|On the DL|
I'm learning a lot, as a beginner to reloading. I load 9mm using a Dillon 550.
I noticed that as the level of the powder dropped, in the supply thingy (technical term), I might not get the correct amount of powder.
Dillon folks suggested that I always keep the supply thingy at least half full. 45 Cal mentioned that he adds powder each time he stops to refill the primer feed tube.
Keeping a good amount of powder in the supply thingy does seem to solve the problem for me, but leaves a question: what happens when I approach the end of the powder that I have bought, and maybe want to change the type? Is the remainder, toward the end, a "throw-away?"
I receive daily emails from Amazon, telling me about stuff that I really need, or more accurately, stuff that Amazon really wants me to buy. Today's email included this. It's an eleven dollar gadget that goes into the powder supply thingy and supposedly keeps the amount of powder that is dispensed, consistent from a full thingy to an almost empty thingy.
Does anybody here have any experience with this? Does it work? Or is it "magic snake oil" that has no real function other than lowering the balance in your checking account?
A mind is a terrible thing.
I've found that adding a baffle to the power reservoir does help minimize the variations is thrown charge weight, but it's not a complete fix. Keeping a good head of powder in the reservoir also helps. If you get toward the end of your supply, the best recommendation I would have is to slow your pace just a bit and tap the reservoir once or twice after the slider is pushed in but before it comes back out, to encourage the powder to settle in the cavity better.
My Dillon is a converted RL450 that still has the manual powder charge bar; when I get into that situation I just push the bar in and bump it once or twice before letting it return.
|Shit don't |
How much of a variation are we talking about here? Are these plinking loads? .1 grain or more?
Another vote / suggestion for a baffle. Uniquetek makes a good one. Personally, my powder throws got real consistent with installing this baffle.
Another variable will be powder type. Extruded powders will always have inherent variations.
Just my random thoughts.
Duty is the sublimest word in the English Language - Gen Robert E Lee.
That would be a no,being an old cheep bastard I use it all.Watch each case carefully with that new light thingy you have and toss that last short charge.
I also buy it in 8# jugs and have backup on that also.
Buy extra and try for the same lot # if you are running the one pounders.
|Plowing straight ahead come what may|
My Dillon powder measures seem to have enough of a baffle moulded into the hopper ("supply thingy") to deliver suitable accurate drops with Hodgdon Clays or Alliant Clay Dot, which are the powders I use in 80% of my loading today. I do tap the hopper when it gets close to empty (and I try not to let it get below the built in baffle on the hopper) and the powder charge never gets light enough to lock up an RCBS lockout die I have in station 3 of my upgraded 450 (I do seat and crimp on station 4...it works for me for my CAS revolver loads)...
I've personally never felt a need for another baffle other than the "baffle" Dillon builds in their hopper...
I'm with 45 Cal...I'm a cheap bastard too...I'm going to use every grain
"we've gotta roll with the punches, learn to play all of our hunches
Making the best of what ever comes our way
Forget that blind ambition and learn to trust your intuition
Plowing straight ahead come what may
And theres a cowboy in the jungle"
I never top off my powder reservoir and mine drops within +/- .1 gr of the setting, all the way down. I fill when it is down to about 1/4 full. That +/- good enough for me for pistol loads. It may not be for precision rifle shooting, but I think they'll not be using a progressive as much, either. I've heard some people rub the inside of the thing with a dryer sheet to cut down on static electricity that makes the powder cling. I've found the best solution is to use a ball shaped powder, rather than a flake powder. It flows easier and sticks less. I also ground my powder measure, with a wire run to the electrical service ground (inside of a power strip).
It depends a lot on the powder you use but I get reliable powder drops using spherical or ball powders right down to the end. Keep the return rod snug so it returns the powder bar the same each time. That is more important than the powder level or any add'l baffle imo.
IF YOU AREN'T HANDLOADING, YOU AREN'T SHOOTING ENOUGH!
NRA Instruc: Basic Pistol & Met Reloading
I have forgotten to ever mention this to anyone.
Simple fix is to set it correctly ,then put a wing nut on the holding screw .That screw and nut will work its self loose after a few hundred or so rounds.
Powder graphite helps slick the movement up nicely
|Quit staring at my wife's Butt|
My 650 came with a baffle in the powder hopper so it doesn't matter if it's almost full or empty the charge is so close to the same I cant tell the difference.
I wonder if you are having a static electric charge problem? Is the powder sticking to the side of the
I have had a static problem with inconsistent charges. I use a dryer sheet on the outside of the powder tube. Seems to have fixed the problem.
|On the DL|
I doubt it. This is Florida. High humidity.
A mind is a terrible thing.
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