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I just installed an RRA 2 stage match trigger Login/Join 
Member
Picture of valkyrie1
posted
on a DD5 v3 and the trigger works fine without the safety. Install safety and it looks like the rear of the trigger does not move up enough to release the hammer. I can get it to fire but have to pull the trigger hard all the way back, do I need to file down the flat ledge of the safety or the rear top of the trigger where it makes contact. Springs are installed correctly etc..
 
Posts: 1964 | Location: Florida | Registered: March 01, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Unknown
Stuntman
Picture of bionic218
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I had a similar issue at one point, and if I recall correctly, I had the disconnector spring in upside down, and it became trapped in the trigger tunnel (groove on top) and would not release. Any chance that's it?

I would start by taking the trigger group/assy apart and reinstalling before I filed anything. Worst case scenario, you waste 15 minutes. Best case, you find the issue and resolve it.
 
Posts: 10380 | Location: missouri | Registered: October 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
fugitive from reality
Picture of SgtGold
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I assume the trigger worked correctly before you installed the RRA parts? If so I would measure the height of the rear of the trigger compared to the part you replaced. If the RRA unit is taller, there's your problem. If everything was working before, I'd would make changes to the RRA part and not the safety selector switch.


_____________________________
'I'm pretty fly for a white guy'.

 
Posts: 6720 | Location: Newyorkistan | Registered: March 28, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of valkyrie1
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Original worked fine. Member was kind enough to offer the RRA for free so I'll check the spring. Put the rifle back together and it does fire but the trigger has zero over travel,take up is normal but have to pull the trigger way too hard to release the hammered. Feels great without the safety.. Will try the spring and check the height..
 
Posts: 1964 | Location: Florida | Registered: March 01, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of kimberkid
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quote:
Originally posted by valkyrie1:
Original worked fine. Member was kind enough to offer the RRA for free so I'll check the spring. Put the rifle back together and it does fire but the trigger has zero over travel,take up is normal but have to pull the trigger way too hard to release the hammered. Feels great without the safety.. Will try the spring and check the height..

We don't need no stinking safety ... (spoken with a early spaghetti western Mexican drawl)

Okay ... back to reality.

I've installed several RRA 2-stage triggers and never had an issue, however the above advise is what I'd do ... if the RRA is out of spec, correct it, not the safety.


If you really want something you'll find a way ...
... if you don't you'll find an excuse.

I'm really not a "kid" anymore ... but I haven't grown up yet either Wink
 
Posts: 5313 | Registered: January 11, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of valkyrie1
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by kimberkid:
quote:
Originally posted by valkyrie1:
Original worked fine. Member was kind enough to offer the RRA for free so I'll check the spring. Put the rifle back together and it does fire but the trigger has zero over travel,take up is normal but have to pull the trigger way too hard to release the hammered. Feels great without the safety.. Will try the spring and check the height..
Thanks for the tip
We don't need no stinking safety ... (spoken with a early spaghetti western Mexican drawl)

Okay ... back to reality.

I've installed several RRA 2-stage triggers and never had an issue, however the above advise is what I'd do ... if the RRA is out of spec, correct it, not the safety.
 
Posts: 1964 | Location: Florida | Registered: March 01, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Rustpot
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There are a few factors to consider before you modify parts.

I would inspect the lower with the upper removed, looking down into the FCG and see if the tail of the trigger is centered below the safety. See if the trigger can pivot side to side slightly, or move laterally in the pocket of the lower. Trigger shims are a thing to correct fit/tolerance issues between the lower and trigger.

Measure the walls of the lower to see if there is a large difference that can push the trigger to one side.

Trigger pin bore in the lower vs. trigger pin OD may be enough to allow it to cant. The bore in the trigger may be too large for the trigger pin.

Safety bore can be oversized, crooked, or otherwise out of spec that would allow the safety to cant slightly and cause binding.

Just because the last set of parts worked together does not mean all of those parts were correct and in-spec. Just because the new parts don't work doesn't make them out of spec.
 
Posts: 5876 | Location: Romeo, MI | Registered: January 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of valkyrie1
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Rustpot:
There are a few factors to consider before you modify parts.

I would inspect the lower with the upper removed, looking down into the FCG and see if the tail of the trigger is centered below the safety. See if the trigger can pivot side to side slightly, or move laterally in the pocket of the lower. Trigger shims are a thing to correct fit/tolerance issues between the lower and trigger.

Measure the walls of the lower to see if there is a large difference that can push the trigger to one side.

Trigger pin bore in the lower vs. trigger pin OD may be enough to allow it to cant. The bore in the trigger may be too large for the trigger pin.

Safety bore can be oversized, crooked, or otherwise out of spec that would allow the safety to cant slightly and cause binding.

Just because the last set of parts worked together does not mean all of those parts were correct and in-spec. Just because the new parts don't work doesn't make them out of spec.
Thank you...
 
Posts: 1964 | Location: Florida | Registered: March 01, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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