PSA Is getting quite aggressive. I think it's all of a couple more weeks before I pull the trigger on an upper for them.

With that said I've got a couple questions:

1.) I've read mixed reports on whether you should be able to mix and match barrel and BCG. I.e. I'd be buying a PSA upper which I assume would be test fired, and potentially using my spare BCM BCG in it. I'm thinking I shouldn't run into any headspace issues, since they both seem to know what they're doing, but is that a general rule or does it vary?

2.) When it comes to PSA, obviously their CHF line is their best. The uppers I'm looking at mostly seem to come from the freedom line. There are nitride and stainless versions of the same uppers for virtually the same price. All other things being equal, is the stainless barrel the way to go in terms of value, or is there any benefit to the nitride versions?

If everything is Milspec it SHOULD go together and function normally. If you know someone with a set of Go and a No Go gauges, It takes less than 5 minutes to test. Almost any gun shop with a 'smith will be able to help. If you are going to build more ARs then purchasing the gauges might make sense.

Regarding the barrel, unless you are keeping/operating the gun in a high humidity environment or your are going to be shooting a very high volume of rounds or you are looking for the highest degree of precision, it doesn't matter which PSA barrel you choose.

What is the intended purpose for this build?

Henryrifle

I never fully know how to nicely say "why would any rational person who builds an AR from parts not check the headspace?!"
Sure with quality parts it might be ok and probably will be, but s*** happens even with quality parts.
Why on earth would you consider not doing at least a minimal safety check when a field gauge is $25.

As a former fan of stainless barrels, as nitride became more widely available, every barrel I have bought in the last 2 years has been nitride/melonite treated.


Superior hardness, lubricity, and corrosion resistance to bare stainless. Just as accurate, all else being equal. The Freedom line from Palmetto will treat you well.

quote:

Originally posted by henryrifle:
If everything is Milspec it SHOULD go together and function normally. If you know someone with a set of Go and a No Go gauges, It takes less than 5 minutes to test. Almost any gun shop with a 'smith will be able to help. If you are going to build more ARs then purchasing the gauges might make sense.

Regarding the barrel, unless you are keeping/operating the gun in a high humidity environment or your are going to be shooting a very high volume of rounds or you are looking for the highest degree of precision, it doesn't matter which PSA barrel you choose.

What is the intended purpose for this build?

Henryrifle

It's a general purpose rifle. Essentially a backup to the one I already have, but at a slightly lower cost.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
I never fully know how to nicely say "why would any rational person who builds an AR from parts not check the headspace?!"
Sure with quality parts it might be ok and probably will be, but s*** happens even with quality parts.
Why on earth would you consider not doing at least a minimal safety check when a field gauge is $25.

I guess it's not obvious from the title, couldn't figure how to word it. I've only previously bought complete uppers (assembled upper plus BCG/CH) and have never built one from scratch. This one, I'm not going to build from scratch either, but I already have a BCM BCG sitting in the 'gun bin' and plan on a non-standard charging handle of some kind so no need to spend the extra money for a complete one this time.

It seems, if cost is equal, that either Nitride or Stainless would fit the bill. I guess at that point it comes down to appearance, and I think I'd rather have less bling on a 'working' gun.

hrcjon is correct and I do have and use the go and no go gauge set. I neither want to mislead you or give you a false sense of security but I will say this. I have built a lot of ARs mostly in 5.56/.223 as well as a few in .308 and 6.5. Using barrels and bolts from reputable vendors, and I would certainly consider PSA a reputable vendor, I have never seen a bolt and barrel that failed the go/no go test.

I have a friend who built a dozen or more ARs during the recent bad years using the cheapest components he could find and DID end up with a few ARs that would not pass the go/no go test. It turned out to be the barrel/barrel extension which the manufacturer replaced. So, you can find some bad components from time to time. It is worth noting that I would have never used the barrels he purchased and I was not surprised that he found a problem.

The right thing to do is check the headspace. That is easy and likely inexpensive to do. These projects are serious and a mistake or out of spec component can result in severe to lethal consequences.

For a general purpose rifle, any of the PSA barrels should meet your needs.

