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SW 44mag, new gun to me. Couple questions? Login/Join 
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Picture of GroundedCLK
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Thank you to everyone for their responses I really appreciate it.

So no porting, but I do love the flamethrower photos though.

Rubber grips, I am looking at them now and Hogue has a lot of different models to choose from.
 
Posts: 1768 | Location: New Hampshire | Registered: January 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of GroundedCLK
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quote:
Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
Looking at the sideplate screws, it appears that they are not deformed by improper use of a non-fitting screwdriver. This is good.

Looking at the hammer, it appears that the hammer is a firing pin mounted case hardened item. This is good.

You may have a collectible revolver. Check on that. There is a forum for this brand on which many people can advise.

If you have a collectible, and don't want a collectible, you could always sell it or trade it for a modern stainless S&W. If you found one pre-lock, say a 629, you would then have a nice JIC item.



4MUL8R, I think you are right about what I should do first cause the refinisher that I contacted said not to cerakote it. The model on the handgun is 29-3, I did a serial number search it appears to be a "Lew Horton". Not sure if that really changes the value especially due to condition.
 
Posts: 1768 | Location: New Hampshire | Registered: January 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by GroundedCLK:
Thank you to everyone for their responses I really appreciate it.

So no porting, but I do love the flamethrower photos though.

Rubber grips, I am looking at them now and Hogue has a lot of different models to choose from.

On the grips, the ones I posted from Smith have the backstrap covered.
Some do not.

And then think about that Alaska-style chest rig that I posted.
You will need a holster that will get that 44 deployed quickly.

I have a Diamond D, but I think the Kenai is faster.
 
Posts: 303 | Registered: November 03, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Not really from Vienna
Picture of arfmel
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Factory wood combat grips like those regularly sell for $275, just FYI.





 
Posts: 25157 | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of 4MUL8R
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A chest holster would be nice. Simply Rugged makes one that people favor for large scoped revolvers. Perhaps one of SF's leather craftsmen makes them also.

Lew Horton is a distributor of S&W revolvers. A Lew Horton Special is a limited edition run of firearms, meeting their design criteria. S&W reportedly will make within reason specials for large distributors.

I enjoy making my kit to suit me. I try to keep things reasonable, and not abuse collectible items. So, if you were to have the item refinished in a nice nickel, or reblued, or something in keeping with its nature, that would be wonderful in my book. You never get out of it what you put into it. So, you have to make sure it is righteous.

If you haven't checked the revolver timing, you may want to do so. If you haven't evaluated the forcing cone, ditto. There are loads of articles on how to check, and how to fix such matters. Here, a real revolver smith would be ideal, should you find something akimbo.

Grips are sometimes serial numbered to the revolver. Usually inside the grip panel. So, you may want to check on that. As heavy as the N-frame is, I don't worry about recoil forces with wood grips.

Again, the forum that studies on this brand is the best source of info. You can probably find it with a few keystrokes. If someone would pay you a lot of money for it, as is, due to their preference, or their desire to have a specific model, you may be in good shape. There are several 629 or similar from which to choose for JIC.


NRA Life Member
 
Posts: 3607 | Location: Commonwealth of Virginia | Registered: January 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PaPaP226:
Shoot it. Bears don't care about pretty blueing.
I absolutely love SW combat grips but not on a 44 mag. Get you a set of the Hogue recoil absorbing 500 grips. They done list them as fitting the rb frames but they do. Contact Ken@Hogue to verify fitment. I put them on my 629 44 mag and they were worth it but still ended up selling it as i felt with every shot that my wrists were going to suffer permanent damage. Double up on hearing protection also. Did like its range clearing abilities though. Worked every time!


https://www.hogueinc.com/handg...rsion-monogrip-black
 
Posts: 174 | Location: Mansfield, TX | Registered: April 08, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by bigguy:
quote:
Originally posted by PaPaP226:
Shoot it. Bears don't care about pretty blueing.
I absolutely love SW combat grips but not on a 44 mag. Get you a set of the Hogue recoil absorbing 500 grips. They done list them as fitting the rb frames but they do. Contact Ken@Hogue to verify fitment. I put them on my 629 44 mag and they were worth it but still ended up selling it as i felt with every shot that my wrists were going to suffer permanent damage. Double up on hearing protection also. Did like its range clearing abilities though. Worked every time!


https://www.hogueinc.com/handg...rsion-monogrip-black

That looks good.
Covers the backstrap, look like.
How does it fasten, I don't see the typical mid-grip screw ?

