Thank you to everyone for their responses I really appreciate it.
So no porting, but I do love the flamethrower photos though.
Rubber grips, I am looking at them now and Hogue has a lot of different models to choose from.
4MUL8R, I think you are right about what I should do first cause the refinisher that I contacted said not to cerakote it. The model on the handgun is 29-3, I did a serial number search it appears to be a "Lew Horton". Not sure if that really changes the value especially due to condition.
On the grips, the ones I posted from Smith have the backstrap covered.
Some do not.
And then think about that Alaska-style chest rig that I posted.
You will need a holster that will get that 44 deployed quickly.
I have a Diamond D, but I think the Kenai is faster.
|Not really from Vienna|
Factory wood combat grips like those regularly sell for $275, just FYI.
A chest holster would be nice. Simply Rugged makes one that people favor for large scoped revolvers. Perhaps one of SF's leather craftsmen makes them also.
Lew Horton is a distributor of S&W revolvers. A Lew Horton Special is a limited edition run of firearms, meeting their design criteria. S&W reportedly will make within reason specials for large distributors.
I enjoy making my kit to suit me. I try to keep things reasonable, and not abuse collectible items. So, if you were to have the item refinished in a nice nickel, or reblued, or something in keeping with its nature, that would be wonderful in my book. You never get out of it what you put into it. So, you have to make sure it is righteous.
If you haven't checked the revolver timing, you may want to do so. If you haven't evaluated the forcing cone, ditto. There are loads of articles on how to check, and how to fix such matters. Here, a real revolver smith would be ideal, should you find something akimbo.
Grips are sometimes serial numbered to the revolver. Usually inside the grip panel. So, you may want to check on that. As heavy as the N-frame is, I don't worry about recoil forces with wood grips.
Again, the forum that studies on this brand is the best source of info. You can probably find it with a few keystrokes. If someone would pay you a lot of money for it, as is, due to their preference, or their desire to have a specific model, you may be in good shape. There are several 629 or similar from which to choose for JIC.
NRA Life Member
That looks good.
Covers the backstrap, look like.
How does it fasten, I don't see the typical mid-grip screw ?
I wonder how it compares to the current S&W rubber grip that I posted above ?
I have that S&W and I might like those finger grooves of the Hogue.
The grips you posted are for the 629, will it fit the same?
The holster was a great idea, thank you. Kittery Trading Post had them in-stock and I picked one up. I haven't had a chance to put it on yet but it looks amazing. I think your 100% hundred right cause when sitting in my SXS it will be so much easier to grab.
I posted it over there as you suggested, I only paid $600 for the gun so I am going to look at picking up another one. Then send off for a LOA from Smith and Wesson Historical.
Cause upon further inspection (Thank you Larry Potterfield) as you suggested the
lock-up is solid very little movement
timing is perfect
the forcing cone has no marks, rust or splitting
|The Great Equalizer|
As to porting, it is a routinely misunderstood concept that really polarizes the discussion Forums.
If you already own Mag-na-Ported revolvers and have a realistic view of what to expect, then go ahead and port the gun. If you have never fired a ported revolver, or expect that it will reduce recoil you should hold off on porting until you can try a gun or two first.
I like pretty guns as well, and there is nothing wrong with wanting pretty. I have no experience with the refinisher in question. If they are local to you, stop by and look at a few examples of their handy work up close and see how you like it.
As has already been mentioned, this is going to be a working gun, carried in an less than perfect environment. I might consider a nickel finish, or for real durability . . . Hard Chrome. However, that should be your call
NRA Benefactor . . . Certified Instructor . . . Certified RSO
I the exact revolver. The carbon steel model 29 variants had the barrel screwed in and rarely were the timed correctly resulting in canted barrel. The two I own are canted, but it doesn't effects accuracy. I'm curious what your serial number starts with. The two I own and every example I encounter start with ALB. My research has determined that at least 5000 were made. Possibly more.
|The Ice Cream Man|
A) I have a 329 NG for that role. Nifty gun for the purpose. I’d try to find a lighter one, and leave that beauty alone...or sell it to me
B) I have a ported 625. It doesn’t do much with regular loads, but it does seem to help with heavy loads from Double tap. (It’s like a compensator on an open gun, you will need gas to drive it)
C) The hogue rubber grips for the X frame fit on n frames. That’s what I put on the NG.
D) Use 222MS loctite on every screw, including the ones retaining the sight.
E) Do not shoot a match with full 44 mag hunting loads out of an air weight gun, even with the rubber grips, when your buddy “forgets” the 44 specials he was supposed to bring with him.
looks to be quite a bit of pitting on the frame and barrel, if you want to get rid of that then having it re-blued is probably a good idea to help it last. Rust is an enemy you don't want
Since its an older model smith send it off the S&W, they don't do the old blue anymore I believe the color will be different but it will look great
They fit N-frame round butt which is the current N-frame.
Early N-frames are square butt.
You can takes your grips off to verify what you have.
Many Alaskan guides use that chest rig because it just works.
Bead blasting and hard chrome or similar would tempt me. But I suggest you shoot it a LOT before you do that. No point in taking a collectible gun (even rusty) and spending money on it which will improve it, but probably not it's value, only to learn you don't like it and sell it.
Sliced bread, the greatest thing since the 1911.
Agree with no porting, no bluing. Get rubber grips and go practice.
Glock Certified Armorer
NRA Certified Firearms Instructor
Here's an idea. Get it re-blued AFTER your Alaska hunting trip. That way you can enjoy it more and beat the crap out of it. I hear it rains a lot in Alaska too... Think about it.
|His diet consists of black|
coffee, and sarcasm.
IMO, the left side of the gun has too much pitting, probably due to being carried close to a sweaty body, to re-blue and still look good (i.e., the pits removed). Too much metal would have to be removed in the polishing process.
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