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New S&W revolvers are junk compared to the classics...Oh, wait... Login/Join 
Ethics, antics,
and ballistics
Picture of Dtech
posted Hide Post
Now if they would just get rid of the lock, their revolver sales would likely go up by at least 500%. Having personally had an R8 .357 where the lock caused the action to lock up while firing it at the range, I'll never own a revolver with it ever again, not for range use and especially not for personal protection. I know you can remove it / deactivate it, but you shouldn't have to be messing with the internals of any revolver to get it working the way you want or to be plugging holes in the frame unnecessarily. The reason people buy a revolver is for simplicity and reliability right out of the box which the lock complicates and can affect.

Smith can make a darn good revolver, past, present, and future. Just get the locks off of them!


-Dtech
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Posts: 4413 | Location: Central Florida | Registered: April 03, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Expert308
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I've liked the 19/66 for years. I spent a long time looking for an older 4" P&R 66 and finally gave up and bought a new one. This was a few years ago now. It was a decent enough gun, smooth, but just didn't feel the same as the older ones (and it had the lock on it). I sold it after a few months. Last year I finally found a nice 4" 66-1 and snatched it up. The cylinder is a little stiff opening (hopefully it just needs to be taken apart and given a good cleaning and lubrication), but the action feels "right" and it's plenty accurate. I'm happy now.

Oh and yeah, the J-frames have horrible triggers. I had a 642 (enclosed hammer) for a while that had a 12+# pull on it. I put in an Apex spring kit and it dropped to about 9#, but it was still strictly a very short range gun. I've since picked up an older model 36 that's much nicer to shoot.
 
Posts: 7262 | Location: Idaho | Registered: February 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Go ahead punk, make my day
posted Hide Post
I'd buy more if they ditched the lock. I have 2 that I've plugged (MP340 and M63 3") but its money and time consuming.

But I have a 66-3 4" no lock, so I'm really good with the revolvers I have on hand.

I'd probably buy 3-4 revolvers if they ditched the lock. Mostly 3-4" 357s.
 
Posts: 45798 | Registered: July 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of TikritTourist
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I've foolishly sold off a couple 66 snubs over the years, but am looking at the new 66 with the 2.75" barrel. Full length ejector rod makes ejection more positive... ball detent lock up allows for that, since part of old system relied on lock up forward of ejection rod.
Two piece barrel probably eliminates the clocking problem that many have experienced in recent years with canted barrels...
The factory grips are goofy, but that's an easy fix.
Remove lock, plug the hole (dude on another forum sells the plug)
Shoot, think I'm sold on one!


Tomorrow’s battle is won during today’s practice.
- Samurai maxim
 
Posts: 753 | Location: Northeast US | Registered: August 03, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Age Quod Agis
Picture of ArtieS
posted Hide Post
[drift]What source are you guys using for a plug for the lock hole? I have a 629 I'd like to plug.[/drift]



"I vowed to myself to fight against evil more completely and more wholeheartedly than I ever did before. . . . That’s the only way to pay back part of that vast debt, to live up to and try to fulfill that tremendous obligation."

Alfred Hornik, Sunday, December 2, 1945 to his family, on his continuing duty to others for surviving WW II.
 
Posts: 12766 | Location: Central Florida | Registered: November 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of TikritTourist
posted Hide Post
Originalprecision.com

Drop in part, options for blued, brushed stainless, polished, etc. .


Tomorrow’s battle is won during today’s practice.
- Samurai maxim
 
Posts: 753 | Location: Northeast US | Registered: August 03, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Expert308:
I've liked the 19/66 for years. I spent a long time looking for an older 4" P&R 66 and finally gave up and bought a new one. This was a few years ago now. It was a decent enough gun, smooth, but just didn't feel the same as the older ones (and it had the lock on it). I sold it after a few months. Last year I finally found a nice 4" 66-1 and snatched it up. The cylinder is a little stiff opening (hopefully it just needs to be taken apart and given a good cleaning and lubrication), but the action feels "right" and it's plenty accurate. I'm happy now.

