I recently removed the internal lock on my S&W 442 and also installed the plug from Original Precision. This was my first time opening up a revolver and working on the internals, but the job was very straightforward and easy. Now it seems my trigger pull is somehow worse than it was originally.
Specifically, the initial weight to get the trigger moving from its fully forward position seems to have increased quite a bit. Additionally, as I dry-fire it, this initial wall seems to get "stickier" the more I dry-fire. But then if I let the gun sit for a while and start to dry-fire it again the weight is more normal, but then increases as I continue. It becomes a jerk to get the trigger moving, sort of like two parts are stacked against each other and then beak apart/release. After it gets moving it seems ok. This is very strange. I'm not sure what could have caused that. Any ideas? Thanks for any help you can provide.
FYI.. I used these two videos when disassembling, removing the lock, installing the plug and reassembling:
First, did you dry fire with the side plate off?
If you did the stud that the hammer pivots on might be damaged .Take it apart and check, if everything seems good post your question in the armorer section.
Far more people monitor this area than the armorer section. Posting anything there is a good way for it to die an unacknowledged death, and making multiple posts about the same thing has always been frowned upon here.
If in fact the trigger pull has changed, then it is obviously somehow due to installing the plug. The first thing I would do is to disassemble the action and check to ensure that everything is in the proper position. Perhaps the rebound slide spring is binding for some reason or something is catching on the plug. Check it for any signs of rubbing.
“How do you know I’m mad?” said Alice.
“You must be,” said the Cat, “or you wouldn’t have come here.”
May I ask, what is the benefit of removing the lock?
Removing the lock is mostly about aesthetics/peace of mind for most of the folks doing it. It does eliminate one more part that could potentially keep the firearm from functioning. And yes, it can and has failed, though not as often as some might declare. It has a higher chance of failure in the lighter, high recoiling models - or so it seems.
Happened to me on a 686. In my case, the hammer was touching the plug.
Open up you gun. Make sure there are no burrs on either the plug or the hammer where it moves past the plug. If there are, stone the edges. Also check the there are no burrs on the cylinder release that may engage the hammer.
I took mine out and stoned the edges even though I couldn't feel any burrs. I also stoned the plug.
And as another poster indicated, do not cycle the action without the sideplate in place. You will offset the pins, or worse, break them, and then you're in a world of hurt.
Hi guys. Well I opened it back up and sure enough I found what appears to be the sear portion of the hammer and a small spring disconnected from the rest of the hammer. Not sure how that happened but it sounds like it was likely from when I dry fired it with the side plate off. So, not sure how to fix this other than sending it in to S&W customer service. I may just do that if it’s not an easy fix. Thoughts?
Easy to reassemble, see above link watch 46 min. to 56 min. mark.
Make sure that tiny spring is not deformed, if it is order a couple from S&W. I think spring part number is #21577.
Basically put spring in sear hole and put both back in the hammer by compressing spring as you place sear in hammer. I use a guitar pick to compress spring but a razor blade will also work. Double check the hammer stud to see that's its still standing straight.
As far as disabling the lock I just remove that little nub on the lock plate that the hammer sits on and put it back in frame, that way there is not a big void where the hammer lays. Good Luck and no reason to send back unless the hammer stud is messed up.
|Powered by Social Strata|