I was loading some rounds for my 6.5 Creedmoor FN SPR, and started getting frustrated with my Hornady trickler.
It drops 4-5 kernels of powder at a time, then nothing for a couple turns, then 4-5 more kernels, over and over.
Also, after about 50 rounds, i noticed that half my cases had noticably different smounts of powder than others.
So, i rechecked my cheap red midway usa scales calibration with a checkweight and it was way off.
So, i recalibrated it, dumped the cases and started over. After a few rounds, same thing happened again.
I got pissed, did a little google-fu, and in a moment of anger ordered a Satorius ES323-1s scale. Even if it saves me from blowing my face off just once, itll be worth the rather significant price. Its a magnetic force restoration scale.
But, a slow precise (1 kernel at a time) powder trickler seemed harder to find.
So, i made one!
The bottom half was machined from a solid chunk of 6061-t6 aluminum. The top hslf is machined from a solid chunk of 6al4v titanium. The spout is 6061-t6, internally threaded 5/16-18. The threads seperate the powder into a nice evenly dispersed flow.
The plastic basepad is 3d printed.
It drops 1-2 kernals per rotation, every rotation. Its bottom heavy and doesnt move. Between the Satorius scale and the trickler, i can get charges to within a couple hundredths of a grain, consistently.
I just wanted to show it off. It took about 4 hours to make.
That. Is. Awesome.!!
Ya know, a person COULD knock out a few of those for friends. Wink Wink.
On a mote of dust, suspended in a sunbeam.
Ha! I actually did make 2, the other went to a friend.
But, i did this out of frustration, and in all honesty it was probably a little silly.
Theres about a hundred bucks in material and a couple hundred bucks worth of shop time in each of them.
So, i made a $300 machined trickler when there are tons of ancient cast tricklers on ebay, that would likely work as well, selling for the cost of dinner at McGreasys.
BTW: that Entris 323-1s scale is badass. It gives the weight instantly, the moment the powder flake lands. No waiting for things to settle, no fuss.
Weigh the same bullet 10 times, and you get the same weight 10 times. Exactly the same weight, every time, instantly. I didnt know such a scale existed.
I have the same issue with my old RCBS balance scale when I'm trickling charges. It will drift out of calibration just due to the vibration and movement of the arm, and frequently I have to dump a batch of cases and start over. Really aggravating. I'm about ready to splurge on a good electronic scale too.
I got frustrated with my powder weighing pan as well. Its tiny, has 1 tiny handle and 1 tiny spout. I also have a weird ocd about the powder being all spread out on a flat surface. I like it concentrated in the center.
I decided that i want a bigger handle on each side. And a bigger spout, also on each side.
So, i designed one in CAD, exported the .stl file to my 3d printer, then hit the go button.
No matter how its sitting, i have a handle and a pour spout accessable without having to reach around at weird angles. And, the powder stays centered in the bottom.
|The Unmanned Writer|
When I was a few sentences in on the original post my thought was "durr, what about an RCBS?"
And then I saw your piece of art solution...
Sentiment without action is the ruin of the soul.
Help, I'm having premonitions of future flashbacks.
Only in an insane world are the sane considered insane.
Some people listen to the noise of the world,
And some people listen to the quiet.
"All Californians, like all citizens of the United States, have a fundamental Constitutional right to keep and bear common and dangerous arms. The nation’s Founders used arms for self-protection, for the common defense, for hunting food, and as a check against tyranny." Judge Benitez - March 2019
My pick for a powder pan is the Lyman “powder pal”
It’s one of those things that’s so simple and smart, I wish I had thought of it.
I saw that and had considered adding a funnel to the 3d printed design, but lately i've been leaving the cases in my custom 3d printed loading trays while pouring the powder charges.
I pour a charge, then move the funnel to the next case, and leave it on the case, for the next charge.
The more i handle them with my ham hands, the more powder i spill on my bench.
I designed and printed some of these in a size appropriate for the Creedmoor. I hate the sloppy fit of the universal type trays. This reduces the amount of powder i spill.
I uploaded the .stl files to thingiverse so anyone with a 3d printer can print some.
|Plowing straight ahead come what may|
Ken226...that loading block is beautiful (as well as that powder trickler).
"we've gotta roll with the punches, learn to play all of our hunches
Making the best of what ever comes our way
Forget that blind ambition and learn to trust your intuition
Plowing straight ahead come what may
And theres a cowboy in the jungle"
I like using the block for powder charges. I can visually inspect all the charged cases while sitting in the block. Makes it easy to see if any have grossly more or less powder than the rest.
Its saved me headached more than once. Particularly before i bought the Sartorius scale.
Strain gauge scales suck. Magnetic force restoration is the only way to go for precision.
Ken just a question, if you were to sell these loading blocks " you could easily market them " how much would one cost???
P220 Combat, P220 Sport, P220EL, X-5 Comp 9mm , P226 BlackWater, P226 ST.357 Sig, P226ST 9mm, P229ST .40, P228, P232 SL, Glock 19, CZ75BSS, CZ-83, S&W 29, S&W 640, S&W 642, Ruger MKII, Ruger Charger,, HKP7,,Browning Hi Power, Colt Anaconda, S&W 460 Mag, RRA 9mm CAR, Robinson Arms XCR, FN-SLP ,Arsenal SAS-M7,, Built AR-15 with lots of goodies,,Etc, Etc, Etc.....
Each of those take about 10hrs to 3d print, but its a pretty hands off process. I could sell them for around 8-10$.
But, 3d printing doesn't result in the smooth glossy surface finish shown in the CAD drawing. It results in a surface finish like the powder pan pictured above.
But, 3d printing has some advantages too. It can create a totally enclosed shell with a honeycomb internal fill structure. It results in a very rigid, strong part. Unlike the cheap flexible injection molded stuff on the market.
Ill post a pic of a finished block so you can better see the end result of these blocks after 3d printing.
I know it's an old, dead thread, but it seemed a good place to post a pic of my rebuilt Hornady POS trickler.
A coworker asked my advice on an equipment list, so he could start reloading. When he asked me which trickler to get, I told him not to bother, I had one I'd give him.
Since I was bored, and had nothing going on, I fished out my old lousy plastic Hornady trickler, and added some mass to make it into a decent trickler.
Those of you who have one of these, will immediately notice a couple upgrades. It actually works great now. It's heavy enough that I can spin the knob without having to hold it still with the other hand.
The aluminum base and knurled knob are epoxied to their respective mating parts.
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