaning very hard towards finding a very nice 2541.80 for a fair price, and then grab a few other nice pieces instead of putting all into one basket. I'd really like to also try out a Sinn 104, Squale 1521, Steinhart Ocean One, Doxa Sub 200, and various Seikos and Glycines; just because I can.

Decisions, decisions. Thankfully, as I'm reminded every time I glance at my wrist, I've been given the gift of time.

Can't stop looking at pictures of these.



______________________________________________
Carthago delenda est
January 13, 2021, 12:19 AM
BrianO
quote:
Originally posted by Snapping Twig:
IIRC, the Tudor has a free sprung balance with a form of microstella adjustment too.

It's been a long time, so I may be confused, but if I recall the Tudors we had didn't have any screws, Microstella or otherwise, to poise the balance wheels, but rather we used drill bits to remove small amounts of metal from the heavy spots.

[Edit to add:] I just found a good photo that shows the balance wheel on a Tudor of the type I was talking about, and it shows that there are no screws on the balance wheel. See:
January 13, 2021, 01:17 AM
BrianO
By the way, for any readers for whom all this talk of "poising" and "Microstella" and such sounds like so much Greek (and it is, actually: Microstella is derived from the Greek for "small star"): poising is the process of adjusting the weighting of the balance wheel to be equal all around the wheel, and the Microstella system is Rolex's patented system of placing tiny, star-shaped nuts on tiny bolts on the inside of the rim of the balance. Most other watches use small screws on the outside of the rim, or have no adjustment mechanisms at all.
January 13, 2021, 06:34 AM
stickman428
P220 Smudge the older Seamaster variants with the wavy dial are my favorite. If you like how thin a Glycine Combat Sub feels on the wrist you will LOVE how thin and comfortable the Seamaster also feels. The newer versions have gotten a bit thicker but the improved movement and display caseback makes up for that. The way the light catches the waves on the dial is also pretty damn cool.


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The price of liberty and even of common humanity is eternal vigilance
January 13, 2021, 07:16 AM
Mars_Attacks
quote:
Originally posted by BrianO:
quote:
Originally posted by Mars_Attacks:
How close to the Rolex 3135 are they?

The Tudors we used (this was 20 years ago) were modified ETA 2824 movements, but modified by Tudor with a KIF versus Incabloc antishock system, and a different balance cock with a Triovis fine adjustment mechanism versus the standard ETA one.

The Rolex 3135 has a larger diameter (28.5mm versus 25.6), 31 jewels versus 25, a different balance wheel with Rolex's Microstella balance screws for poising, and an antimagnetic Blue Parachrom hairspring. It also has a 48-hour versus 38-hour power reserve.

So, similar but different.


The new Tudor in-house are a completely new movement that look very much like the 3135 or more like the new 3235 Rolex movements.

They are light years different from the ETA supplied embauches.







____________________________

Eeewwww, don't touch it!
Here, poke at it with this stick.
January 13, 2021, 10:15 AM
jhe888
I do not know, but I imagine the Tudor movements would be similar to Rolex's movements. They are the same company, after all, and it seems natural that they would share engineering, and perhaps have some parts in common.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: jhe888,




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January 13, 2021, 02:03 PM
BrianO
quote:
Originally posted by Mars_Attacks:
The new Tudor in-house are a completely new movement that look very much like the 3135 or more like the new 3235 Rolex movements. They are light years different from the ETA supplied embauches.

Interesting. They use regular screws on the outside of the wheel rather than Microstella screws on the inside, but by putting "coves" at four points on the wheel the screws don't protrude beyond the circumference of the wheel.
January 13, 2021, 05:15 PM
Leeann
quote:
Originally posted by P220 Smudge:
Well. It looks like I'll end up having to change some watch batteries, and perhaps may even end up needing to take advantage of Omega's service plan at some point. Perhaps even twice. We'll see. Smile



Well, that sounds much better than the initial news.


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January 13, 2021, 10:40 PM
Snapping Twig
Reading on TRF, my understanding is when you send in your Tudor BB58 (new Rolex movement) they do not service it, rather, they replace it with another already serviced movement.

Seems funky to me.

If this is so, and I believe it is, then you have to go through regulation all over again as opposed to letting them know your wear habits and the error rate to get it relatively right off the bat.
January 14, 2021, 07:02 AM
stickman428
The Omega fans among us will probably enjoy this article. Smile Iconic Omega Watches

This is a huge reason why I pulled the trigger on my Seamaster. Too bad the one used in Goldeneye (my favorite Bond film) was a Quartz. Bond got an upgrade in the next film. Cool

This message has been edited. Last edited by: stickman428,


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The price of liberty and even of common humanity is eternal vigilance
January 14, 2021, 01:46 PM
BigSwede
Hello Gents,

What can you tell me about Spinnaker? I'm eyeballing this watch. Is it worth the four bills?

https://www.longislandwatch.co...tch_p/sp-5081-33.htm

Measuring 44mm in diameter and a thickness of 15mm, the watch offers 300m of Water Resistance in a relatively compact body made of marine-grade stainless steel. The scratch-resistant AR sapphire crystal lens offers durability and clarity of view. The bezel serves to frame the crisp white dial featuring round and rectangular hour markers topped with Swiss SuperLuminova for increased low light legibility. The oversized minute hands, serve the watch as a clear readout of time elapsed, making it a unique piece of diver instrumentation.

A precise, workhorse NH35 TMI Seiko automatic self-winding movement sits inside the Dumas, with its inner mechanics visible via the exhibition caseback. The Dumas comes with a sturdy & robust Milanese mesh strap that can easily be adjusted to fit your wrist.



January 14, 2021, 05:00 PM
vthoky
quote:
Originally posted by vthoky:
I'm still wanting to get my hands on a Seiko SKX007J.

Anyone here dealt with Creation Watches? Seems they're based in Singapore; I don't know if that really means anything one way or another.


Anyone?




God bless America.
January 15, 2021, 01:45 AM
wildheartedson0105
vthoky, I did some digging, and found that particular model is discontinued, and other than ebay and amazon sellers, Creation is the only place with an independent website.

While digging, apparantely Creation may be "grey market". Supposedly authentic, but not an authorized dealer.

What stands out to me, is Creation is in Singapore. The SKX007J is the Japan model with a couple of cosmetic differences from the 007K, which was assembled in... Singapore.

So, you may get the real deal J, or a K. Only big flag, to me, is that places like Jomashop and Island Watch are sold out, while Creation isn't.

Good luck, brother. I keep looking for the elusive, discontinued Seiko I love.


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Dei. Familia. Patria. Victoria.

Don't back up, don't back down.
January 15, 2021, 10:09 AM
vthoky
Thank you, wildhearted, it looks like you've done about the same research I've done. You've got a good point on the J model being available in a market where the K model is "native."

I've seen the J available on Amazon, but... well... it's Amazon. I just can't convince myself to grab it.

There are some used/rebuilt ones out there, too, but I'm a little chicken about going that route.




God bless America.
January 15, 2021, 11:28 AM
Oz_Shadow
I really need to stop looking at all these watches. I thought guitar collecting was expensive. I really love my Oris but it's been kind of like a gateway drug.