Just a quick note here on the flash hole uniformer. You only use that tool once in the life of a case, to pop the chad of the cases that have punched primer flash holes.
I run two brands of brass; Winchester and Lapua. My match ammo is all Lapua and it don't do anything to the flash hole as they are drilled by Lapua. My blasting ammo brass if Winchester and I do more prep to that virgin brass than the Lapua brass and one of those steps is popping the flash hole chad. I do that when I first use the virgin brass.
|Alea iacta est|
You guys are a hoot!
I may not have been reloading as long as some of you, but it has still taken me years to collect up the stuff I have. Some of it I've also gotten for free (like the fancy primer seater I posted a video of in the other thread).
As for the trickler... I started off with a GemPro 250 and a $20 Redding trickler.
I decided that my time was worth more to me than $750 was, so I bought that. Along the way I also tried a Chargemaster, but found it to be inaccurate - and it broke.
As was mentioned previously by (well, someone, it's on the previous page), you should always check scales with a check weight - doesn't matter if they are electronic or beam.
I prefer electronic since I'm a nerd. Nothing wrong with a good beam scale though. It's just that for the volume of precision ammo I shoot, I wanted something a little more automated, so I bit the proverbial bullet and got the autotrickler system. I wish it worked with a cheaper scale. The autotrickler itself is only about $200, which is pretty reasonable when you think about the amount of time it saves. The cost of the scale was a much more difficult pill to swallow. But it only works with 2 scales last I knew, and I did buy the cheaper of the two, so.. LOL
Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.
I have an old RCBS beam scale, I've had it since I started loading 30+ years ago. When I got my first electronic scale, I retired the beam scale right away. I've never used it to check any electronic scale. What would be the point?
I use certified weights to check the electronic scales. At first it was the one that came with the scale, like the ones with the Chargemaster. Since I used these weights to calibrate the CM, they were fine for the purpose. I developed loads using the CM as the reference scale, always calibrated with the weights. So any load developed on there was always in tune with that scale. It didn't have to be certified, it just had to be consistent.
When I got the A&D fx120, I bought a certified weight on Amazon and that's what I use to calibrate it. Again, the loads that were developed in the last couple of years were done on that scale, calibrated with that weight.
Interestingly enough, the CM and the A&D120 are very close in results to one another. I use the CM to throw my target weight automatically and then I finish the charge on the A&D. I don't even throw short, I throw dead on. About 20% of the CM loads are exactly the same on the A&D, 75% are short by 1 to 10 or more kernels and 5% are a little over and I just remove the kernels with a plastic tweezers tool.
Having the two scales check every load gives me the confidence that I am throwing consistent loads that two electronic scales agree on.
|quarter MOA visionary|
You will figure it out once you actually start reloading.
Experience is your best teacher.
Sent you an email this morning, fredj338.
"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe
"Whenever somebody uses 'liberal,' when what they really mean is 'leftist,' they immediately lose my attention." -- Me
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