for many decades it was SOP in the Marine Corp to use water resistant white lithium grease on the M1 Garand and other automatic firearms. My brother was a Marine and he turned me onto the Lithium grease in the 50's and I have not used anything else and you will not find any rust or excess wear on any of my guns. You guys can buy all the latest fancy grease and spend a fortune and I will use my lithium white grease. One medium sized tube will last me 10 years or more.
Posts: 1615 | Location: owosso,Mi. USA | Registered: August 18, 2002
Originally posted by skyshark: The Lucas grease is some good stuff. If you want to save a few bucks you can buy a 14oz. tube of their marine grease for around seven bucks. I got mine at O'Riley auto parts. It's the same grease(minus the grape sent)they package in a 1OZ.tube and charge $10 for. Go to the Lucas wesite and compare the TDS for each and you'll see.
I read the data sheet too, and it really does look like the same product to me. I could not find any at NAPA, Autozone, Walmart, BiMart, or O'Reilly's. I finally scored some at Home Depot, of all places.
------------------------------ "You don't fuck with the eagles unless you know how to fly." - John "Bluto" Blutarsky
Posts: 2104 | Location: OR-ee-GUN | Registered: December 18, 2005
Mr Flork: I have no desire to open a debate on grease vs oil but would like to ask a question. I have been using oil for many years but have no background on oil vs grease. My question is: will the use of oil, say 20w50 synthetic harm my P 226 Stainless Elite? If so, I will gladly convert to grease.
Flork, thanks for the heads up on the grease, I've been using Gun Butter for a while now with good result, but I just got a new Legion p226 SAO, and I want to start it out the right way, so I'm glad I joined this forum and saw your post...
Posts: 249 | Location: Grant Pass, Oregon | Registered: April 26, 2016
One of the instructors at the range my father goes to suggested powdered graphite lubricant(comes in a tube, found it at Walmart) to use on the magazines for lubrication. Has anyone ever heard of this? All my reading and I haven't.
Sure granite is a dry lube and the messiest stuff out there. I've used it on zippers, pinewood derby cars, It works kinda of low viscosity. On a magazine your talking big mess. There are dry lubes made by gun chemical company's that are cleaner.Actually I have graphite in my gun tool kit, just because I had it.
Originally posted by bendable: I've read this for the third time now since it was originally posted.
Out of curiosity I checked four gun magazines for grease articles or vendors ., I found six oil ads, and 7 cleaning fluid ads, but not one grease ad or article.
Why aren't more people jumping on the grease bandwagon?
There have been significant advancements over the years and especially with the CLP (clean, lube, protect) type products like G96 and Ballistol that will outperform grease (for small firearms, not railroad cars) and not be a magnet for dirt and grime. I'm not realizing the "C" part of CLP and still use a bore solvent like Hoppes9 but the penetrating properties of the newer synthetic oils is pretty amazing. Just spray it, let it sit and wipe it off. Take a new Sig out of the box and rack the slide. Now clean all the factory stuff off and treat it with Ballistol type product in the right places and then rack the slide. The difference is dramatic.
Been using TW25B because SIG recommended it. Now SIG recommends Lucas. One of my guns (P226) has over 27,000 rounds through it and the frame has no visible wear, other than a couple of shiny spots on the top about an inch from the front - using TW25B I'm open to anything better. I use CLP to clean, then use 91% rubbing alcohol to degrease, then the TW25B. Anyone see any potential problem with this procedure, please advise.
I like Microlon Ultra blue for cold weather, and Slip 2000 grease for warm weather. Slip 2000 gun oil works well also... Depends on the gun and what it likes. My Sig 1911 is very picky about what I lube it with, my Sig 220's not so much...but I stay with one of the afor mentioned lubes. They work.
I recall a SIG Academy class I was at with a few members here that Bruce G taught. Before we hit the line, we all had to go thru a lubricant rail check. Grease it was! I keep all my rails lubed with grease and oil the remainder of the internals. I listen to people of greater knowledge than I !
-------------------------------------------------------2/28/2015 ~ Rest in peace Dad. Lt Commander E.G.E. USN Love you.
Posts: 4824 | Location: Great State of NH | Registered: January 29, 2004
Originally posted by Brewer3401: Been using TW25B because SIG recommended it. Now SIG recommends Lucas. One of my guns (P226) has over 27,000 rounds through it and the frame has no visible wear, other than a couple of shiny spots on the top about an inch from the front - using TW25B I'm open to anything better. I use CLP to clean, then use 91% rubbing alcohol to degrease, then the TW25B. Anyone see any potential problem with this procedure, please advise.
27,000 rounds with no visible wear seems like you answered your own question. TW25B for me.
Robert Burke sent me a tube of Super Lube with a gun he returned to me. NLGI 2, synthetic with PTFE. I've been using it on slide/frame rails exclusively. It is clear, not messy, and sticks around well. I realize there are lots of products out there that do the same, and I've used many of them, but this is one of the "cleanest" I've yet used.
Posts: 8529 | Location: South Congress AZ | Registered: May 27, 2006