Perhaps the best budget rifle on the market.
I bought a T3X Superlite 6.5 Creedmoor back in January for critter control at work. I shoot a lot of pigs. Some months I’ll get 30 or 40, others I might see only a few.
Most of my shots are from inside my truck at 25-30yds, but I set my scope up with a 200yd zero Because I like to be able to get the ones that see me first and are running away. Shots from 150-250 yds account for the second highest ratio.
Last week I was doing a routine scope check because it had been a while since I’ve shot at anything. I simply fire one round into a target at 100 yds just to be sure the scope is right. After my one round confirmation, I wondered what a 400 yard shot would look like.
I know ballistically from my box of ammo that at 400 yds, I should expect ~23” of drop. I simply put a piece of tape 23” above my target and backed out to 400 yards. When I shoot, I simply rest the gun on my drivers side mirror and lock in a good bold.
I am posting a link to the you tube vid. If anyone wants to imbed, I’m fine with that. It’s a short vid made using my company and personal phones.
|The Unknown |
The Tikka is a fantastic little rifle. Great build quality and superb accuracy. We've been rolling a lot of Bergara rifles lately, and that's been another I'd put in the same category as Tikka, in regards to quality vs. price.
Tikka makes a good rifle. I don't understand your logic about a 200 yard zero. Zeroing your rifle at 100 yards and using a mil based scope/reticle makes more sense to me. At 200 yards with a 100 yard zero you're just under a .5 mils with a 6.5 Creed. At 300 you're at 1.1 mils. At those distances you wouldn't need to dial and it takes all the guess work out of it.
I use a 200 yd zero because I don’t mess with the turrets on my scope. It’s set at 200, which give puts me about 1.5” high at 100, and a few inches low at 250. I use the “see the pig, shoot the pig” method of aiming. No time to dial.
I like your thinking. It makes perfect sense to me.
I also agree on the Tikkas. Excellent rifles. Excellent barrels. Smooth actions and clean, adjustable triggers.
Very high value ratio on the Tikka. If you want the same quality for more money Sako.
Love mine, T3x Lite Stainless in 270WIN.
Just over 8lbs unloaded, with the Nikon telescope I put on top.
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All of my rifles intended for use at longer ranges are zeroed for 100 yards for a couple of reasons, including ballistics calculations. But although I can’t speak for the OP, and I’m not a hunter myself, that 100-yard zero is not ideal for all situations, and it’s something hunters have known for generations.
Most of my long rang shooting involves precisely-known distances and ballistics dope. But let’s consider what I would need to do if I were called upon to respond to a situation in which I might have only a few seconds to engage a target at distances from 50 to 300 yards, but my degree of accuracy would only be necessary to hit a 6 inch wide by 10 inch high zone. I wouldn’t have time lase the range or to consult my ballistics table to determine my aiming holdoff, and I certainly wouldn’t have time to dial the necessary correction on my scope, so what to do?
The answer is known as the “point blank range” concept. PBR refers to the zeroing distance that will allow hits on a predefined target by aiming at its center within a specified range of targeting distances. To cite one example I’ve calculated for my own use, with a particular rifle and ammunition, if I zero at 250 yards and aim at the center of the 10" target, the bullet will stay within that 10 inch up/down zone from the muzzle out to 290 yards. That accounts for the calculated rise and fall of the bullet throughout its trajectory plus the 1 minute of angle precision of the rifle.
What that means is that if I might have to engage a fleeting target and hit within that 6×10 inch zone, I would change my zero to 250 yards from my usual 100 before setting out and then aim at the center of the zone when the target presented itself. What’s more, with a little judiciousness, the effective range of the PBR concept can be extended some. If I know that my target is closer to 350 yards than 290, I can raise my point of aim a bit and still get hits within the targeting zone without knowing the exact range or what exact holdoff is required.
Depending on the rifle and ammunition, a 200 yard zero would permit something similar for the OP on targets of known size like hogs. To reiterate, the same concept has been used by hunters for generations, and especially before we had highly accurate ballistics calculators and scopesight reticles calibrated in milliradians or minutes of angle. And the same concept is used by military shooters with their “battle sight” zeroes: When the target is a human, a 300 meter zero, for example, gives hits with a center hold from close range to significantly beyond 300 meters.
And my Tikka review:
“The fundamental cause of trouble in the world today is that the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt.”
— Bertrand Russell
Good guns, basically a scaled down/sporterized TRG.
I have an SWFA 6x scope on mine and without really trying I can get 10 shots into a ragged hole.
They are becoming less and less of a budget gun as their prices creep up, I got one for a bighorn hunt back in 2009 and it was 399.00 at sportsman’s (stainless) back in 2017 they had a price hike where they went up to about 750.00, you can find sales occasionally but expect to pay 7-750 for a stainless model. Now they are starting to build more tricked out options in the 1300.00 range.
IIRC, My T3x was around the $700 mark. Gander Mtn, surprisingly, had the best local price on them at the time.
Edit: IIRC, it was just over 700 OTD.
That was with 2 boxes of Silvertip 270Win & after tax, so I'm guessing sticker was in the low 600s.This message has been edited. Last edited by: P250UA5,
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I got mine during a Father’s Day Saale for about 700 dollars, that was right after the price increase in 2017, that sucked, one minute you could buy them for 550.00 all day long then at midnight they went to 750-850, no yo need to find a sale to get them for 700.
I don’t have a Tikka centerfire, I have the T1X in .22 and I really like it. Good quality, accurate and a good price.
"Shohna ba Shohna - Shoulder to Shoulder"
I just bought a Stainless CTR in 6.5 and put a KRG Bravo stock and Midas trigger on it. I haven't taken it out shooting yet, but the bolt is "buttery smooth" and I'm very impressed with the fit and Finnish (hee hee).
I use a 200 yard zero for my hunting rifles as well. Anything out to 300 yards is dead with the cross hair on it in the vital area. Finding different mil hash marks on a scope while an animal is running isn't a recipe for success, in my opinion.
I just re-zeroed mine to 200, since most shots at deer on our ranch are >100 yds. Puts me 1.5" high at 100.
Can't imagine the Tikka needing a new trigger, the OE trigger is fantastic out of the box, though I may lighten mine a bit with the factory adjustment.
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I've been a Tikka fan for a long time. I've been hunting with a couple of Tikka 595's for probably 20 years now.
My recent Tikka is for punching holes in paper and banging steel at some range, so I wanted a more appropriate trigger. The Midas trigger from KRG is very Sako TRG like which is what I was initially contemplating. It's dual stage and 1st/2nd pull rates are adjustable from the outside as well as overtravel. It also has a wide adjustable trigger shoe for the length of pull.
The factory single stage trigger was just fine and to lighten up is apparently quite easy with an aftermarket spring. I just went full retard on the trigger.
Gotcha, I've shot a member's F-Class FTR rifle, which IIRC, has a 1.5oz trigger
On the T3x, the trigger can be adjusted approx +/- 1lb with the OE adjustment.
The Enemy's gate is down.
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