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and this little pig said:
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Oddly enough, when I started out in the security field, they issued GP100's in .38SP. What a piece of crap! I had a newer GP100 stainless, 4", that shot very well. Using the same ammo, their pistol shot low the further out you went (25 yds). My newer pistol shot spot-on at 25 yds with the same ammo.
We've transitioned to semi-autos, but I still have my personal GP100. I go to the range and challenge fellow security guards who are shooting their issued Glock 22s against my GP100. We shoot at the scoring icon at the top, right corner of the target. They can't hit it, while I'm usually right in the icon.
Revolvers are just sooooooo dependable and accurate!
Posts: 2794 | Registered: February 07, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I own two GP100’s. One is the first handgun I ever bought, in 1993, a 4” Stainless.357 At the time, I figured a .357 Magnum revolver was the gun to have...and it’s still a great gun to have; it sits in my “bump in the night” quick-access safe as I type this, with thousands of trouble-fee rounds through it. My other GP100 is a 3” .44 Special, much more recently acquired. Don’t have nearly the history with that one, but a couple hundred rounds convinced me of its reliability and accuracy; enough so that I carried it as my sole CC on my Alaskan vacation last summer. Also , I’ve been in the retail firearms business for over 20 years now and have probably sold a few hundred of them. They are great guns, and for most users, require nothing more than regular cleaning to keep chugging along basically for ever.

"Shoot first, shoot fast, shoot straight, shoot last." -- attribution unknown (to me)
Posts: 257 | Location: SE Michigan | Registered: March 04, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Let's be careful
out there
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the tiger tank of revolvers; heavy, over-engineered, stronger than a wino's breath, inelegant, but exceedingly functional
Posts: 7064 | Location: NW OHIO | Registered: May 29, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of bripro
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With the standard factory hammer spring the trigger might be heavy but is smooth. When I install any of the three various weight hammer springs that came in the wolf kit the start of the pull has this weird little jerk or clunk before smoothing out.
I don’t know if it’s because the top of the springs are still round and not flattened out?
Whatever it is it’s annoying enough that I put the factory spring back in and unless the forum has a suggestion I just paid 17 bucks for a trigger return spring.
Any ideas would be appreciated. Brian

DDG-8 "Sine Timore"
Posts: 134 | Location: United States | Registered: May 05, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Well, my 1990-1991-era GP100 kicked my Colt Stainless Python out of the nest, during a thinning of the herd in the mid-Nineties. Well, actually, the Python seemed to be a “Monday gun,” made during an era of spotty QC, with a resulting poor trigger action, but the bottom line is that I shot the GP100 better, probably because the GP100 original-style OEM grip is perfect for my hands. At that time, my guns had to earn their right to stay, so, the Python went away.

Of course, hindsight being 20/20, I could have thoroughly cleaned the Python, stored it, and ended up with an “investment” gun, today.

I carried that GP100 on duty, for a couple of years, before I went to lighter-weight K-Frames in the duty rig. I went to autoloading duty pistols in 1997, but well into the second decade of this century, continued to keep a cased 4” GP100 with me while on police patrol, due to the better reach, compared to a shotgun or duty autopistol.

I know, from first-hand experience, what a fast 125-grain .357 JHP will do to a human opponent. As I said, above, the original-pattern OEM GP100 grip is perfect for my hands. I have no problem trusting that combined level of performance in 2019.

During a recent road trip, which might have included passing through NE USA jurisdictions with ammo capacity restrictions, my slicked, bobbed-hammer 3” GP100 was an easy choice.

My first GP100 acquired some companions along the way; 3” to 6”, plus 2” to 4” SP101 five-guns, a 4” Speed Six, and 6” Security Six.

I do not claim to be a revolver-only person; my first handgun, in late 1982 or early 1983, was a 1911. I had thought, at the time, that revolvers were, well, quaint. To attend a police academy in 1983-1984, however, I needed to buy one of several specified 4” .357 revolvers, and I then had to use only revolvers during my first years of sworn service. Well, to make this long story short, I learned love some revolvers as much as the 1911.

I apologize for the rambling nature of this post. It is not easy to compose, using the tiny window on this mobile device.

Have Colts, will travel
Posts: 3030 | Location: SE Texas | Registered: April 08, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have owned 3. Tradedfirst one for 686+ and never looked back. Then I found the Wiley Clapp 3” version. Liked it so much I bought a spare.