Oh and yeah, the J-frames have horrible triggers. I had a 642 (enclosed hammer) for a while that had a 12+# pull on it. I put in an Apex spring kit and it dropped to about 9#, but it was still strictly a very short range gun. I've since picked up an older model 36 that's much nicer to shoot.


Speaking of which, I just took my 19-3 6" barrel to the range today and put 50 rounds of 158 grain.357 through it, it sure did bring a big smile to my face...….it's been a long time since I've shot the wheel gun.....and forgotten how much fun it is.
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Not really from Vienna
Picture of arfmel
posted Hide Post
quote:
the cylinder is a little stiff opening


It may be that someone had the sideplate off and put the screws back in the wrong holes. The flat topped screw goes under the top of the grip panel, and the two dome topped screws are for the middle and front holes in the sideplate. The crane screw is fitted to the crane, and if either of the other screw is put in that hole, a stiff opening cylinder can be the result. Might be worth swapping the position of those two dome headed screws to see if it helps.
 
Posts: 26892 | Location: Jerkwater, Texas | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
I had a new 642 barrel split first trip to the range, S&W repaired it for free then I sold it. Before that one I had another I removed the lock guts on and it came out in pieces. This was about 10yrs ago, ruined me on Smiths.

I've had 3 old Smiths and 6 new ones over the years. I would take an older Smith hands down. The craftmanship, hand fitting and triggers are like no other.

Smith does runs without the lock. Why they dont 86 it is beyond me.
 
Posts: 1871 | Registered: June 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Age Quod Agis
Picture of ArtieS
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by TikritTourist:
Originalprecision.com

Drop in part, options for blued, brushed stainless, polished, etc. .


Thank you.



"I vowed to myself to fight against evil more completely and more wholeheartedly than I ever did before. . . . That’s the only way to pay back part of that vast debt, to live up to and try to fulfill that tremendous obligation."

Alfred Hornik, Sunday, December 2, 1945 to his family, on his continuing duty to others for surviving WW II.
 
Posts: 12766 | Location: Central Florida | Registered: November 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of TikritTourist
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by TikritTourist:
I've foolishly sold off a couple 66 snubs over the years, but am looking at the new 66 with the 2.75" barrel. Full length ejector rod makes ejection more positive... ball detent lock up allows for that, since part of old system relied on lock up forward of ejection rod.
Two piece barrel probably eliminates the clocking problem that many have experienced in recent years with canted barrels...
The factory grips are goofy, but that's an easy fix.
Remove lock, plug the hole (dude on another forum sells the plug)
Shoot, think I'm sold on one!


Disregard my thoughts on the new 66... because I just scored a 686-4 snub!
pre-lock, of course... I'll start a new thread once I have it and run some rounds through it...


Tomorrow’s battle is won during today’s practice.
- Samurai maxim
 
Posts: 753 | Location: Northeast US | Registered: August 03, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
3° that never cooled
Picture of rock185
posted Hide Post
I've purchased S&W revolvers since the '60s, most new. So here's my unsolicited 2¢ worth. During the '70s I had several guns that displayed lazy carry up/cylinder timing. Double actions were no lighter than current S&W revolvers, and often not as uniformly smooth as the new guns.

I've now owned at least a few S&Ws with the MIM lock work. Triggers as received are no heavier than my older guns, and DA triggers are smoother as received than most of my older guns. Something especially important to me is cylinder timing. My late model guns have timed up, not just barely or adequately, but solidly before the hammer falls.

So I don't like the "idea" of MIM any more than S&W purists, but performance wise, there have been no issues with the MIM components in any of my revolvers or semi-autos..........ymmv


NRA Life
 
Posts: 1563 | Location: Under the Tonto Rim | Registered: August 18, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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