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Barrel threading and muzzle devices Login/Join 
Be Like Mike
Picture of CEShooter
posted
I have a Tikka in .243 that needs a little end of muzzle attention so that I can use my Omega 300 on it.

The first question that I have is where should I take it or send it to get threaded. Is there someone in the Minnesota or Wisconsin area that is worth the drive or do I just need to throw it in a box and mail it someplace?

The second question is what to put on the end of it. For something that will probably see more range time than hunting time do I go with a muzzle brake or just direct thread it? Both of my ARs are set up with Silencerco’s ASR system so I like the idea of something compatible with that going on the end. If I go the muzzle brake route, would I be able to tell the difference between their single port and three port versions?


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"Structural engineering is the art of moulding materials we don't understand into shapes we cannot precisely analyze, so as to withstand forces we cannot really access, in such a way that the community at large has no reason to suspect the extent of our ignorance." Dr. A. R. Dykes
 
Posts: 2113 | Location: 500 Miles from the homeland | Registered: February 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Music's over turn
out the lights
Picture of David W
posted Hide Post
1. Class 3 Machining is my go to for barrel threads, he is stupid fast.

Here

2. Having a muzzle device would be easier to swap from one to the other, I hate having to unscrew the direct thread adapter from the can, its always super tight. Once you have a can why would you not use it? So, 2 vs 3 port brake is non issue, go 2 to save weight.


David W.

Rather fail with honor than succeed by fraud. -Sophocles
 
Posts: 3454 | Location: Winston Salem, N.C. | Registered: May 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of c_zielsdorf
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by David W:
1. Class 3 Machining is my go to for barrel threads, he is stupid fast.

Here

2. Having a muzzle device would be easier to swap from one to the other, I hate having to unscrew the direct thread adapter from the can, its always super tight. Once you have a can why would you not use it? So, 2 vs 3 port brake is non issue, go 2 to save weight.


Class 3 is awesome!


Disabled combat vet
 
Posts: 1351 | Location: Southwest Washington State | Registered: February 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I run trains!
Picture of SigM4
posted Hide Post
I’ll recommend Class 3 as well. Morgan is local to me so I’ve had the good fortune to meet him in person. A stand up guy that I trust with any of my threading needs. He’s done many barrels for me.

As for what to put, yes the three port brake will be more effective. I believe if you send it in with the barrel Morgan will thread it such that it will clock correctly without shims.



Success always occurs in private, and failure in full view.
 
Posts: 4967 | Location: Willow Park, TX | Registered: April 14, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Be Like Mike
Picture of CEShooter
posted Hide Post
Class 3 it is then. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.


---------------
"Structural engineering is the art of moulding materials we don't understand into shapes we cannot precisely analyze, so as to withstand forces we cannot really access, in such a way that the community at large has no reason to suspect the extent of our ignorance." Dr. A. R. Dykes
 
Posts: 2113 | Location: 500 Miles from the homeland | Registered: February 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Purveyor of Death
and Destruction
Picture of walker77
posted Hide Post
I had class 3 chop and thread my MPX barrel a couple months ago. Turn around time was about a week and a half including shipping.
 
Posts: 6899 | Location: Raymore, Missouri | Registered: June 24, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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