I realize in the past this has probably been beat to death on this and countless other forums, but would appreciate input.
Having freed myself from the yoke of oppression that is New York and now living in the free state of Arizona, I am looking to put together another rifle. I happen to have a spare complete upperso need a lower. Prices are about as good as they can get right now ( cheaper than my first build in 1990!) many say lowers are pretty much the same and regardless of who’s name is on it only are produced by a handful of companies. Is any one that much better than the next?
My upper is a complete noveske built and barreled unit, and have considered a noveske lower but they are about 60% more than a ruger or spikes or dpms etc. what is the prevailing opinion

My opinion is you are correct. 90% are in spec and made equal to each other. 5% might be better and the other 5% not. I pretty much buy lowers based on how much I like the logo these days. Lower parts kits....im a little more critical of place of origin.

I prefer Mega forges lowers. Nice marking, quality manufacturing, not as bargain bin as some but reasonable at around $110.

I'm partial to AERO or Ballistic Advantage lowers...I've been satisfied with the finish and quality with both (Ballistc Advantage is owned by AERO)...I like the fact that both have the Allen screw to take up any play between the upper and lower if any exist (the play bugs some folks even if it doesn't really affect anything) and the rear takedown spring hole is threaded for a 4-40 setscrew...just a couple of little extras that are neat (even if not really needed)...

Locally, they run around $80 with tax and BG check...

I also like the AERO lower parts kits...I've used two...both came without the grip and trigger group for $30...I used either RRA match or Toms Tactical nickle Teflon triggers so trigger groups were not needed

https://aeroprecisionusa.com/ar15-lpk-minus.html

i am in the camp of a stick, on site built home vs a mobile/manufactured home. It is always going to be what it is. Nothing can change that.

Same on lowers. I want something that is quality and somewhat name recognition. While there might not be anything wrong with the $49 stripped lowers. I will take something that I recognize as an established gun industry icon every single time. Not a snob, but this is how I roll.

Pretty sure you can get a complete quality factory lower for under $200, maybe $150.

quote:

Originally posted by WARPIG602:
My opinion is you are correct. 90% are in spec and made equal to each other. 5% might be better and the other 5% not. I pretty much buy lowers based on how much I like the logo these days. Lower parts kits....im a little more critical of place of origin.

I take the same approach. Two of my rifles are based on Anderson and Spikes lowers purchased on the cheap at gun shows. The third is based a Detroit Gun Works lower purchased locally for a bit more. Parts kits for all three was by DPMS and triggers on all three are Timney 3 lbs. single stage drop in units. Also spent time with a 2mm diamond ball in a Dremel putting small ramps for the detents on the Pivot and Takedown pins so they release with a firm push without the need for any tool. Also installed KNS Trigger Pin kits because I think they look cool and I'm a bit Belt and Suspenders about things like pins that could "shoot loose".

So, 3 lowers of different brands, all advertised as Mil Spec. and using identical parts kits I could not see one single discernible difference in how everything went together.

As for Uppers, there I am considerably more picky. Specifically in regards to the barrel extension to receiver fit. The first rifle I put together featured a 20 inch Shilen 223 Wylde barrel in a Gibbz Arms Side charging G4 Upper and the fit of barrel extension was so perfect it took some light taps with a nylon hammer to get it seated in the last 1/4 inch. I suspect that one reason why this particular rifle shoots sub 3/10 at 100 yards is due to this exceptional fit. My next build was a 300 Blackout and I operated on the assumption that every "Mil Spec" upper would have the fit quality of that Gibbz Arms Upper. Learned that wasn't the case, you get what you pay for unless you do some very selective shopping. The fit between my DGW upper and Wilson Combat 16 inch 300 BLK barrel extension was so sloppy I had to hand cut 0.0015 stainless shim stock and use a bit of red locktight to get a good fit. Third rifle was a 16 inch Carbine in 223 Wylde with a Mid Length gas system barrel by Rainier Arms and I took that barrel to a gun show and proceeded to test fit in every upper reciever I saw until I found one that fit well. Btw that was a Spikes upper and the 3rd receiver that I checked at that particular dealer.

Note, Gibbz Arms is located in Arizona and I can tell you that I have used Gibbz Handguards on all 3 of my builds. Because I do not think that there is any other make of handguard that features the superb design of the Gibbz Handguard Mounting system, Makes it very very easy to torque the nut to spec using a crowfoot and torque wrench and there is not fiddling at all with trying to align the gas tube with the notches in the standard style barrel nut. Since you are in Arizona I would suggest a call to Gibbz and asking for a short tour just to see how slickly they have designed their handguard mounting system. I also really like their side charger but since my Carbines are both iron sighted I really didn't need a side charger and wanted to save a bit on the smaller rifles.

Here is lower with some cool rollmarks

quote:

Originally posted by David W:
Here is lower with some cool rollmarks

I have a color marked one inbound for my 3 year old daughter. My 2 boys 8 and 5 got Spartans for their 16in guns and Punishers for their 20in.