Tank. Love it. I think I did swap out hammer spring and rebound spring. Then shot the heck out of it. Easily my favorite revolver now. I shoot my 627 Pro more but only because moonclips and 2 extra rounds makes me a lot faster for matches.
Posts: 2176 | Registered: June 18, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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GP100 for maximum .357 power loads, and all around utility. That is my preference.

For target/range 'fun' with moderate loads, or with .38sp, I go S&W 586. Or Colt Model 3 5 7 [look it up- actual model, not python or trooper].

If I could only own one .357 AND I were able to use it for carry and home defense, I'd go Ruger.

the only issue is GP100 or Blackhawk Convertible [w/ 9mm cylinder as backup, for fun].

If I could only own one, and it was for competition at the range ONLY, I am not sure if it would be the Colt 357 or the S&W 586. I like the balance of the Colt better, but the S&W absorbs recoil a bit more.

My GP100 is 4", but that is because of Blackhawk in 6" for range use. 4" allows range, nightstand, carry and all-around utility.

Sig P226, P220 Carry Stainless Elite, and a bunch of non-sigs. Smile
Posts: 530 | Location: South San Joaquin Valley, CA | Registered: September 21, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Now the question is, what is the ideal barrel length for the GP-100
I'm a Smith guy, have been for almost 60 yrs now, but do own an even half dozen Ruger Single Actions. I just don't cotton to their DA's looks, me shallow but that's it....Friends have brought them out to our farm to shoot and all had triggers that were not comparable to any Smith's I've shot. And accuracy, though good was not as good as the Smiths but it did take a rested position to determine that.

All that said: If you're committed to the Ruger, give some very serious thought to your use. If it's for carry, barrel length is a major consideration. Get it wrong and you just won't carry it and you're stuck with another range only handgun. For me, daily use on a variety of conveyances here on our farm, bbl. length is all important. With a moderately high riding holster (OWB), on a pants belt, (not a dedicated gun belt), 4" is about the limit for any bbl. Longer, and it gets pushed up by the seat, then sticks in your short ribs when seated. Cars, trucks, tractors, 4x4 ATV's, riding mowers...basically anything but horseback and the seat pushes on that muzzle and up she rides. I've got a Smith M27 with a 5" bbl. that I'd dearly love to carry on my chores here, but it's just too long...I build my own Tom Threepersons Open Top OWB holsters for family use, and I just haven't built one for that M27 that rides high may come down to a 'tanker' type of cross chest and that's not for CC use.

The holster is the key if you're going to concealed carry it... and that equates to bbl. length for comfort, believe me. And as far as practical accuracy is concerned, I've never found the 5" or 6" bbl's measurably more accurate from a field position than a 4". I do find a difference if I'm carrying one of my two 3" Smith model 60's however. Best choice, unless you get a really high riding holster is the 4" model. You might look into one of the Askins Avenger style OWB holsters for a higher rise, but again, too high and you have the damned thing sticking you in the ribs.

Lastly, weight is a significant factor...especially when you get older. 45 oz. hanging off your pants belt just isn't fun for all day totin'. The best compromise I've found is one of the Smith K frames, in a 4" bbl. revolver, and even that is a chore. God bless our LEO's with a 20 lb.+ gun belt load out...I just don't know how they do it...


5th Spl Forces, Air Force Bird Dog FAC, lll Corps RVN 69-70.... We enjoy the Bill of Rights through and by the sacrifice of our veterans;
Politicians, Preachers, Educators, Journalists and Community Organizers are beneficiaries, not defenders of our freedoms.
Posts: 575 | Registered: April 04, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have never fired one that I can remember. Back when I was "in the biz", I handled and sold several. We never had any complaints or problems with them.

Back when they first came out, they were direct competitors to the L frame, and there were some snarky ads in print between the two, Rugers about having a thicker frame, and Smith saying that thick was fine for shakes, but their frames were forged and stronger. Honestly, I think the strength between the L frames and GP series is about equal. I think the GP's in general are a little more robust, but not as elegant. The Smith always had a better trigger, both single and double, out of the box, but I did like the beefy bolt stop and lockup of the Ruger.

The K frame Smith is the best balanced to me; a Model 19 in 4 inch is the best feeling revolver to my hand. Of course the K frames should be used sparingly with full magnums. They won't blow up, but the gas will wear on the top strap, and they will shoot loose sooner.
Posts: 945 | Registered: January 23, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Heavy and substantial.
Posts: 1949 | Location: East Central Toadsuck, Florida | Registered: September 04, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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