Hey guys,

I have just placed $$ down on a '44 Springfield M1 Garand. Honestly it looks like it's in great shape. I know that most likely all parts are not 100% original due to the age.

I want to know if you all have any tell tale red flags to look out for when purchasing such a fine weapon.

The price is $950 and I think that it is a fair one.

Any comments or concerns?

Thanks in advance!

Probably the biggest thing to look for in a shooter would be barrel/ throat erosion, but few people carry a gauge around.

Get Scott Duff's book on the Garand. I also check to make sure it has what is called a "cut" operating rod. Some people claim it makes no difference but I FEEL safer with one, besides some collectors want the "uncut" for restorations.

Learn about the causes and prevention of "Garand Thumb"

Grease, lots of it to keep her happy.

Give her a girls name.

Hoard "clips". Yes in a Garand they are "clips" not "magazines" Get an ammo belt as well.

Enjoy the heck out of it. Way back in the day when I got my first one I was on "Cloud Nine" for weeks.

Start finding some 3006!
Beyond what has already been said, if you are close enough to have the owner take it apart, make sure that the drawing number on the receiver leg matches the serial number. This makes sure that the rifle was demilled and put back together. I'm sure its not but you can't be too careful. The easiest way to do that short of having Duff's book is to post over at the CMP forum:

www.thecmp.org/forums/

I would also check for an import mark on the barrel. Other than that, go for it!
Once you get one, you never really stop...

$950 sounds high. You can get a CMP Correct Grade for that.

Who is the manufacturer? I am at work and the server blocks images so if there's a photo of it I can't tell

The M1 rifle was designed for the pressure curves produced by M2 ball ammo, which is a type of .30-06. In an M1 that is not modified, you should use on appropriate ammo. Any old .30-06 is not the appropriate ammo. M1 ball or .30-06 Government is not the right ammo

Commercial .30-06 is not appropriate for the M1 rifle unles the roundds arre specifically made for that application or you have an adjustable gas plug

Commerical .30-06 will not damage the rifle on the first shot, maybe not on the 1000th round. But you will be damaging the gas system

M1- thumb, ah yes

I will never forget the pain of have a 10 lb. garand hanging from my thumb.

quote:

Originally posted by kz1000:
$950 sounds high. You can get a CMP Correct Grade for that.

I have to concur, unless it's in immaculate shape. Once you figure in the ~$1010 you'll be paying for this one after tax, you can get a decent "Field Grade" or "Service Grade" shooter from the CMP for a little over half that, or a functionally brand new "Special Grade" for about the same price.

http://www.thecmp.org/m1garand.htm

The CMP is also usually your best bet for the correct M2 Ball ammo, but they appear to be sold out at the moment.
http://www.thecmp.org/ammosales.htm

quote:

Originally posted by swiss_seth:
M1- thumb, ah yes

I will never forget the pain of have a 10 lb. garand hanging from my thumb.

Nowhere near as bad as 1919 finger.

Round got stuck in chamber, stuck finger down there to get it out with fingernail or something and oops let that 15lb bolt fly forward and chamber my finger.

Rule #1... buy the gun and not the story.

Unless the owner has provenance to back up their claims, it's probably not true. Be wary of claims of unfired/unissued rifles, USGI bring-back rifles, etc, etc. If the gun is being represented as a CMP rifle, ask for the certificate.

More than likely, the rifle will be a mixmaster of parts that has been refurbished at least once in it's life.

Unless you can inspect the rifle yourself, see if the owner will fill out a data sheet so you know exactly what you are buying. The more homework you can do, the better off you'll be.

Probably the biggest worry is to make sure that you did not buy a welded rifle. Years ago some folks took pieces of scrapped M1 receivers and welded them together to form a complete receiver. Some were good and some not. Welded receivers are usually frowned upon. The easiest way to check is to get the drawing numbers off the right receiver leg and make sure that is corresponds to the serial number on the heel. Welded receivers will often be mis-matched.

As far as things to check on the rifle:

• excessive throat/muzzle wear
  
• a loose-fitting gas cylinder which may indicate worn splines on the barrel
  
• loose fitting stock or cracked handguards
  
• a rear sight that is too-easily adjustable may indicate worn parts
  

Good luck.

It's too much unless it is a CMP Correct Grade rifle -- all matching parts.

Your price is high. Not terribly so if the condition of the rifle is very good or better. The main concern is throat erosion, try to get a number if possible.

Generally though, even with a price a touch high, if the rifle is to your liking, it will please you when you get it to the range.

quote:

Originally posted by nbkky71:
Rule #1... buy the gun and not the story.

Unless the owner has provenance to back up their claims, it's probably not true. Be wary of claims of unfired/unissued rifles, USGI bring-back rifles, etc, etc. If the gun is being represented as a CMP rifle, ask for the certificate.

More than likely, the rifle will be a mixmaster of parts that has been refurbished at least once in it's life.

Unless you can inspect the rifle yourself, see if the owner will fill out a data sheet so you know exactly what you are buying. The more homework you can do, the better off you'll be.

Probably the biggest worry is to make sure that you did not buy a welded rifle. Years ago some folks took pieces of scrapped M1 receivers and welded them together to form a complete receiver. Some were good and some not. Welded receivers are usually frowned upon. The easiest way to check is to get the drawing numbers off the right receiver leg and make sure that is corresponds to the serial number on the heel. Welded receivers will often be mis-matched.

