The lug profile on the new Submariners is thinner like the original Subs.

Much improved IMO.

Also has the 3235 which is great!

quote:

Originally posted by Snapping Twig:
The lug profile on the new Submariners is thinner like the original Subs.

Much improved IMO.

Also has the 3235 which is great!

Agreed, much improved.

quote:

Originally posted by jhe888:

quote:

Originally posted by Snapping Twig:
The lug profile on the new Submariners is thinner like the original Subs.

Much improved IMO.

Also has the 3235 which is great!

Agreed, much improved.

Possibly an improvement to the watch, or possibly just a trade-off shifting one issue for another. I'll have to see it in the metal. Great comment on TZ: “Just me I guess being picky, but has what it's lost off the shoulders been put on around the waist?”. I think possibly. And I love NATOs, but good luck finding high quality 21mm NATOs. Still, I'm intrigued. It could be phenomenal.

quote:

Originally posted by r0gue:
I think possibly. And I love NATOs, but good luck finding high quality 21mm NATOs.

Would these not count?

https://www.crownandbuckle.com....html?strap_width=92

quote:

Originally posted by P220 Smudge:

quote:

Originally posted by r0gue:
I think possibly. And I love NATOs, but good luck finding high quality 21mm NATOs.

Would these not count?

https://www.crownandbuckle.com....html?strap_width=92

I'll be damned. And in fact, those are THE exact (and only) NATOs I use. I have the cypress on my Sub right now.

Yeah, I read back a ways into the thread and saw your post recommending them. There was a YouTube video I watched recently that said they had introduced some of the less common sizes into the line. I guess this is a recent development.

quote:

Originally posted by P220 Smudge:
Yeah, I read back a ways into the thread and saw your post recommending them. There was a YouTube video I watched recently that said they had introduced some of the less common sizes into the line. I guess this is a recent development.

I begged them for a 19mm back when I owned an SLA017 62MAS². They said there was no demand. I tried to explain that there were a LOT of 19mm watches coming out. By the time they'd come out with it, I'd sold mine. Dang! I wonder if 21s will be the new 20s going forward, as all follow the plumping trend. Yuck.

I felt sick to my stomach when I wrecked my favorite Samurai’s bezel and insert a few weeks ago. Turns out it was a good thing because it got me to mod my Samurai, which I would never have done otherwise. I like this mod with its ceramic insert and big tooth bezel more than the original. Long Island watches sells high quality mod parts.

This also fixed the ever so slight factory bezel insert misalignment which was bugging the hell out of me. I got his baby aligned perfectly.

Well done Stickman!

quote:

Originally posted by r0gue:
I wonder if 21s will be the new 20s going forward, as all follow the plumping trend. Yuck.

I found myself wondering earlier today what kind of impact the new Sub being a 21 would have. I figured between the wait list and the low availability, that it might not be much. Then again, I've heard that the Rolex Submariner is the most copied watch design ever and plenty of copies, homages, and other brands that take design cues from Rolex may just go ahead and start putting out more watches with 21mm lug width. If there's already a trend towards bigger watches (I haven't been paying attention long enough to have any observations about trends), then this may mean more of that.

Stickman, I'm really digging how that Seiko turned out. Lately I've found myself wanting a diver with an orange dial and you went and posted pictures of yours. I think for my budget, an Aragon is probably what's going to happen. Seems like they make a pretty good watch, albeit most often pretty massive. Their Divemaster 42 looks like it may be just the ticket. Either that, or just assemble one myself.

I'm finding myself really wanting to tinker. I did this with guitars as well, got really interested right off the bat with adjusting and modifying the hardware, which led me down a career path through early adulthood. I'm sick of the music industry and the people in it, and I'm at the right age and time in my life to go back to school and do something new that dovetails with the fine detail work aspects of my former jobs. The idea of maybe working on watches all day actually really appeals to me. I'm going to continue to look into it and do research.

Love the lume and pattern on the new bezel Stickman. Nicely done.

Michael

Thanks guys! My Orange Seiko went from being one of my favs to being wrecked and left alone for a few weeks as I figured out what to do with it. Now that it’s modded and better than ever it is back on my wrist regularly.



Now for something completely different. Quick question. Does the Valjoux 7750 have much of a break in period? What kind of accuracy do you get from your Valjoux 7750? I’ve read that some movements will run faster/slower than normal for a few weeks or even a month as the movement breaks in. I suppose there are a lot of variables to consider but I wonder if there is a benefit to wearing a watch for a few months before sending it in to be regulated?

