quote:

Originally posted by Tompow:
Get an adjustable wrench, hold the rifle with one hand and give the wrench a smack with a hammer... Not rocket science.

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:
This works unless the barrel is 14.5" and pinned. Then we have a whole new ball game.

quote:

Originally posted by Tompow:

Don't worry about the torque... its going to take whatever is needed to correctly clock the brake... looking down the barrel(not literally, just for explanation)if you hand tighten and end up with the "top" of the brake at 9 o'clock then you're only going to wrench a few pounds to get it right. On the other hand, if you end up at 2 o'clock you've got a long way to tighten to get all the way around... I've had this happen many time and I usually experiment- sometimes two crush washers, sometimes flip them over, sometimes crush one and add a new one. There are only three "nuts" that need to be tighten on modern AR's and none really need to be torqued to any specification for your gun to run perfect.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:

And just to confirm -- I should target 15-20 ft-lbs of torque, right? Too much is bad for the barrel tip? Once the device is snug, it never really gets loose unless one takes a wrench to it (ie - never from just firing)?

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
What I was thinking was mounting the vise to some wood. Then use c-clamps to fix the wood to the table temporarily.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Are peel washers readily available in big box stores (HD, Lowes, Ace)?

quote:

Originally posted by Tompow:
What the hell are you guys talking about? AR barrels aren't threaded, at least any made in the past ten years ! .

quote:

. There are only three "nuts" that need to be tighten on modern AR's and none really need to be torqued to any specification for your gun to run perfect.

quote:

Originally posted by IndianaBoy:
A v-block that will safely clamp in a vise is probably the safest and best tool for this job, but often a pain in the but because there isn't a lot of real estate on an AR-15 barrel between the FSB or the front of the handguard and the muzzle.


Next would be a reaction rod. Either a Geissele or the Brownells version. I have a Geissele reaction rod and it is simply indispensable in my opinion. I use it all the time. Locks into the steel barrel extension and allows you to do a lot of work without removing optics or handguards.


After that would be the clamshell type receiver blocks.


There are some upper receiver blocks that place all the stress on the upper lugs for the takedown pins. I would not use one of these myself. Too easy to damage your upper receiver.



I suppose you may be able to have someone hold the rifle while you torque off the muzzle device but they will likely wind up putting a lot of force on the grip.

There's a lot to be said for having the right tool for the job.

quote:

Originally posted by ARMT Guy:
I haven't had any of my muzzle devices loosen up when using these. If you're still worried about a muzzle device coming loose with these, a very tiny drop of Rockset, ( or similar product ) on the first few threads of the muzzle will do the trick. Just be prepared to use some heat from a small hobby style butane torch if you decide down the road to remove that muzzle device.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:

I know it won't happen so I don't need to worry to much about improperly installing and the round hitting the back face of the ALG, right? That never happens, right? Worst case, what would happen if it does?

That hole looks pretty small up front (compared to the open face of the A2)....
https://algdefense.com/single-chamber-brake-scb.html

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
(I'm not sure what to call the piece with lugs near the barrel)

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Sorry, really dumb question. I just want to be sure..... I don't want to screw up my AR and/or result in an explosion

So, to use the Geissele reaction rod, vise to remove/install muzzle device:

1) clamp down on reaction rod flat in vise
2) remove BCG from upper receiver; insert upper receiver onto reaction rod
3) ensure lugs on reaction rod insert into the receiver lugs near the barrel where the BCG would fit (I'm not sure what to call the piece with lugs near the barrel)
4) hold the upper on the handguard, apply lateral pressure to ensure the upper and reaction rod lugs remain securely seated
5) use other hand to work the wrench and remove / install muzzle device

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Thanks!

I'll try to clamp the rod vertically then. Gravity can help keep the upper seated in the rod. And then I can also kneel on the piece of wood on which I'm mounting the vise. Seems like vertical would be a more stable orientation.

Strap of leather. I'll see if I can find something laying around.