Am I doing something wrong? Have it assembled just as the instructions show.

Giving it all I think it can take and bullets are not even budging. I mean 10-12 good wacks at a time.

Instructions say 2-3 hits tops for most bullets.

I'm only out about 35 rounds if it doesn't work, but is it really that difficult?

I went ahead and sprung for the Hornady cam-lock puller.

Hit the hammer against a cement floor (i.e. garage) HARD! Don't just tap it.

quote:

Originally posted by djinco:
Hit the hammer against a cement floor (i.e. garage) HARD! Don't just tap it.

What are you pounding it against? Carpeted floor won't work well. A hard or semi hard surface works best. I use a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet on concrete, never takes more than 3 whacks & that is for heavy crimped rounds.

Otto,
There's a "touch" to it. You have to hold the hammer loosely - it needs a good fast whack but you want the hammer head to bounce back from teh concrete. I hold it with just my thumb and forefinger wrapped not too tight close to the base of the handle, so that it "hinges" at those fingers and can bounce. In fact, when I smack it on the concrete, I let my forearm also come back up to allow the hammer head to bounce as freely as possible.

If you pound like a nail, it won't work. Also, like djinco says, you need to do it on concrete. Wood won't work.

Once you get the nack, it's easy.

Upgrade to a Hornady or RCBS collet puller, you'll wonder why it took you so long to buy one. It's a VAST improvement over impact pullers.

mine paid for itself this weekend when I took ownership of 320 or so badly loaded 9mm bullets that I pulled in about 45 minutes.

I bang mine on a chunk of 2x4 and have rarely had to hit it more than 3 times.

Years back I was told to use a piece of hardwood. I found an old wood plaque and took off the metal facing & tacks. Have been using the same piece for past 25 years. It did break a few years back but still using pieces of it.

T

Loose grip on a hard surface like a concrete floor, or Anvil. Normally only take 1-2 blows for TC or FC. Now if your taking out a roll crimp on 357mag you have to use more force depending on how much roll you put on it.

quote:

Originally posted by psychephylax:
Upgrade to a Hornady or RCBS collet puller, you'll wonder why it took you so long to buy one. It's a VAST improvement over impact pullers.

mine paid for itself this weekend when I took ownership of 320 or so badly loaded 9mm bullets that I pulled in about 45 minutes.

psychephlyax,
I was under the impression the collet pullers mess up the bullet and also that they only work well on rifle bullets. Am I misinformed? Sounds like a less neanderthal method than my rcbs hammer whacking. thx
rod

ps what's a psychephylax?

quote:

Originally posted by OttoSig:
Am I doing something wrong? Have it assembled just as the instructions show.

Giving it all I think it can take and bullets are not even budging. I mean 10-12 good wacks at a time.

Instructions say 2-3 hits tops for most bullets.

I'm only out about 35 rounds if it doesn't work, but is it really that difficult?

I use the end grain of a 6x6 chunk of oak, and have never found anything better, ever.

quote:

Originally posted by rcjohnson:

quote:

Originally posted by psychephylax:
Upgrade to a Hornady or RCBS collet puller, you'll wonder why it took you so long to buy one. It's a VAST improvement over impact pullers.

mine paid for itself this weekend when I took ownership of 320 or so badly loaded 9mm bullets that I pulled in about 45 minutes.

psychephlyax,
I was under the impression the collet pullers mess up the bullet and also that they only work well on rifle bullets. Am I misinformed? Sounds like a less neanderthal method than my rcbs hammer whacking. thx
rod

ps what's a psychephylax?

Only issue w/ collet pullers is they won't work w/ all bullet styles. Impacts work on everything.

If properly adjusted there is very little in terms of damage to the bullet from a collet puller. It essentially creates a small impression where it engages the bullet so maybe i wouldn't use it if i was a benchrest rifle shooter but for practice I wouldn't worry much about any impact on the bullet.

Thanks!

I still want to know what a psychephlax is.... or do I?

quote:

Originally posted by rcjohnson:
Thanks!

I still want to know what a psychephlax is.... or do I?

I am curious too. Does it have something to do with photography maybe??

Thanks for all the help guys, got it working last night using the thumb and forefinger deal and almost limp wristing it.

I would assume you guys reuse all the components right? Nothing wrong with using the powder and brass again?

Should I resize the brass maybe without depriming it?

I do run my disassembled cases through the entire process, but can't see why you would need to resize. You will need to rebell the case.

Yeah! I think you gave the best description of how to use the thing - limp wristing it.

You can use the components just fine unless maybe you overcrimped the heck out of the bullet. In testing crimps on plated I had some real Grand Canyons and decided not to reuse those.

No need to resize - just start with belling, then powder, bullet and crimp.

I invariably however make the mistake of resizing one and pushing out the primer (yikes) which is frustratingly dumb. Also, make sure if on a progressive you don't also try to prime the dang thing. Made that mistake (once) too and fortunately stopped before a had a double primer detonation.

Hard surface and double tap. The double tap bounce.. "whack whack!" It's all in the wrist. You're not driving in framing nails, you want sharp bouncing blows.

Of course the lighter the bullet, the deeper in the case, the harder the crimp... the tougher to get out.

While no one mentioned it yet but I would assume most do it instinctively. The impact head of the bullet puller should be perpendicular to the ground when struck to help remove the bullet from the case. Also make sure the collar is tight. You may have to retighten it after a few whacks.