I wonder how it compares to the current S&W rubber grip that I posted above ?
I have that S&W and I might like those finger grooves of the Hogue.
 
Posts: 303 | Registered: November 03, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of GroundedCLK
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quote:
Originally posted by DirectDrive:
quote:
Originally posted by bigguy:
quote:
Originally posted by PaPaP226:
Shoot it. Bears don't care about pretty blueing.
I absolutely love SW combat grips but not on a 44 mag. Get you a set of the Hogue recoil absorbing 500 grips. They done list them as fitting the rb frames but they do. Contact Ken@Hogue to verify fitment. I put them on my 629 44 mag and they were worth it but still ended up selling it as i felt with every shot that my wrists were going to suffer permanent damage. Double up on hearing protection also. Did like its range clearing abilities though. Worked every time!


https://www.hogueinc.com/handg...rsion-monogrip-black

That looks good.
Covers the backstrap, look like.
How does it fasten, I don't see the typical mid-grip screw ?

I wonder how it compares to the current S&W rubber grip that I posted above ?
I have that S&W and I might like those finger grooves of the Hogue.


The grips you posted are for the 629, will it fit the same?

The holster was a great idea, thank you. Kittery Trading Post had them in-stock and I picked one up. I haven't had a chance to put it on yet but it looks amazing. I think your 100% hundred right cause when sitting in my SXS it will be so much easier to grab.
 
Posts: 1768 | Location: New Hampshire | Registered: January 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of GroundedCLK
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
A chest holster would be nice. Simply Rugged makes one that people favor for large scoped revolvers. Perhaps one of SF's leather craftsmen makes them also.

Lew Horton is a distributor of S&W revolvers. A Lew Horton Special is a limited edition run of firearms, meeting their design criteria. S&W reportedly will make within reason specials for large distributors.

I enjoy making my kit to suit me. I try to keep things reasonable, and not abuse collectible items. So, if you were to have the item refinished in a nice nickel, or reblued, or something in keeping with its nature, that would be wonderful in my book. You never get out of it what you put into it. So, you have to make sure it is righteous.

If you haven't checked the revolver timing, you may want to do so. If you haven't evaluated the forcing cone, ditto. There are loads of articles on how to check, and how to fix such matters. Here, a real revolver smith would be ideal, should you find something akimbo.

Grips are sometimes serial numbered to the revolver. Usually inside the grip panel. So, you may want to check on that. As heavy as the N-frame is, I don't worry about recoil forces with wood grips.

Again, the forum that studies on this brand is the best source of info. You can probably find it with a few keystrokes. If someone would pay you a lot of money for it, as is, due to their preference, or their desire to have a specific model, you may be in good shape. There are several 629 or similar from which to choose for JIC.


I posted it over there as you suggested, I only paid $600 for the gun so I am going to look at picking up another one. Then send off for a LOA from Smith and Wesson Historical.

Cause upon further inspection (Thank you Larry Potterfield) as you suggested the

lock-up is solid very little movement
timing is perfect
the forcing cone has no marks, rust or splitting
 
Posts: 1768 | Location: New Hampshire | Registered: January 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Great Equalizer
Picture of colt_saa
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quote:
Originally posted by GroundedCLK:
I recently purchased a Can-Am Maverick Trail and have scheduled a camping trip up in the Northern woods. This will be my first trip out with it and my first time up in the woods. There has been a lot of bear sightings so I wanted to pick up a 44 magnum as a JIC gun. Also always wanted one and this seem liked the appropriate time to buy one. The gun was a neglected just a bit and I would like to get it re-blued. Does anyone have experience with doing so? Would you send the gun out to Mag na port and have them port it? What about Precision Bluing? Their work looks awesome, and the write-up is great very descriptive.

