Hello, I recently got a really nice Argentine 1891 Mauser to add to the old military “Mouser” collection. She is a matching beautiful old girl.
Anyway, tried to function test her w/ the old primered brass to see if she would fire trick before I started to load up ammo for her. But, all I got is a click. Over and over again.
Strip the bolt down and it is loaded w/ old sticky cosmoline. Cleaned it all out of every nook and cranny. Reassemble and tried again. Click, lots of clicks and not a mark on the primer. The firing pin does not appear to be cut down. Damn!!!!
Any ideas? Thank you.This message has been edited. Last edited by: 357fuzz,
Originally posted by MikeinNC: Those things were in a buncha different calibers, maybe you have a shorter case than it’s chambered for??
The 1891 Argentine Mauser as far as I know was made in one caliber the 7.65x53 Argentine or Belgian(same round). However, after being sold off as surplus rechambering and rebarreling was quite common in a lot of different calibers. I am checking just to be sure. So far it is looking like the original caliber.
Ok. Tried dropping different rounds into the chamber and the only thing that fits is the original chambering.
I don’t think the ‘91 had the controlled extractor however, a case and whole round fits under it and is held in place by it. Upon opening the bolt the round is held until proper ejection.
I have tried this with brand new Norma brass and a surplus Argentine military round with the same result.
It is like the striker is released but the firing pin doesn’t move. Doesn’t leave a mark in anything.
I also noticed that when the rifle is cocked the safety is in the fire position(wing to the left as your looking down the rifle sights)and you can’t move it to the up position(disassemble) and to the right(safe). When the striker is in the fired/uncocked position the safety “wing” just flops all over. I am thinking about buying all new guts for the bolt and safety and trying that.
Sounds like the bolt internals aren't properly aligning, to allow the safety to be able to cam the cocking piece away to disengage it from the sear. Hence why you can't move the safety when it's cocked.
Before you resort to replacing bolt parts, ensure that you have properly reassembled the bolt, from when you took it apart to clean the cosmoline out:
Got her to work!!!!! I gave the bolt and guts another deep clean. Reassembled double checking w/ the pic that Rogue sent and figured out I was not getting the bolt sleeve far enough down against the body of the bolt/bolt handle.
Originally posted by 357fuzz: Got her to work!!!!! I gave the bolt and guts another deep clean. Reassembled double checking w/ the pic that Rogue sent and figured out I was not getting the bolt sleeve far enough down against the body of the bolt/bolt handle.
Thanks for all the help!!!!!
The drawback to Mausers bolt designs prior to the 93 when they switched to a 90 degree twist to remove the FP. No way to get those back together wrong! Still, there’s something about the 1889 and 1891... I’m up to three rifles and a Carbine between Argentine and Peruvian 91s. And desperately looking for a reasonable price on an 1889. Although not holding my breath on that one!
Posts: 846 | Location: Wet side of WA | Registered: October 24, 2008
Worth the $40 if you've got a bunch of different milsurps.
Sure, you can find milsurp disassembly/reassembly tutorials online or on Youtube for free. But when you're up to your wrists in grease and looking at a pile of bolt parts on your workbench while trying to remember how it all goes back together, it's even easier to just reach over and crack open the book. It's very well-made, with excellent photos and layout.
I think I am going to buy that book just to have. I recall when I was a kid a series of disassembly books. One for military rifles, one for S&W pistols, etc... used to pour over those books at the local library.