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Picture of SilverWolf
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SIG Tech said FrogLube was all I need. They were right. Although it is much cheaper, and easy to clean after shooting, with rubbing alcohol versus the Frog Lube solvent. Wink
 
Posts: 2425 | Location: Florida | Registered: September 21, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I am biased, but swear by Mil-Comm MC25 pH neutral cleaner, followed up with their TW25B grease and/or MC2500 oil. C+LP works best.

TW25B is the official lubricant of SigSauer.
Any other company's claim is fraudulent, at best.

There are a bunch of nice products out there -- just pick one and don't mix different company's products together. you shouldn't have to, and you don't know what the interactions could be.
 
Posts: 159 | Location: hawthorne, new jersey, usa | Registered: February 14, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Posted November 17, 2012 07:34 AM Hide Post
I am biased, but swear by Mil-Comm MC25 pH neutral cleaner, followed up with their TW25B grease and/or MC2500 oil. C+LP works best.

TW25B is the official lubricant of SigSauer.


Actually "TW-25B or a like lubricant" is recommended by SIG for "all stainless models"...there is nothing "official" about it. I have no idea if it is a good or a bad product having never used it - but their self promotion is a little over the top.

We agree that there are a number of nice products - the issue to me remains selecting the proper viscosity for the gun/conditions. I have just finished a series of experiments that prove, to my own satisfaction, that grease, any grease, is a really bad idea on a 938.
 
Posts: 32 | Registered: October 14, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Lost_In_The_Desert
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quote:
Originally posted by Lost_In_The_Desert:
quote:
Originally posted by Rln_21:
quote:
Originally posted by Modern Day Savage:
Flork, do you recommend lubing alloy framed SIGs the same as the stainless steel framed ones? (same lube, same ammount, same locations?)



Yes, same for alloy Sigs, they are much more prone to wear...


Thanks for the GREAT info., but, er - uhh-mm, everything I've read about 'galling' (hours 'n hours, actually!) states that it's MUCH more likely to occur between metals of the same composition; i.e., stainless-on-stainless!

In fact, from a SIG standpoint, the MOST-durable 'interface' (the one that has the lowest 'co-efficient of friction' - sliding or otherwise) is a NITRON 'treated' stainless steel slide on an aluminum alloy frame! That's why I'm (strongly) leaning towards buying an all-black P239 instead of the two-tone model!

What I don't understand, and perhaps someone can explain to me, is why two-tone and all-stainless SIG's (like the P229 'Elite') are more expensive than the all-black variants that SIG 'ships off' to IonBond for their very expensive NITRON treatment?

'Sorry ~ I don't mean to steal this great 'thread', but I have more questions than answers and I'd like to reverse the ratio!
.



  • “Those who would give up essential Liberty to purchase a little temporary Security deserve neither!" ~ Ben Franklin (In a 1775 letter to the Penn. Colonial Governor ~ that also justifies why we should repeal most of the hasty legislation enacted after '9-11')

  • "Allies or enemies. You make the call. I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes: If you f&*k with me, I'll kill you all. ~ Gen. James Mattis, USMC (In a tersely-worded note to local Iraqi tribal leaders in 2003.)

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    Posts: 45 | Location: The Desert Southwest | Registered: November 22, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Picture of bill1960
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    quote:
    Originally posted by alwitz:
    quote:
    Posted November 17, 2012 07:34 AM Hide Post
    I am biased, but swear by Mil-Comm MC25 pH neutral cleaner, followed up with their TW25B grease and/or MC2500 oil. C+LP works best.

    TW25B is the official lubricant of SigSauer.


    Actually "TW-25B or a like lubricant" is recommended by SIG for "all stainless models"...there is nothing "official" about it. I have no idea if it is a good or a bad product having never used it - but their self promotion is a little over the top.

    We agree that there are a number of nice products - the issue to me remains selecting the proper viscosity for the gun/conditions. I have just finished a series of experiments that prove, to my own satisfaction, that grease, any grease, is a really bad idea on a 938.


    I'd say the fact that Sig sends a tube of TW-25B with their brand new guns tends to lend a lot of credence to the "official" claim.
     
    Posts: 7 | Registered: November 11, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Actually it only lends credence to the manufacturer's willingness to provide free samples - but it is not worth an argument. You want to believe that it is somehow thereby official - be my guest.
     
    Posts: 32 | Registered: October 14, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Great thread! Thank you Flork.

    I just got me a used P226. Made in 1995. In EXCELLENT shape, remarkable shape actually. First thing I noticed was grease on the slide. I fired it for the first time yesterday, 100 rounds was all. The grease peaked my interest, I've not been a grease user but after seeing it on my new/old SIG, I am intending on sticking with it. My guess is this SIG has been 'greased' for it's life and the lack of visible wear on the slide is all I need to know.

    Look forward to future posts/pics!
     
    Posts: 1 | Registered: December 20, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Picture of SIGaction
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    This is a great thread. Thanks Flork. I never used that much grease before. I will start.


    _____________________________

    "Even a fish wouldn't get into trouble if it kept its mouth shut."
    - Korean Proverb
     
    Posts: 122 | Location: Michigan, USA | Registered: March 16, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Picture of compton
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    Thank you Flork for an informative thread. I just purchased a bottle of Hoppes last week, i'll need to pick up some grease now.

    grmojo: where did you manage to find a perfect German made P226? I need one in my life.
     
    Posts: 102 | Registered: January 02, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    I have a gunsmith and NRA instructor constantly telling me I am over lubing my pistol - 2 Sigs.

    I "over lube", then rack the slide to spread grease and wipe off of the outside what the gun won't hold.

    I also take down the gun and visually inspect to make sure all the areas of contact have visible signs of grease - I use TW325B

    I'm going to stick with Flork and over lube - i'm never in a harsh environment where funk would be absorbed by "excess" grease.

