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Finally have my first AR build complete and have seen it mentioned that lubrication on them is very important. Any recommendations for a website or video that does a good job explaining where and how much to do in order to have optimal operation?

Thanks in advance

PS If it helps I use Slip2000 products
 
Posts: 160 | Location: Twin Cities MN | Registered: April 21, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
semi-reformed sailor
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Here’s what I do, I use a spray can of oil. I spray everything inside and out until is running off, I wipe the outside off and stand it on a rag in the corner with the barrel down, then I leave it alone...of course I used to have to deal with guns on ships in a salt waters environment so I may get a little crazier than needs



"Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.”
― Robert A. Heinlein, Starship Troopers

 
Posts: 6641 | Location: Texas! | Registered: October 07, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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lightly coated with either Rem-Oil or Break Free -- whichever I have on-hand at the moment

bolt sprayed lightly as re-assembled into bolt carrier; bolt carrier / charging handle lightly sprayed as re-inserted into upper receiver

visibly 'wet' but not dripping

nothing special -- no need to over-think this

very good results with those products over the years

-------------------------------------


Proverbs 27:17 - As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another.
 
Posts: 7597 | Location: Florida | Registered: September 20, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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For starters just go online and look at the manual for any decent ar mfg. Check the lube section and you will get the basics. The colt one is online as are almost everyone else. with pictures and lube qty's. I'm sure there a decent section in ar15dot but I didn't check. In an ar too much is pretty much impossible...


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
Posts: 8162 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I use TM 9-1005-319-19, operator's manual for the M16A2/3/4 and M4. It says CLP (or LSA or LAW) with the amount, but I'm sure you can use the Slip2000 in its place.

Lube instructions start on page 97 on your screen. They use terms like "lightly" or "generously."

https://www.sterlingarsenal.co...or_Manual_-_2010.pdf
 
Posts: 14195 | Location: Eastern Iowa | Registered: May 21, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Old Air Cavalryman
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A quality gun oil is good, but I've found grease, ( Slide Glide lite is what I've been using for the last dozen or so years on my issue and personal ARs, ) to perform better in the long run than oil in many different climates around the world.

As far as where to lube, look for the areas that begin to show wear and concentrate lubrication there. Excess lube just leads to excess mess.

As was already posted, use the Army TM as a guide to the specific areas to lubricate to get you started.




"Also I heard the voice of the Lord saying who shall I send, and who will go for us? Then said I, here am I, send me."




 
Posts: 7262 | Location: Georgia | Registered: February 19, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Frenchy,

I found this to be a good read.

Pat Rogers - How to Lube AR-15


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Posts: 173 | Location: Greater New Orleans Area... see us on the news??? | Registered: October 17, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by awa762:
Hi Frenchy,

I found this to be a good read.

Pat Rogers - How to Lube AR-15


This is AR cleaning and lube gospel. Slip 2000 products are great. I’ve also become very fond of ALG Go Juice. It cuts carbon exceptionally well and stays in place as a lubricant.


---------------------------------------------
"AND YEA THOUGH THE HINDUS SPEAK OF KARMA, I IMPLORE YOU...GIVE HER A BREAK, LORD". - Clark W. Griswald
 
Posts: 2036 | Location: The South | Registered: September 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I've pretty much used synthetic motor oil exclusively in my AR the last few years. Never had any stoppages and I mostly shoot cheap steel case ammo except when zeroing or shooting for accuracy. Not sure if it's a factor at all but it also seems to be easier to remove the carbon from the tail of the bolt. Maybe additives in the oil help, maybe I'm just imagining it.



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Be sure and hit the gas rings with a drop of 2.


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Posts: 6386 | Location: Cantonment/Perdido Key, Florida | Registered: September 28, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It can't be lubed too much, just gets messy is all.

I like to put a dab of grease on the rails of the BCG and on the bottom center because it will last a lot longer than oil. Then, I just lube the upper with any oil, I also just use a 10W40 synthetic motor oil.

A squirt (a few drops) in the upper with the BCG retracted, close it and another squirt on the BCG, work it a few times with the charging handle.




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Posts: 4704 | Location: Oregon | Registered: October 02, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Search for AR15 lube chart and you will find a very good pictogram that shows you exactly what to lube and how much.


______________________________________________________
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Posts: 5575 | Location: Floriduh | Registered: October 16, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I appreciate the responses so far. Will look for a lube chart and have found the Pat Roger's article helpful as well
 
Posts: 160 | Location: Twin Cities MN | Registered: April 21, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Don’t overthink it. AR lubrication is easy - lube the areas of motion/friction. Re-lube often.

My evolution of the products I used from 1994 to present is: CLP, Tetra grease, synthetic motor oil, LaRue machinegunner’s lube, back to synthetic motor oil, Slip 2000, and now ALG Go Juice. I like Slip 2000 and ALG Go Juice the best. They are non-toxic, which is nice. Go Juice cuts carbon amazingly well, lubricates very well, and stays in place almost like grease (almost).


