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I just came back from the range after shooting 500 rounds through my new SIG Sauer M11-A1. I love the gun and it is great for concealed carry in my custom holster. I have 2 questions and below I have listed the type of ammo I used in sequential order.

The DA trigger seems very hard compared to my 226. The DA trigger feels about 12 or 13 pounds. It did not loosen up through the 500 rounds. The single-action trigger and the short researcher are outstanding. I did send my 226 for an action enhancement package in Exner New Hampshire and I liked it but the M11-A1 still feels heavier than the out-of-the-box 226 trigger.

I did get some stovepipes at rounds 92, 94, 96, 121, 123, 164, 165, 166 approximately. It only happened when I was using both hands and in fact when I shot the gun with one hand including my weak non-dominant hand I did not get any stovepipes. I noticed a stovepipes usually happened after the 1st double-action shot and then for subsequent rounds. I did try shooting it in DA mode only for one whole magazine which did not produce any stovepipes.

I used the 3 15 round magazines that came with the gun and 3 15 round 226 magazines that are well broken in. The stove piping was nondependent of the magazines used.

I do not have a strong grip and I could have always limp wristed a little.

After 200 rounds I had no more malfunctions.

Rounds 1 - 200 Fiochhi 115 grain 9mm
Rounds 200 - 300 PMC Bronze 115 grain 9mm
Rounds 300 - 400 Federal Premium 115 grain 9mm
Rounds 400 - 500 Selier & Belot 115 grain 9mm

I am trying to go back to the range on Friday and put another 500 rounds to the gun. The Fiochhi is hot ammo I would be surprised if it was the ammo that was causing the malfunctions.

Great gun and I am very happy with it except for the DA trigger.

For a compact gun with a 3.8 inch barrel I did much better at 15 yards than I thought I could.

Happy shooting.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SSAreGreat,


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Posts: 218 | Registered: March 03, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A 19lb mainspring is a cheap way to really lighten the DA and won't affect reliability. Some go 17, I don't feel comfortable going that light on a carry gun. I put a 19 in an old P6, night and day difference. My GGI tuned P226 has a 19lb mainspring as well.




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Posts: 2707 | Location: Oregon | Registered: October 02, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Strambo:
A 19lb mainspring is a cheap way to really lighten the DA and won't affect reliability. Some go 17, I don't feel comfortable going that light on a carry gun. I put a 19 in an old P6, night and day difference. My GGI tuned P226 has a 19lb mainspring as well.



Thanks sounds simply enough


Democracy is 2 Wolves & a Lamb Debating what to have for Lunch

Liberty is a Well Armed Lamb!!!
 
Posts: 218 | Registered: March 03, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Stovepipes likely due to combo of break-in and weak grip. After 500 rounds, it should be close to being broken in. However, DA trigger tends to smooth out rather than lighten up with use, although it may FEEL lighter.

I have played with all of the Wolff R-P mainsprings (17-19) on all of my Sigs. Also do my own action work. I use the 18# on my P226 and P229's and have never experienced failures to fire. have avoided the 17# although they are reliable in my guns. They sometimes produce a funky DA feel and a SA that is too light. Don't forget that a R-P spring reduces the weight on BOTH the DA and SA. Note that reducing the weight will not correct any roughness in the trigger pull.

Every gun is different and should be thoroughly tested with defensive ammo. The 19# is a set it and forget it. Very conservative and should not induce malfunctions. As Strambo mentioned, GGI uses their own 19# in their action jobs. I'd recommend the Wolff Hammer Spring Pak so you can experiment (17, 18, 19#). SKU 32356 only $9.00.

https://www.gunsprings.com/SIG...cID1/mID4/dID253#296

Long shots, but may be worth a try:

1) Dry-fire in addition to range use. Snap-caps of course.

2) Remove grips. Lube hammer/sear engaging surfaces using liquid lube or grease on a toothpick. Lightly lube mainspring with liquid lube, enough to drop onto the hammer strut. These areas are accessible without removing any parts.

3) If you feel comfortable, remove hammer spring assembly. Check strut and the yoke where it contacts the hammer pin. The struts can be rough...if so polish out any roughness and check the entire length for roughness. It's a stamped part and has a high PSI loading where it contacts the hammer pin.

4) Every gun is different in regards to trigger characteristics. In "identical" guns, each one has it's own personality.

Thanks for the detailed informative post. Info is always appreciated.


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Posts: 3929 | Location: Northeast | Registered: June 29, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Nipper:
Stovepipes likely due to combo of break-in and weak grip. After 500 rounds, it should be close to being broken in. However, DA trigger tends to smooth out rather than lighten up with use, although it may FEEL lighter.

I have played with all of the Wolff R-P mainsprings (17-19) on all of my Sigs. Also do my own action work. I use the 18# on my P226 and P229's and have never experienced failures to fire. have avoided the 17# although they are reliable in my guns. They sometimes produce a funky DA feel and a SA that is too light. Don't forget that a R-P spring reduces the weight on BOTH the DA and SA. Note that reducing the weight will not correct any roughness in the trigger pull.

Every gun is different and should be thoroughly tested with defensive ammo. The 19# is a set it and forget it. Very conservative and should not induce malfunctions. As Strambo mentioned, GGI uses their own 19# in their action jobs. I'd recommend the Wolff Hammer Spring Pak so you can experiment (17, 18, 19#). SKU 32356 only $9.00.

https://www.gunsprings.com/SIG...cID1/mID4/dID253#296

Long shots, but may be worth a try:

1) Dry-fire in addition to range use. Snap-caps of course.

2) Remove grips. Lube hammer/sear engaging surfaces using liquid lube or grease on a toothpick. Lightly lube mainspring with liquid lube, enough to drop onto the hammer strut. These areas are accessible without removing any parts.

3) If you feel comfortable, remove hammer spring assembly. Check strut and the yoke where it contacts the hammer pin. The struts can be rough...if so polish out any roughness and check the entire length for roughness. It's a stamped part and has a high PSI loading where it contacts the hammer pin.

4) Every gun is different in regards to trigger characteristics. In "identical" guns, each one has it's own personality.

Thanks for the detailed informative post. Info is always appreciated.



Than you Nipper for your detailed post and suggestions. Deeply appreciated.


Democracy is 2 Wolves & a Lamb Debating what to have for Lunch

Liberty is a Well Armed Lamb!!!
 
Posts: 218 | Registered: March 03, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Sent my m11 in for action enhancement job. Worked out well. I experienced some light primer hits
with federal m882 ammo. With everything else she worked great. I changed sights to 8/8 trijicon
 
Posts: 413 | Registered: July 13, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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