First there are numerous CLP product out there from different companies with different formulas, so perhaps a general statement about "CLP" isn't possible.

The reason for the post was an issue that occurred with an owner of a post 2010 Dan Wesson Valor in which the CLP he was using caused a "stain" on the Duty Treatment finish. Apparently this is a known concern and CLP for that finish is not recommended. Apparently the solvent removes the oils from the finish, or so someone mentioned.

I know some cleaners are not really safe for polymer, and even those that are, are for "incidental" contact.

Although guns seem to be moving either to stainless or various "finishes" and "treatments" I do have some blued guns, principally revolvers, but two 1911s.

Right now I use Lucas products and MPro7.

Unless you have an specific product that you want to know about is hard to say, when I get a new cleaner I research extensively because I had issues with very strong cleaners that have had actually remove the finish from one of my firearms.

Breakfree CLP is safe to use on the majority of gun finishes and polymers.

I learned the hard way NOT to use Hoppes #9 on a nickel plated gun.

What I use now is Lucas. I used to use Hoppes #9 for the bore and Gunscrubber elsewhere. I would then wipe it down with gun oil. I never gave it much thought, and never had an issue.

Just started using CLP, specifically Lucas Oil CLP, but story Did give me pause.

So, specially Lucas Oil.

Lucas is repackaged transmission oil. Really good of course. It's called marketing.

CLP hasn’t ever hurt the finish of any of my guns.

I've been using Breakfree CLP on all my guns for over 30 years. Never an issue with any kind of gun finish imaginable.

You're right; not all CLPs are made the same.

Most are heavy on the oils which are generally safe to come into contact with most finishes, but for instance Lucas has a CLP that is solvent-based (their Extreme Duty product). Solvents typically are among the worst choices to use on dipped camouflage guns. So it's probably not a good choice for cleaning that Super Black Eagle III in MAX-5 or a Kryptek 10mm P220.

One of my customers has a Beretta A400 in Optifade that is literally living up to its name. According to him he's run thousands of shells through that gun and it's taken more than its fair share of ducks and geese. It truly shows it with the amount of cleaning that it's been through (not to mention all of the worn out parts that have needed replacing), where on many areas the camo pattern is all but gone. He just uses whatever is at hand, and too often it's regular gun cleaning solvents.

I too use M-Pro7 as my primary cleaner. It seems genuinely suitable for all surfaces and definitely is not as noxious as other products like Hoppes. Not a CLP, though.

quote:

Most are heavy on the oils which are generally safe to come into contact with most finishes, but for instance Lucas has a CLP that is solvent-based (their Extreme Duty product). Solvents typically are among the worst choices to use on dipped camouflage guns. So it's probably not a good choice for cleaning that Super Black Eagle III in MAX-5 or a Kryptek 10mm P220.

I'm not partial to the dipped finishes. I'm not sure I'd buy a gun with such a finish unless I either didn't know that was the type of finish it had, or there was no other option. I appreciate the information.

I've also heard concerns in general about cleaning nickle plated/finished guns.

The fact that Lucas calls their product Extreme Duty and that is it solvent-based, were the reasons for my concerns. On the other hand, GGI recommends and sells it, so I thought it was probably a good product. Perhaps that was wrong on my part.

quote:

Originally posted by black1970:
Lucas is repackaged transmission oil. Really good of course. It's called marketing.

Where did this information come from?

Have used CLP on many firearms and have never had an issue.

for blue or stainless guns , and polymer, I have used a large variety of cleaners and oils (partial bottles from different estates I have purchased,

all work well, some smell better than others,


never use a copper solvent (hoppes) on a nickel gun, it will eventually cause issues on the finish


I did use hoppes benchrest on a couple guns I had shot, the added some USGI type LSA to the bores (was storing them in an unfinished/no AC room,)

opened the cabinet one day to see green snot like stuff oozing out of the bore,

thought I had ruined my nice 1903,,

come to find out the benchrest hoppes had done it's job and removed all the copper and the LSA just helped it ooze out the barrel (stored horizontal on a rack with the muzzle tipped down slightly)

SIGWolf, your thread is very timely! Monday I purchased a DW Guardian. The manual as well as DW emphasize the use of specific cleaners, solvents, oils etc. I have been using Lucas products and break free CLP on all my weapons yet for this new gun I purchased FP 10 in order to comply with The recommended break-in and function of this new piece.
I am very happy with Lucas products especially their CLP. I cannot imagine it being harmful for my new DW pistol. Yet, I don’t want to take the risk. Members will benefit and should welcome more discussion on this thread.

PS:What about alcohol? Our use alcohol to clean a gun before I lube it.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: fquico,

I haven't received a reply from Lucas Oil yet, however, in it's absence I emailed and received a reply from Gray Guns from whom I purchased the products and upon whose recommendation I made that purchase.

The responses were NOT from Bruce Gray himself in case anyone wonders.

"Generally, the oils and CLP should be safe for pretty much anything. I've used them on all sorts of guns and not had a problem. The only thing I might have concerns about is the contact cleaner. It's pretty stern stuff, I likely wouldn't trust it on polymer or really nicely blued guns. Honestly, did some asking around and we're not sure what the effect of it on cerakote would be. Hope that helps."

I then asked the purpose for which the Contact Cleaner would be used. This reply.

"I love it for cleaning a surface that I dont want left over residue on. Like my Dillon Reloading Press. I also use it to clean out an FCU for the 320 before I Grease it back up. (FCU out of the Grip Module)"

The responses were from two different people on their team.

quote:

Originally posted by fquico:
SIGWolf, your thread is very timely! Monday I purchased a DW Guardian. The manual as well as DW emphasize the use of specific cleaners, solvents, oils etc. I have been using Lucas products and break free CLP on all my weapons yet for this new gun I purchased FP 10 in order to comply with The recommended break-in and function of this new piece.
I am very happy with Lucas products especially their CLP. I cannot imagine it being harmful for my new DW pistol. Yet, I don’t want to take the risk. Members will benefit and should welcome more discussion on this thread.

PS:What about alcohol? Our use alcohol to clean a gun before I lube it.

The Guardian and apparently all their current production guns have the Duty Finish which is a treatment and not a coating. It is that finish that the fellow I mention stained with the CLP he was using.

The Duty Finish is nitrocarburization which is a process that actually becomes part of the stainless steel and is very hard and durable.

This from Dan Wesson:

"The 2008 production black 1911s we produced were cerakoted...it is a coating, where our current production pistols are duty finished....a nitrocarburization process that is part of the stainless steel."

I understand it actually hardens the surface and while it is very durable it makes any later customization difficult due to the hardness and can only be performed two or three times without starting to make the metal brittle. that is at least what I've read.

Still haven't actually heard from Lucas Oil.

SIGWolf - I have a Duty Finish Valor I purchased new a couple of years ago so I was concerned about the issue of CLP messing up the finish since that what I use on my guns. Note, I used CLP on it for a couple of years before I even knew there could be an issue but I've never had a problem with mine. In doing some research, on different forums, it appears that the "problem" CLP was from Safariland and their original CLP formulation which has since been changed.

FWIW, I've use Rand CLP on all mine, including a duty finish Specialist, with no issues.