I just made the jump into reloading. I stocked up on supplies while I looked around for a good deal on Dillion Square Deal. I foud a DSB and I am almost ready to reload after I find a good scale. I have the Speer #14 on order for some help. I have done a ton of reading and watched countless videos on reloading on the net but I tend to learn by watching or doing. Is there anyone in the Seattle area willing to take the time to teach a new guy learn and master reloading?

This is the supplies I have
Square deal
Titegroup powder
Montana gold 124g FMJ and 115g
CCI and Wolf primers
Assosted once fired brass (tumbled)
Case Gauge
Calipers

quote:

Originally posted by bonfire:
I just made the jump into reloading. I stocked up on supplies while I looked around for a good deal on Dillion Square Deal. I foud a DSB and I am almost ready to reload after I find a good scale. I have the Speer #14 on order for some help. I have done a ton of reading and watched countless videos on reloading on the net but I tend to learn by watching or doing. Is there anyone in the Seattle area willing to take the time to teach a new guy learn and master reloading?

This is the supplies I have
Square deal
Titegroup powder
Montana gold 124g FMJ and 115g
CCI and Wolf primers
Assosted once fired brass (tumbled)
Case Gauge
Calipers

I wish I was closer. One suggestion, put the TG on a shelf until you go through about 1000rds w/ a medium burn powder. I'll bet there have been more KBs w/ uberfast powders like TG, Clays, etc. than any other reason. Too fast, to narrow a load range & to little loft. It's a double charge waiting to happen. A good powder for the 1st timer in 9mm is WSF or Universal, Unique too, but doesn't meter as well. Pick a load in the middle of 3 average data sources & work up in 0.1gr increments. Load no more than 10rds w/ each powder charge & shoot them in order. Note any pressure signs, like flattened primers, case head markings from the breach, accuracy, functionality & how clean the powder is burning (medium bruner rate powders do not do well w/ starting loads). Ask question often, there are no dunmb questions on reloading.

What Fredj said.

Start simple and test different loads, bullets, oal etc in small groups. I do 10-15 rounds of each configuration.

It is not as daunting as it appears once you get started.
I started with W231 powder as it is also good for many different calibers. I like it for 9mm a lot.

I started .44 special, .40 S&W, .45 acp on it and have some .38 super to try and this week I will be trying my first .357 sig with it.
I am going onto other powders and Like WST a lot for .45, .40 and 9mm but don't use it any mmore for 9 due to a lack of published data.
I recently bought some sr4756 and am eying other powders especially for hotter .38 super, .357 sig, .44 mag loads.

+2

Sounds like you are well on your way, but I agree about the Tight Group. It is a fast burning powder with not a lot of volume. This means that small increases in powder can run up pressures quickly, and that it's possible to double charge. WSF is more forgiving and will fill the case more.

I am liking both WSF and WST thanks to comments here. WSF is slower burning and is also the safer choice for the heavier of the two bullets. Another nice thing is you can usually get more velocity at the top end from the slower burning powders - the faster ones experience higher pressures too soon to wring out all you can get from the cartridge.

The TG is good to have for target loads, but the WSF is a really nice powder to start with and to have on hand. TG for target shooting loads and WSF for heavier or faster loads (as pratice Self Defense loads).

have fun and be safe,
rod

I also started with TiteGroup and have 2 SDBs. I load mine 9mm for IDPA and target shooting. They run about 133k to 136k power factor. I have no idea why anyone would want to load for higher pressures. So, if you're looking to make target ammo, I don't think you'll have any problems if you start lading with TiteGroup. (BTW, You can go to hodgdon's website for load data.)


Regarding comments above, a SDB is auto indexing so it's very unlikely you'll have a double charge. If you don't do a full stroke with the handle, you might advance the shell plate sooner than you one case with no powder and you'll have one that was not properly crimped.

Be sure to make a full upstroke so the primer is fully seated.

After you're done use a case gauge to check every round and check every round for a high primer.

Welcome to reloading!