I am a new member and this is my first post on this site, so please bear with me if this topic has been discussed before.

I recently bought a new 9mm Sig P320 FDE pistol. I like everything about this pistol except for one thing. When I shoot it, 9 out of 10 spent cases hit me on the bill of my ball cap or on the top of my glasses frame.

I am not new to shooting semi auto pistols. I have been an avid 1911 guy since my Army days back in 1968. I own several other polymer framed semi auto pistols and I do not experience this case discharge problem with any of them.

Has any of you had this problem? I defer to you for suggestions as to the cause and the solution.

Oh, did I say this pistol is very accurate even thought I am ducking hot brass!!

A few boxes of ammo run through the pistol should make the problem go away. This is basically a break-in issue.

When I find a good deal on 9mm ammo, I buy some. I think I have nine or ten cases on hand currently.
I will take your advice and run a few more hundred rounds more through it. It has 150 rounds through it so far.
I hope to eventually use this pistol as the weapon I carry in my console.

I don't recall seeing any P320 threads indicating it has a chronic BTF problem like the Glocks did a few years ago.

Could be break-in or a certain ammo brand. I'd at least try a second brand. What are you using now? If it still persists with a mix of ammo, I'd consider sending it back under warranty.

I'd also do a visual check on the extractor and see if anything looks out of the ordinary, like burrs.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum!

Try a few different kinds of ammo. You can also try a noncaptured guide rod (Gray Guns makes a good one) and a selection of different weight recoil springs. Use 1911 springs.
Other than that, grease it up and shoot it until it's broken in

Luck,

Bruce

Welcome to SF. Something may be retarding the slide speed. New, fully loaded mags may cause this. And I would run it "wet" for 300 rounds or so to ensure its not a lubrication problem.

Are you shooting 115 grain? 124 grain or higher might help.

So far I have used 115 gr Fiochi, 115 gr Blazer Brass, and 115 gr UMC. The brand of ammo doesn't seem to make much difference.
I load five rounds in a magazine each time I shoot. That keeps the RO's happy.
Prior to this Sig I bought a S&W M&P2.0. It jammed almost every time on the first range trip. During that first trip, a friend I shoot with asked to see it. He field stripped the pistol and oiled the hell out of it. So much so, that my glasses ended up with oil spatters after a few mags. That was the only way it would run for the first 200 or so rounds.
My 1911s require just a light coating of lubricant and they will run like a Swiss watch. After My 2.0 incident, I now generously lubricate any new polymer pistol I buy, prior to the first range trip.
I generally shoot at 7 and 15 yards. At that range I general look through the sights. It is an odd sensation seeing every spent casing come flipping end over end directly over the rear sight and land directly between your eyes or on your ball cap bill. I am not one to flinch, but a piece of hot brass landing on your eyelid or nose will give you pause.

quote:

Originally posted by TEXVET:
I load five rounds in a magazine each time I shoot. That keeps the RO's happy.

Are you in NY?

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:

quote:

Originally posted by TEXVET:
I load five rounds in a magazine each time I shoot. That keeps the RO's happy.

Are you in NY?

I have a friend in Lansing MI whom I visit and we go to a free DNR run range near him that requests the same thing.

quote:

So far I have used 115 gr Fiochi, 115 gr Blazer Brass, and 115 gr UMC.

That would be interesting to see what 147gr does.
And welcome to the forum TEXVET.

The DNR Range let's you load 6 don't exaggerate

quote:

Originally posted by TEXVET:
So far I have used 115 gr Fiochi, 115 gr Blazer Brass, and 115 gr UMC. The brand of ammo doesn't seem to make much difference.
I load five rounds in a magazine each time I shoot. That keeps the RO's happy.
Prior to this Sig I bought a S&W M&P2.0. It jammed almost every time on the first range trip. During that first trip, a friend I shoot with asked to see it. He field stripped the pistol and oiled the hell out of it. So much so, that my glasses ended up with oil spatters after a few mags. That was the only way it would run for the first 200 or so rounds.
My 1911s require just a light coating of lubricant and they will run like a Swiss watch. After My 2.0 incident, I now generously lubricate any new polymer pistol I buy, prior to the first range trip.
I generally shoot at 7 and 15 yards. At that range I general look through the sights. It is an odd sensation seeing every spent casing come flipping end over end directly over the rear sight and land directly between your eyes or on your ball cap bill. I am not one to flinch, but a piece of hot brass landing on your eyelid or nose will give you pause.

Thanks for the detailed info. I'll use your post as a template. For ease of reading, I'll use all CAPS on my comments.:

- So far I have used 115 gr Fiochi, 115 gr Blazer Brass, and 115 gr UMC. The brand of ammo doesn't seem to make much difference.

