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I'm looking for detailed complete disassembly/reassembly instructions for a full auto STGW 90 grip assembly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: MG34_Dan,


“Elections have consequences, and at the end of the day, I won.”
– Barack Hussein Obama, January 23, 2009
 
Posts: 1963 | Location: Austin Texas USA | Registered: February 03, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Dan, you will find the manual on biggerhammer.net. The assembly is explained in there step by step on the pages arond 140.
 
Posts: 3573 | Location: Switzerland | Registered: January 24, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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would pics help?
 
Posts: 1922 | Location: Leesburg VA | Registered: December 21, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by OTD:
Dan, you will find the manual on biggerhammer.net. The assembly is explained in there step by step on the pages around 140.


Got it. Thank you.

quote:
Originally posted by PGT:
would pics help?


Yes they would.


“Elections have consequences, and at the end of the day, I won.”
– Barack Hussein Obama, January 23, 2009
 
Posts: 1963 | Location: Austin Texas USA | Registered: February 03, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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sure thing. This was mine...traded to a friend and he sent me the pics tonight so if you need others, let me know and will see if he can oblige.



 
Posts: 1922 | Location: Leesburg VA | Registered: December 21, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PGT:
sure thing. This was mine...traded to a friend and he sent me the pics tonight so if you need others, let me know and will see if he can oblige.


Thank you. Your pictures should be more than enough.

I have a complete full auto parts kit and am trying how to convert the trigger pack to semi-auto only. But from my playing around, it looks like the full auto trip finger must be depressed even in semi mode in order to reset the trigger. I'll figure it out, eventually.


“Elections have consequences, and at the end of the day, I won.”
– Barack Hussein Obama, January 23, 2009
 
Posts: 1963 | Location: Austin Texas USA | Registered: February 03, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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my understanding is that you need three things; F/A lower, F/A bolt and the inside rail of the upper needs to be machined to allow the fingers of the F/A kit to work. You *should* be able to use that lower on a semi-upper as-is. That said, the US bolts are F/A - the Swiss ones are not unless surplus kits.

I've got some pics saved somewhere showing the upper and the bolt differences.

Obviously you don't want to accidentally step over the NFA line of course.
 
Posts: 1922 | Location: Leesburg VA | Registered: December 21, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Look what I just found on the inter-web.

quote:
Originally posted by bigbofo:
I can't feel any trigger difference between the PE90, the 550-1 and an original army version Stgw 90.

Here a PE 90:


Here a 550-1, which is the same as an army Stgw 90:


And here an army version which has been converted to semi-auto:



This is exactly what I was looking for. Now all I need are the specifics of the components.


“Elections have consequences, and at the end of the day, I won.”
– Barack Hussein Obama, January 23, 2009
 
Posts: 1963 | Location: Austin Texas USA | Registered: February 03, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Don’t over complicate this. The easiest solution is to pull all the FCG parts from the lower, set aside the fullauto sear, semiauto sear, burst mechanism cassette, and automatic sear release lever. Use a single semiauto sear, which takes up the same width of the dual semi/auto sear, replace all other parts. Another option is to mill off the catch surface from the automatic sear so that it functions as a spacer and no longer can catch the tail of the hammer, remove and do not reinstall the automatic sear release lever and burst mechanism cassette. I would personally keep the fullauto parts because they are becoming less easy to find, buy a shooting sight hammer and sear. It’s very simple. It may make more sense to discuss by phone. If you wish to do so, drop me an email through the board and I’ll get you my phone number.


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"AND YEA THOUGH THE HINDUS SPEAK OF KARMA, I IMPLORE YOU...GIVE HER A BREAK, LORD". - Clark W. Griswald
 
Posts: 2005 | Location: The South | Registered: September 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by JoshNC:
Don’t over complicate this. The easiest solution is to pull all the FCG parts from the lower, set aside the fullauto sear, semiauto sear, burst mechanism cassette, and automatic sear release lever. Use a single semiauto sear, which takes up the same width of the dual semi/auto sear, replace all other parts. Another option is to mill off the catch surface from the automatic sear so that it functions as a spacer and no longer can catch the tail of the hammer, remove and do not reinstall the automatic sear release lever and burst mechanism cassette. I would personally keep the fullauto parts because they are becoming less easy to find, buy a shooting sight hammer and sear. It’s very simple. It may make more sense to discuss by phone. If you wish to do so, drop me an email through the board and I’ll get you my phone number.


Josh; Thank you very much for this information. I didn't know Shooting Sight existed. Use of their hammer and sear is definitely the way to go as I do not want to damage the original SIG full auto components.


“Elections have consequences, and at the end of the day, I won.”
– Barack Hussein Obama, January 23, 2009
 
Posts: 1963 | Location: Austin Texas USA | Registered: February 03, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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