This reweld business is not a real issue. Good luck even finding a rewelded Garand. And to that, the earliest M1A rifles are all rewelded Garands.

To say that all rewelded receivers are unsafe, is ignorant. To say that one must be careful if a rewelded receiver is encountered would be more prudent.

M1 thumb-

Don't ever get it.

Rack the oprod back like you f'ing mean it, so that the bolt doesn't rest on the follower, and you will never set yourself up for it.

Insert a clip with your right hand, thumb presses in the clip, fingers pointing down along the right side of the receiver and stock so that edge of hand blocks the oprod handle- press home clip with thumb, remove thumb from clip/receiver and rotate fingers up and away smartly- and you will never get M1 thumb

quote:

Originally posted by Chris_B:
M1 thumb-

Don't ever get it.

Rack the oprod back like you f'ing mean it, so that the bolt doesn't rest on the follower, and you will never set yourself up for it.

Insert a clip with your right hand, thumb presses in the clip, fingers pointing down along the right side of the receiver and stock so that edge of hand blocks the oprod handle- press home clip with thumb, remove thumb from clip/receiver and rotate fingers up and away smartly- and you will never get M1 thumb

Exactly. When the bolt is resting, incorrectly, on the follower, you have a 9.5 pound mousetrap on your hands.
When you place a clip in the magazine, removing your hand should, some what, resemble a reverse "Karate Chop".

As far as original parts, don't hold your breath. There are some apparent all original M1's, but they are in the several thousands of dollars, if you can find one. They usually have to be independently verified by an expert.. for example one that has an authentic paper trail and verified never issued, plus an expert inspection of the parts could be verified as all-original.

Parts other than the receiver are batch marked ONLY. You can however check the batch date by using the website to see when the parts were made. There are correct batch parts for your rifle however.

Some (if any) of the correctly marked batch parts MAY be the original part that came with the rifle, some may not. Most guns were refurbed several times. A batch mark that matches your date just means that would be the correct part for the gun, not necessarily the original part that came in your gun.

All original parts will be "correct" not all "correct" parts are original.

http://battlerifle0.tripod.com/id3.html

Check the barrel for the date code by pulling back the charging handle and reading the side of the barrel. My 1944 barrel is marked 3-SA 8-44. (August 1944) It is alleged to be the original barrel, and it matches my receiver date.

I purchased my 1944 SA with all correct parts, apparent original barrel and original finsh from a reputable source that ONLY deals with Garands for about $950.


The original finish of the receiver of a 1944 will be a grayish-green colored parkerized finish.

Most barrels have been replaced so you may see HRA 6-54 or something like that.

The stock should also have a imprint / stamp that can be attributed to a date. Example: mine is VERY faint be reads SA over GAW. This would be the correct dated stock for my receiver manufacture date.

Check the stock lock up as well. If the action moves a lot in the stock, you may have issues with accuracy.

Other than that check the headspace (or have a gunsmith do it), the throat erosion and muzzle wear with a gauge.

You also may want to look into replacing the springs for proper function, if worn out.

Other than that, use M2 ball .30-06 ammo only, no commerical ammo, unless designed for the garand gas system OR you get an adjustable gas plug. Search for adjustable gas plug if you want to know more about them... and as others said, use grease in the action. See CMP website below for more info on cleaning and maint.

If you are getting a mix-meister gun with a worn out barrel, you are paying too much.

A gun with mixed date and manufacturer parts, average wear, with a decent barrel is worth around $500-$600, maybe a little more depending on condition.

If you end up with one, learn your lesson, do your research FIRST next time, but at least you have another extremely fun gun to show for it, so don't see it as a loss. Shoot it and enjoy it.

www.thecmp.org use it, read it, know it.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: onethirtyeight,

If you load it right (and you have more strength than a little girl) you will never get "M1 thumb" no matter where the bolt is when you load.

Look on the barrel to see when it was rebarrled. Almost all M1 have a newer barrel.

The price does sound kind of high. I have a few and one is going on the sale block to pay for other stuff. Lately I've seen beat up m1s at shops for $600. I might do the gunbroker thing and I mention that because it is a good place to see what price some m1s command.

The nice thing about M1 thumb is that you are unlikely to do it twice.

If you want to shoot the Garand check Tony out.http://www.garandguy.com/
I wanted a Garand I could shoot and not have to worry about. Tony offers a 1 year guarantee.
I bought the Super Premium with a new Criterion 30/06 barrel. The Rifle is GORGEOUS, looks like new, flawless in appearance and performance.
I have a 1943 receiver.
Now with 30/06 ammo NOT available from the CMP I might suggest a Garand barreled to 308.

I paid $950 a few years ago for a very unoriginal M1 Garand. The receiver was made around December 1943 with all good original parts, except for the barrel. Its a "left in the white" .308 barrel. I probably paid a good bit too much for it but, I love the freaking thing and will probably never sell it. Its got a very nice walnut stock with cartouches and all. Kinda unorthodox but, at the time 308 ammo was a helluva lot cheaper than 30-06.

It uses standard enbloc clips as well.

Amazing advice from you all! How do I check barrel corrosion?

And if someone could sum up exactly what they would check out before buying in a bullet pointed manner that would be great. The exterior of the garand is at 90%. It is Springfield Armory manufactured and I do not believe it is a CMP.

I have the ability to strip it. That is not a problem so I can fully inspect it any time I want to.