OBVIOUSLY APPEARS NOT TO BE AMMO RELATED.

- I load five rounds in a magazine each time I shoot. That keeps the RO's happy.

NO CHOICE IF THAT'S A RANGE REQUIREMENT. HOWEVER, AT HOME I'D FILL ALL MAGS TO FULL CAPACITY AND LET THEM SIT FOR A WEEK OR TWO. SOME LARGER CAPACITY MAGS NEED THIS FOR EASE OF RELOADING, AND IN SOME CASES, PROPER FUNCTIONING. IT'S A BREAK-IN FOR MAG SPRINGS. REGARDLESS, ALSO MARK EACH MAG WITH A UNIQUE ID. HELPS IN TRACING SPECIFIC MAG PROBLEMS LATER.

- Prior to this Sig I bought a S&W M&P2.0. It jammed almost every time on the first range trip. During that first trip, a friend I shoot with asked to see it. He field stripped the pistol and oiled the hell out of it. So much so, that my glasses ended up with oil spatters after a few mags. That was the only way it would run for the first 200 or so rounds.
My 1911s require just a light coating of lubricant and they will run like a Swiss watch. After My 2.0 incident, I now generously lubricate any new polymer pistol I buy, prior to the first range trip.

FINE IF IT'S NECESSARY TO MAKE THE GUN RUN AND IS A TEMPORARY MEASURE. GENERALLY THOUGH IT'S BAD PRACTICE. EVENTUALLY GUMS UP AND WILL COLLECT DEBRIS FROM FIRING. IMO, SAME FOR THE PISTOL ITSELF. EXCESSIVE LUBING SHOULD NOT BE NECESSARY. NEVER HAD A GUN THAT NEEDED IT TO WORK RELIABLY...SINCE 1962.

- If all fails, send it back to Sig under warranty. Something is wrong with the pistol. Provide them with as much detailed info as possible. Call CS first and discuss it.

FWIW, my own P320C 9mm is not picky at all with ammo. Runs low-mid range reloads, factory ball ammo and +P+ defensive ammo. Ejection and reliability is fine with anything that goes bang.

Being a Veteran and also a Companies Armorer during my years in the Army, it is with great duress that I overly lubricate any pistol. The amount of oil I applied to that M&P 2.0 would have gotten me an Article 15 back in my Army days.
I appreciate the advice you guys have offered. I would really like for this P320 to operate smoothly. It is a very well thought out firearm. I am sure that after several more rounds and maybe a little tuning of the ejector, it will be fine.

I understand some of the early models had the same problem. My advanced tactical instructor had one of those and experienced the same problems as you. One of the gunsmiths in my class worked on it and eventually tried several different recoil spring weights. They ended up with a lighter weight recoil spring. I was asked to shoot the gun during the first half of a class as the instructor was writing an article to be published about the 320. Except for one Type 3 malfunction it ran without a hiccup. Slide velocity was thought to be the original problem. You might try the same thing to see it it fixes your issue although YMMV.

I would try ammunition with heavier weight bullets and higher velocities if possible. Although they seem to be out of stock of it at present, SGAmmo was selling Winchester Q4318 “NATO spec” stuff with 124 grain bullets at a good price. I’ve tested it before and it’s a little hotter than most 124 grain FMJ, so it might do better in your P320.

That ejection pattern is often due to low slide velocity and anything that speeds it up might help. The 115 grain loads you mention aren’t particularly powerful.

And FWIW, a billed cap or hat is an essential bit of safety equipment when shooting any autoloading firearm.

quote:

Originally posted by TEXVET:
I am a new member and this is my first post on this site, so please bear with me if this topic has been discussed before.

I recently bought a new 9mm Sig P320 FDE pistol. I like everything about this pistol except for one thing. When I shoot it, 9 out of 10 spent cases hit me on the bill of my ball cap or on the top of my glasses frame.

I am not new to shooting semi auto pistols. I have been an avid 1911 guy since my Army days back in 1968. I own several other polymer framed semi auto pistols and I do not experience this case discharge problem with any of them.

Has any of you had this problem? I defer to you for suggestions as to the cause and the solution.

Oh, did I say this pistol is very accurate even thought I am ducking hot brass!!

My Defender did the same thing. After 600ish rounds it stopped..

So like some suggested.. run more rounds through it and see how it goes..

quote:

The 115 grain loads you mention aren’t particularly powerful.

The recent NH State IDPA event seven shooters failed to make the power factor. all were using factory 115 gn and at least five
Winchester White box.

Given that you mention a similar issue with the new M&P 2.0, which is a totally unrelated technical issue, I respectfully recommend you consider your technique. I use the same ammo, am a small guy, with the same guns, and have not seen this issue with either gun, much less both.