As to porting, it is a routinely misunderstood concept that really polarizes the discussion Forums.



If you already own Mag-na-Ported revolvers and have a realistic view of what to expect, then go ahead and port the gun. If you have never fired a ported revolver, or expect that it will reduce recoil you should hold off on porting until you can try a gun or two first.

I like pretty guns as well, and there is nothing wrong with wanting pretty. I have no experience with the refinisher in question. If they are local to you, stop by and look at a few examples of their handy work up close and see how you like it.

As has already been mentioned, this is going to be a working gun, carried in an less than perfect environment. I might consider a nickel finish, or for real durability . . . Hard Chrome. However, that should be your call


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Posts: 4863 | Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida | Registered: November 04, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of swage
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I the exact revolver. The carbon steel model 29 variants had the barrel screwed in and rarely were the timed correctly resulting in canted barrel. The two I own are canted, but it doesn't effects accuracy. I'm curious what your serial number starts with. The two I own and every example I encounter start with ALB. My research has determined that at least 5000 were made. Possibly more.
 
Posts: 1837 | Location: Ohio | Registered: October 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Ice Cream Man
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A) I have a 329 NG for that role. Nifty gun for the purpose. I’d try to find a lighter one, and leave that beauty alone...or sell it to me

B) I have a ported 625. It doesn’t do much with regular loads, but it does seem to help with heavy loads from Double tap. (It’s like a compensator on an open gun, you will need gas to drive it)

C) The hogue rubber grips for the X frame fit on n frames. That’s what I put on the NG.

D) Use 222MS loctite on every screw, including the ones retaining the sight.

E) Do not shoot a match with full 44 mag hunting loads out of an air weight gun, even with the rubber grips, when your buddy “forgets” the 44 specials he was supposed to bring with him.
 
Posts: 3920 | Location: Republic of Ice Cream, Myrtle Beach, SC | Registered: May 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Thank you
Very little
Picture of HRK
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looks to be quite a bit of pitting on the frame and barrel, if you want to get rid of that then having it re-blued is probably a good idea to help it last. Rust is an enemy you don't want

Since its an older model smith send it off the S&W, they don't do the old blue anymore I believe the color will be different but it will look great



 
Posts: 15220 | Location: FL | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by GroundedCLK:

The grips you posted are for the 629, will it fit the same?

They fit N-frame round butt which is the current N-frame.
Early N-frames are square butt.
You can takes your grips off to verify what you have.
https://www.midwestgunworks.co.../mgwi/prod/413870000

quote:
The holster was a great idea, thank you. Kittery Trading Post had them in-stock and I picked one up. I haven't had a chance to put it on yet but it looks amazing. I think your 100% hundred right cause when sitting in my SXS it will be so much easier to grab.

Many Alaskan guides use that chest rig because it just works.
 
Posts: 303 | Registered: November 03, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
"Member"
Picture of cas
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Bead blasting and hard chrome or similar would tempt me. But I suggest you shoot it a LOT before you do that. No point in taking a collectible gun (even rusty) and spending money on it which will improve it, but probably not it's value, only to learn you don't like it and sell it.


_____________________________________________________
Sliced bread, the greatest thing since the 1911.

 
Posts: 17808 | Location: 18th & Fairfax  | Registered: May 17, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of ruger357
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Agree with no porting, no bluing. Get rubber grips and go practice.


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Posts: 7079 | Location: Hoover, AL | Registered: November 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
NOT compromised!
Picture of SIGWALLY
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Here's an idea. Get it re-blued AFTER your Alaska hunting trip. That way you can enjoy it more and beat the crap out of it. I hear it rains a lot in Alaska too... Think about it.
 
Posts: 1278 | Location: Tampa Bay, Florida | Registered: July 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
His diet consists of black
coffee, and sarcasm.
Picture of egregore
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IMO, the left side of the gun has too much pitting, probably due to being carried close to a sweaty body, to re-blue and still look good (i.e., the pits removed). Too much metal would have to be removed in the polishing process.
 
Posts: 23829 | Location: Johnson City/Elizabethton, TN | Registered: April 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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