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Can a P320 grip frame be cut? Login/Join 
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Picture of Malysh
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I have the P320 originally in the carry configuration but also have the sub compact and compact grip frames and requisite magazines.

I have this idea to have the front end of the compact grip frame cut shorter and slightly beveled, and give it the look of a full size slide on a carry frame, or a carry/compact slide on a sub compact frame. I like the looks of these pistols with the slide and barrel extended past the front end of the grip frames. But in the winter I'd prefer to use the compact 15 rd. configuration but I am not crazy about the clunky look of the grip frame front extending flush with the muzzle.

The "step" of the extended slides at least improves the looks of the pistol. This would be a purely cosmetic modification with no added practicality.

My questions are:

Would cutting off the very front of the grip frame compromise the frame strength?

If no problem, who would you recommend doing the chore? I recently moved and my new house has no extra space for a workroom, workbench, or vise. And, my skills are limited to begin with.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.
 
Posts: 126 | Location: PA | Registered: November 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cutting, sanding, stippling is easy. Adding material is more difficult, but I found that Superglue works well on mag base plate, so it might work well on frames.

I cut one of my 320 compact grips to fit subcompact mags. It worked well. I can carry a 12 round SC in the pistol, and a 15 round compact in my pocket.


-c1steve
 
Posts: 2793 | Location: West coast | Registered: March 31, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
Picture of GaryBF
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When I owned a P320 subcompact, I used a fine-tooth hobby saw to shorten the front of a compact frame to fit my subcompact slide. The results were so-so. Sanding the plastic tends to tear the plastic, so you don’t get a smooth end. Also, shortening the frame will leave a gap because you cut off a curved-up closure and the end of the frame. It only looks bad to the guy you are pointing the gun at, however.

Modified Compact2 by GaryBF, on Flickr

Muzzle gap by GaryBF, on Flickr

Modified Compact by GaryBF, on Flickr
 
Posts: 11608 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of az4783054
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If you chose to do this, cut it slightly longer than necessary and finish with black oxide sandpaper of various grits, or a bench mounted disc/belt sander. The latter is much more aggressive so it's easy to go to far.

I've done it, it's just time consuming to make it look good.
 
Posts: 9389 | Location: Somewhere north of a hot humid hell in the summer. | Registered: January 09, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Malysh
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quote:
Originally posted by c1steve:
Cutting, sanding, stippling is easy. Adding material is more difficult, but I found that Superglue works well on mag base plate, so it might work well on frames.

I cut one of my 320 compact grips to fit subcompact mags. It worked well. I can carry a 12 round SC in the pistol, and a 15 round compact in my pocket.


Thanks, Steve.
 
Posts: 126 | Location: PA | Registered: November 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Malysh
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quote:
Originally posted by GaryBF:
When I owned a P320 subcompact, I used a fine-tooth hobby saw to shorten the front of a compact frame to fit my subcompact slide. The results were so-so. Sanding the plastic tends to tear the plastic, so you don’t get a smooth end. Also, shortening the frame will leave a gap because you cut off a curved-up closure and the end of the frame. It only looks bad to the guy you are pointing the gun at, however.

Modified Compact2 by GaryBF, on Flickr

Muzzle gap by GaryBF, on Flickr

Modified Compact by GaryBF, on Flickr


Thanks for the reply and extra effort posting your pictures!

I noticed all the grip frames have a slightly raised concave boss at the very end of the front of the frame. This will be lost if one cuts the end off. I knew it would leave a gap, which may let in a little extra dust. That boss might possibly be for better return alignment with the slide travel as well, but that's going out on a limb, so to speak.
 
Posts: 126 | Location: PA | Registered: November 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Malysh
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quote:
Originally posted by az4783054:
If you chose to do this, cut it slightly longer than necessary and finish with black oxide sandpaper of various grits, or a bench mounted disc/belt sander. The latter is much more aggressive so it's easy to go to far.

I've done it, it's just time consuming to make it look good.


Thanks for your reply.
 
Posts: 126 | Location: PA | Registered: November 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Texaspoff
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They are super easy to cut and work with. Even the TXG grips are super easy. I have done a ton of them.

Always fun cutting into a $300 dollar frame. Smile

FWIW this was the first Legion Carry size.





TXPO


Coldborecustom.com
 
Posts: 210 | Location: Texas | Registered: January 12, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Below are photos of the slide-to-frame gap for two compact grip modules using the same FCU and slide for both (and not cleaned since going to the range earlier today). The shortened grip module is a factory modification, but I subsequently smoothed the cut surface because it was pretty rough and ugly.

 
Posts: 612 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: March 25, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Malysh:
I have the P320 originally in the carry configuration but also have the sub compact and compact grip frames and requisite magazines.

I have this idea to have the front end of the compact grip frame cut shorter and slightly beveled, and give it the look of a full size slide on a carry frame, or a carry/compact slide on a sub compact frame. I like the looks of these pistols with the slide and barrel extended past the front end of the grip frames. But in the winter I'd prefer to use the compact 15 rd. configuration but I am not crazy about the clunky look of the grip frame front extending flush with the muzzle.

The "step" of the extended slides at least improves the looks of the pistol. This would be a purely cosmetic modification with no added practicality.

My questions are:

Would cutting off the very front of the grip frame compromise the frame strength?

If no problem, who would you recommend doing the chore? I recently moved and my new house has no extra space for a workroom, workbench, or vise. And, my skills are limited to begin with.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.


A co-worker recently cut the dust cover of a carry frame to match a sub compact slide.

No issues.
 
Posts: 411 | Location: Texas | Registered: March 25, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of NoQuota
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quote:
Originally posted by gc70:
Below are photos of the slide-to-frame gap for two compact grip modules using the same FCU and slide for both (and not cleaned since going to the range earlier today). The shortened grip module is a factory modification, but I subsequently smoothed the cut surface because it was pretty rough and ugly.




What guide rod/recoil spring are you using?


Si vis pacem, para bellum
 
Posts: 511 | Location: St Augustine, FL | Registered: March 23, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by NoQuota:
What guide rod/recoil spring are you using?


The guide rod is metal and the recoil spring is flat and not captured; they are the stock parts that came from SIG in a new Compact P250.

The guide rod and recoil spring are the same as shown in the video below. Since the video was made in June 2015 and my pistol case is marked December 2016, the parts must have been common for some period of time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlavoxQr0mg
 
Posts: 612 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: March 25, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of NoQuota
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Ah, thanks.

I should have realized that it was a P250.


Si vis pacem, para bellum
 
Posts: 511 | Location: St Augustine, FL | Registered: March 23, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Malysh
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Well, if I decide to modify/shorten the front of the grip module, can somebody tell me what tools I will need and how to do it?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Posts: 126 | Location: PA | Registered: November 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A hacksaw cuts the plastic well, so does a jig saw. For sanding, you could do it by hand or use an electric sander such as a random orbital. I often use a triangle sander because it is easy to control the amount of material removed.


-c1steve
 
Posts: 2793 | Location: West coast | Registered: March 31, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Malysh
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by c1steve:
A hacksaw cuts the plastic well, so does a jig saw. For sanding, you could do it by hand or use an electric sander such as a random orbital. I often use a triangle sander because it is easy to control the amount of material removed.


Thank you, Steve. I wonder if a dremel tool would work well for cutting a frame?
 
Posts: 126 | Location: PA | Registered: November 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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