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9mm and 40 S&W brass marking and processing? Login/Join 
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posted
I’ve seen the answer but can’t seem to find it.

First, I’ve collected some 9mm brass that has a ring around it, almost like a can lure on some .223 bullets. Federal brass. Is this okay to load, especially with heavier bullets? It doesn’t seem to be stepped brass internally.

What about the Federal N.T. brass? This is from the NonToxic ammo I think and has a primer that looks sealed and a larger flash hole.

Lastly, on 40 S&W brass, is it worth getting an undersized die from EGW? I try to collect only my brass but I’m thinking of trying to build some stock with once fired processed brass and I need it to work in my CZ.




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Posts: 7206 | Location: West | Registered: November 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Riley:
I’ve seen the answer but can’t seem to find it.

First, I’ve collected some 9mm brass that has a ring around it, almost like a can lure on some .223 bullets. Federal brass. Is this okay to load, especially with heavier bullets? It doesn’t seem to be stepped brass internally.

What about the Federal N.T. brass? This is from the NonToxic ammo I think and has a primer that looks sealed and a larger flash hole.

Lastly, on 40 S&W brass, is it worth getting an undersized die from EGW? I try to collect only my brass but I’m thinking of trying to build some stock with once fired processed brass and I need it to work in my CZ.




There are a number of 9mm cal cases that have a cannalure on them. They are fine to reload, just expect a bit more pressure required when flaring/expanding the case.....it is a one time thing only.



You can load the NT brass cases also, but you will need to remove the primer pocket crimp before you attempt to re-primer them.
 
Posts: 4324 | Location: Az | Registered: May 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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On your 40 brass, I would hold off unless you are finding brass that is not resizing properly. Then I would get the GR-X die which is push through that will remove any bulge at the base. This die was developed to remove the Glock Bulge. Only the early glocks did this, the later ones are ok.


David

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Posts: 3448 | Location: Piney Woods of East Texas | Registered: November 08, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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^^^^^^

That's been my experience. I've never had a problem with a standard RCBS carbide die on .40 S&W cases fired interchangeably between Gen 3/4 Glocks and Sigs
 
Posts: 7779 | Location: The Red part of Minnesota | Registered: October 06, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of jmorris
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The 9mm brass is fine, I do cull cases with the internal “step” in them.

I don’t run underside dies, my normal dies return cases back to original dimensions.

If I have a gun that won’t run on factory dimension brass I fix the gun vs make special undersized ammunition for it.
 
Posts: 479 | Location: DFW | Registered: May 03, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have given up on foreign marked 9mm brass, just go with domestics, also do not do NATO stamped, crimped pockets. Anything with an internal step gets tossed as well.
I shoot range pickups for most of my pistol brass. I have never needed a bulge buster or pass thru sizer for my 40s.


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Posts: 7768 | Location: ca, usa | Registered: February 17, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks all!

I can not wait to get my 650 parts to convert to 40.




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Posts: 7206 | Location: West | Registered: November 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by Blue68f100:
Then I would get the GR-X die which is push through that will remove any bulge at the base.

I keep the Redding GR-X die mounted in my single stage press, and use it after first firing of 10mm cases (same as .40 in diameter and shape). After that, it's the Redding dual ring sizing/decapping die in the 650. That process seems to eliminate any slight bulge left by regular sizing dies. Redding does not make a dual ring sizer for 9mm due to its extra taper. Their titanium carbide sizer is tapered inside. Currently, I only shoot and reload 9mm and 10mm.
 
I mark my 9mm cases using red Dykem with the sponge tip applicator. I can smear the bottoms of a box of 100 in about 30 seconds. I don't mark my 10mm because I am usually the only one on my squad shooting it. I only want my own brass back due to knowing its provenance (how many times reloaded). I never use range pick-ups, and discard them if they end up in my bag when I get home and spread them out on a screen.



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Posts: 8577 | Location: South Congress AZ | Registered: May 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Because of the NT brass, is the reason I sort brass as I am using Dillon dies and do not wish to change to another brand of dies. Since I am already sorting I also discard stepped brass and most foreign brass which goes off to the recycle yard when I have accumulated 5 gl pail.
 
Posts: 1452 | Location: Sandbox City VA | Registered: September 26, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I never use range pick-ups, and discard them if they end up in my bag when I get home.
My .40 and 9mm brass comes from LEO's that use my range here on the farm. As such I know its history. I'd view as suspect any public range pick-ups.Just my procedure, YMMV. I also pitch any that are S&B or any with an internal cup. Rod


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