---------------------------------------------
"AND YEA THOUGH THE HINDUS SPEAK OF KARMA, I IMPLORE YOU...GIVE HER A BREAK, LORD". - Clark W. Griswald
 
Posts: 2036 | Location: The South | Registered: September 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Veteran of the
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Full disclosure:

I am a patrol rifle instructor, former infantryman, and someone who has run the AR in countless high-round count training activties. My opinion is based upon my experiences and those who I have trained with/under.


If this rifle is going to be a 'safe queen,' then following the military TM's and so forth will be fine for your needs...

However, if your rifle is a 'working' rifle and will be put thru its paces, then the following is a suggestion:

The AR/M16 runs like the proverbial top when properly lubricated, irrespective of the operating conditions. As previously noted, Pat Rogers (RIP) had several carbines that were never cleaned (tens of thousands of rounds through each of them) with nary a hiccup.

His secret?

Generously lube the weapon.

It is as simple as that. Use Breakfree, gun oil,
hi speed weapons lube, synthetic grease, motor oil, etc. Whatever lube you want. Use plenty of it.

Take your bolt assembly (bolt and bolt carrier) and lube as follows:

THE BOLT --- > it should have a good coat of lube on the portion that runs inside the carrier. This is the part of the bolt that reciprocates inside the bolt carrier, thus, the need for lube. It is optional to put a thin sheen of lube on the bolt lugs (that rotate inside the barrel extension).

THE CARRIER --- > There are four rails (two upper and two lower) on the exterior of the bolt carrier. These rails are what is in contact with the inside of the upper receiver. These rails need to be lubed. The underside of the carrier (that slides across the hammer, as the weapon cycles) needs to have lube; also put some on the hammer it self. The CAM PIN needs to be lubed; both the shaft of the pin and the flat 'top' of the pin. The top of the cam pin reciprocates inside the upper just above the ejection port. There will be some initial wear-in at that spot, but that is perfectly normal.

The overall outside of the carrier only needs a light coat of lube for corrosion resistance, it need not be wet. Remember, the carrier rides on those four rails and those rails need the most lube.

To sum it up, if you are only going to bust a mag (or two) at the local range, then you can pretty much leave the thing dry (rust not withstanding).

If you plan on doing serious work (combat, a carbine class, etc) and running a lot of rounds and getting your weapon HOT, then lube as indicated. And as JoshNC stated: Re-lube often.


__________________________
"just look at the flowers..."
 
Posts: 1161 | Location: Va | Registered: March 02, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Veteran of the
Psychic Wars
posted Hide Post
Full disclosure:

I am a patrol rifle instructor, former infantryman, and someone who has run the AR in countless high-round count training activties. My opinion is based upon my experiences and those who I have trained with/under.


If this rifle is going to be a 'safe queen,' then following the military TM's and so forth will be fine for your needs...

However, if your rifle is a 'working' rifle and will be put thru its paces, then the following is a suggestion:

The AR/M16 runs like the proverbial top when properly lubricated, irrespective of the operating conditions. As previously noted, Pat Rogers (RIP) had several carbines that were never cleaned (tens of thousands of rounds through each of them) with nary a hiccup.

His secret?

Generously lube the weapon.

It is as simple as that. Use Breakfree, gun oil,
hi speed weapons lube, synthetic grease, motor oil, etc. Whatever lube you want (EXCEPTION: NO WD40..it is not a lube). Use plenty of it.

Take your bolt assembly (bolt and bolt carrier) and lube as follows:

THE BOLT --- > it should have a good coat of lube on the portion that runs inside the carrier. This is the part of the bolt that reciprocates inside the bolt carrier, thus, the need for lube. It is optional to put a thin sheen of lube on the bolt lugs (that rotate inside the barrel extension).

THE CARRIER --- > There are four rails (two upper and two lower) on the exterior of the bolt carrier. These rails are what is in contact with the inside of the upper receiver. These rails need to be lubed. The underside of the carrier (that slides across the hammer, as the weapon cycles) needs to have lube; also put some on the hammer it self. The CAM PIN needs to be lubed; both the shaft of the pin and the flat 'top' of the pin. The top of the cam pin reciprocates inside the upper just above the ejection port. There will be some initial wear-in at that spot, but that is perfectly normal.

The overall outside of the carrier only needs a light coat of lube for corrosion resistance, it need not be wet. Remember, the carrier rides on those four rails and those rails need the most lube.

To sum it up, if you are only going to bust a mag (or two) at the local range, then you can pretty much leave the thing dry (rust not withstanding).

If you plan on doing serious work (combat, a carbine class, etc) and running a lot of rounds and getting your weapon HOT, then lube as indicated. And as JoshNC stated: Re-lube often.


__________________________
"just look at the flowers..."
 
Posts: 1161 | Location: Va | Registered: March 02, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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