Henryrifle

Before I muddle through 10 or 12 bad YouTube videos about how to check headspace, can someone recommend a link that provides a quick and easy tutorial?

quote:

Originally posted by BRL:
Before I muddle through 10 or 12 bad YouTube videos about how to check headspace, can someone recommend a link that provides a quick and easy tutorial?

Dunno if it id good. I used this video maker for lower build. linky

^^^ The problem with that video is hecassumes the viewer has a clue what the go gauge and no go gauge do or what he's doing with him. I do not fall into that category.

I'm sure there are a ton of good video's but I haven't needed one so I can't recommend something I used. But I have found the brownell's stuff to be good on many things so you might start here.
http://www.brownells.com/GunTe...detail.htm?lid=17140

At a practical level its really easy. Disassemble the bolt stuff the whole upper project back together and make sure you can close the bolt on a go and not on a no go. Takes literally a minute not including the bolt disassembly time.

Those daily PSA emails are tough aren't they? I don't need another AR, but that hasn't stopped me from buying a gun before! I really shouldn't even open the emails but prices are so good right now, it is a good time to be a buyer. I bought a Shield last week on the combined sale/rebate and I think about putting together a backup AR/ truck gun when I see those ads.

quote:

Originally posted by ibanda:
Those daily PSA emails are tough aren't they? I don't need another AR, but that hasn't stopped me from buying a gun before! I really shouldn't even open the emails but prices are so good right now, it is a good time to be a buyer. I bought a Shield last week on the combined sale/rebate and I think about putting together a backup AR/ truck gun when I see those ads.

Awful, just awful. The deals are just silly at this point especially comparing to what things went for back in 2012/2013.

the deals they have for complete freedom ARs with an XDS pistol for $800 with extra gear are just insane. Shame I hate the XD's.

quote:

Originally posted by BRL:
Before I muddle through 10 or 12 bad YouTube videos about how to check headspace, can someone recommend a link that provides a quick and easy tutorial?

buy a field or no go, USGI if you can find one, (check ebay)
they are cut so you can use them without taking the bolt apart,,

open rifle, as in you are going to remove the BCG,
drop gauge in the chamber
push the BCG until it stops,

carrier should be poking out the rear of the upper, if not, too much headspace

I've got a "GO" gauge for the 5.56, I can have it mailed to you if you like...

my email is in my profile...just out Sigforum in the header so it makes it thru the junk filter...

quote:

buy a field or no go, USGI if you can find one, (check ebay)
they are cut so you can use them without taking the bolt apart,,

Its hard to believe how stupid the other vendors are on this. But you can easily modify a standard one to be like the GI one with a tiny rebated cut.
That's what I actually do.

Well, I jumped. PSA finally got me.

Was originally looking at the blem stainless 16" midlength freedom upper at $189 sans BCG/CH. Found that would incur a $17 shipping cost, where the $199 non blem identical version had free shipping.

So it'll get my BCM BCG and a Strike charging handle and we'll see what happens. I may as well look for a gauge set just to be safe anyway.

quote:

All other things being equal, is the stainless barrel the way to go in terms of value, or is there any benefit to the nitride versions?

I think so if you are looking for an accuracy oriented barrel.
Virtually all the barrels I buy are SS Wylde units.

So, I picked up the last two pieces I needed to finish this as a fully functional AR. Obviously it isn't done yet, I plan on swapping the handguard for something else, and some type of red dot eventually.

For now, I was able to put together a complete, fully functional rifle for $479 including shipping charges on the various components. Build as follows:

-PSA 16" midlength stainless freedom upper w/ -classic handguards
-Anderson AM15 lower with built in trigger guard
-PSA EPT LPK with MOE+ grip
-Anderson buffer tube kit
-Strike Industries Viper mod1 stock
-Troy fixed dioptic rear battlesight
-BCM BCG
-Strike extended latch charging handle


Will post some pics when it all shows up and I get it put together.

See nothing wrong with your build. But if me, I would've gone with a .223 Wylde melonite barrel, good trigger, free float hand guard and lap the upper receiver before installing the barrel. But it really depends on the ammo you'll be shooting with your AR and how tight the groups will be.