    I really think you can under-lubricate, but can't over-lubricate (with the exception of certain areas that should use oil only and not grease, and over oiling can cause problems)

    After racking the slide a few times, the gun will push out what it won't hold.

    Very good article and info - thanks
     
    Posts: 157 | Location: Southeast Louisiana | Registered: November 29, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Would have agreed before experience with my 938 convinced me that care/caution
    with grease is called for. The fact is that the lubricant becomes part of the energy equation and can rob the mechanism of kenetic energy. Not generally a problem but can become one for a gun/ammo combination that is operating "on the edge". Also, it does not take a particularly harsh environment to find a heavy layer of grease absorbing "gunk"...anything outside of a clean room can generate enough sand, dust and grime to become an issue - not to mention fouling from your own ammo.
    Always shoot on an indoor range and never more than 50 rounds? - No Problem!
     
    Posts: 32 | Registered: October 14, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    I've run 300 through my guns in one session and have never had any lubrication related problems.

    Possibly one reason is Sig - I do think the guns are tight enough to push out what they don't need and won't hold.

    In "looser" guns, I could see where there would be excess grease on the slide and rails, which may gunk up a gun faster.
     
    Posts: 157 | Location: Southeast Louisiana | Registered: November 29, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    I shot 15,000 rounds last year, through 5 different guns (3 of the SIG's) most of them without lube issues. However, my SIG 938 will not tolerate grease on the disconnector - something I have proven to myself with repeated experiments. It takes very little iterference to cause the disconnector to hang-up leaving the trigger "frozen". You just have to know your own guns and be aware that in general all gereralities are false - including this one. Smile
     
    Posts: 32 | Registered: October 14, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    I run around 8,000 rounds/year through a P226 with the .22 LR conversion.

    Never a problem.

    Run 600/year through each of P232 and P229.

    Never a problem either.

    Know thy gun - very good advice.
     
    Posts: 157 | Location: Southeast Louisiana | Registered: November 29, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Picture of critterdoc
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    quote:
    Originally posted by Brewer3401:
    I run around 8,000 rounds/year through a P226 with the .22 LR conversion.

    Never a problem.


    Does that problem free report include ammo related failures to fire and/or eject also? I'd appreciate your comments on which rounds you've had the best experience with. My experience with my P226 .22 conversion is relatively limited and I'm curious to hear opinions on preferred ammunition from more proficient shooters of the P226/.22LR.


    Non immemor beneficii / Crom a Boo / Islam delenda est
     
    Posts: 23 | Location: Southeast Looziana | Registered: November 06, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    For "serious" or competitive events, I use CCI Mini-Mags. Had one FTFire in approx. 12,000 rounds.

    For weekly shooting (200 rounds), I shoot Federal 525. I have about a 1% FTFire with them. Will almost always fire if the hammer is dropped again on the round. Could get these delivered by the case for less than 3 1/2 cents/round last summer - they're a tad more now, IF you can find them.

    Never had any FTFeed (see below) or FTE with either of the above ammo.

    Helpful hint: Never ease the slide into battery when loading a round into the chamber. It will bend the bullet (I did it twice). Sig manual actually says not to do, but to depress the slide lock and let it slam into battery.

    After about 16,000 rounds of .22, my magazine started to malfunction. Called Sig and they replaced for free - pretty impressed since the mag was almost 2 years old and seen lots of rounds.
     
    Posts: 157 | Location: Southeast Louisiana | Registered: November 29, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Picture of critterdoc
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    quote:
    Originally posted by Brewer3401:
    For "serious" or competitive events, I use CCI Mini-Mags. Had one FTFire in approx. 12,000 rounds.

    For weekly shooting (200 rounds), I shoot Federal 525. I have about a 1% FTFire with them. Will almost always fire if the hammer is dropped again on the round. Could get these delivered by the case for less than 3 1/2 cents/round last summer - they're a tad more now, IF you can find them.

    Never had any FTFeed (see below) or FTE with either of the above ammo.

    Helpful hint: Never ease the slide into battery when loading a round into the chamber. It will bend the bullet (I did it twice). Sig manual actually says not to do, but to depress the slide lock and let it slam into battery.

    After about 16,000 rounds of .22, my magazine started to malfunction. Called Sig and they replaced for free - pretty impressed since the mag was almost 2 years old and seen lots of rounds.
    Any experience with Aguila Supermax or CCI stingers in the P226? I had good success with a limiter number of Mini-mags on her maiden range trip but I'm anxious to get back to test drive the Aguilas I just received.


    Non immemor beneficii / Crom a Boo / Islam delenda est
     
    Posts: 23 | Location: Southeast Looziana | Registered: November 06, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Only shot the Federal 525 and CCI mini mags.

    I have shot the Federal AutoMatch Target (325 per box) with no problems, no FT Anything, but was only about 200 rounds
     
    Posts: 157 | Location: Southeast Louisiana | Registered: November 29, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
    Junior Member
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    Thank you for the info and pics Lubriplate has been my choice for years.
     
    Posts: 2 | Location: Wisconsin | Registered: January 05, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
    Too old to grow up now
    Picture of George85019
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    I use grease rather than oil on almost all my guns, but I use CLP oil in a few. I got in the habit of using grease with my M1 Garand, liked the way it worked and use it on most everything now. Boston Teaparty claims grease is grease in his bible. I tend to disagree, but he might be right if he means white lithium bulk grease for auto use is just as good as smaller tubes of gun specific white lithium. Any lube is better than little or none, that we can agree on.

    Thanks for posting Flork!


    NO SIGnature
     
    Posts: 2050 | Location: London, OH | Registered: January 05, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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