I wasn’t expecting the Valjoux 7750 to have unidirectional winding it almost reminds me of a Miyota 9015 movement when the rotor gets to spinning quickly after it’s spun in one direction for too long.

All watches should be worn for a month before regulation.

That said, some break in and change, some don't change.

My 206 didn't change. 10+/day, sent it back to the mothership for regulation and now it is 4+/day.

I wish they went 1 ~ 2 +/day, it is certainly capable of it, but it wasn't to be.

I set it 1 minute slow at the beginning of the month and it is 1 minute fast at the end of the month.

7750 comes in several iterations, the top and chronometer being better in every respect - materials and construction, add to that they are decorated.

My eyes have been opened by how durable and accurate the top grade 7750 is.

I've said here before, automatic watches both fascinate and irritate me. I absolutely love them from the mechanical standpoint, and it irks me that I have to dink with them whenever I pick one up to wear it. (Yes, I know, watch winders....)

That aside, my Seiko Sea Urchin bugs the crap out of me. With a stated power reserve of 40-ish hours, I figure I can take it off when I get home today and put it back on when I leave for work tomorrow without having to adjust it. Nuh-uh, not so. The best I seem to get is about 9 hours after wearing before it stops. What gives?

My Samurai doesn't behave that way... I can easily get a day or so out of it. That's still not the 40-ish, but when I choose that one for the week I don't have to dink with it every morning.

First world problems, I know.

vthoky, I think you would LOVE the Tissot Seastar or new Hamilton divers & field watches. The power reserve on the newest models is just mind blowing. The ETA caliber 80 movement inside both of those watches absolutely destroys all Seiko Divers in the same price category. 80 hour power reserve (mine lasts longer than 80 hrs) and dang good consistency and accuracy right out of the box.

I love Seiko but Hamilton and Tissot are kicking their ass in the $400-800 dive watch segment.


I read in a Helm manual I think it was that it takes roughly 50 winds of the crown to fully charge the power reserve on Seiko’s 4R35 movement that is in your Samurai. Best way to know for sure if there is any reserve issues or if it’s just not getting enough movement is to wind it 50 times, record the time and then set it down and wait for the reserve to die.

quote:

Originally posted by vthoky:...With a stated power reserve of 40-ish hours, I figure I can take it off when I get home today and put it back on when I leave for work tomorrow without having to adjust it. Nuh-uh, not so. The best I seem to get is about 9 hours after wearing before it stops. What gives?

It depends on how active you are while wearing it, but the 40 hour figure is from a full wind, as stickman428 wrote, and you may not ever be getting it up to full wind.

I understand about automatics needing a bunch of activity to keep them going -- I grin thinking about it, remembering my grandfather's disdain for his automatic (a Waltham, if I remember right). The truth was that he wasn't active enough to keep it going.

I'm relatively active during the day -- engineer in a production environment. I'm up and about a good bit, though surely not in motion as much as our crew leaders.

One of the key things for me in this is the head-to-head comparison between my Samurai and my Sea Urchin. I can wear the Samurai for a week, and it'll be ready for me on Monday morning. I can wear the Sea Urchin for a week, and it'll stand still by lunchtime Saturday.

- - - -

Stickman, you for sure know I like my Hamiltons... and now you've got me surfing Hamilton's web site again.

- - - -

That reminds me... on the purely mechanical side, I have a Bulova you and BrianO may enjoy seeing. I'll try to get some pics shortly.

quote:

Originally posted by vthoky:I can wear the Samurai for a week, and it'll be ready for me on Monday morning. I can wear the Sea Urchin for a week, and it'll stand still by lunchtime Saturday.

That does sound like there's a problem. One possibility is that the mainspring is slipping in the barrel, so it never holds a full wind. (To prevent the mainspring from breaking, automatics don't physically attach the spring to the barrel, but use a friction device to hold it tight enough to hold a wind, but loosely enough to slip if over-wound.)

Thank you for the guidance, Brian.
Is that typically a send-it-to-Seiko kind of repair?

For any Seiko related issues the least expensive route (besides fixing it yourself of course) is sending it back to Seiko. They will assess it for free and contact you with their results then you can decide to have them repair it or send it back to you.