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| Freethinker |
We have a new agency hire who has a new (I believe) Glock model 19 pistol for duty carry. When I was checking how its sights were regulated I discovered it had literally the worst trigger pull I’ve encountered in well over half a century of firing many different guns, including a few other Glocks. I didn’t measure the pull weight, but it was heavy, extremely rough, and had three (count ’em!) distinct hesitation points in the pull stroke. We have a Glock armorer (I’m not one myself), but I’m leery of installing aftermarket parts in a duty gun or making any modifications. Is this something that Glock would reasonably be expected to fix if the officer sends it back? Do some LE agencies permit certain aftermarket parts to improve Glock triggers? Will dry-firing help Glock triggers? Any other suggestions? Thanks for all replies. ► 6.4/93.6 “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” — Plato | ||
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| Member |
Take all trigger parts out, and reassemble, had a glock 2 years ago that felt like you describe. I did this and it improved 50%. I do use aftermarket triggers these days, but if i couldn't a good .25 cent polishing and a OEM minus connector i would be just fine with. Sidenote: i know of a few people who tried all they could to figure out some issues with stock triggers and the Striker was getting hung up on a faulty(damaged) channel liner as well.  | |||
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| Member |
Just to make sure if it’s a department gun or one authorized for carry on duty it will need to follow policy. If there is no policy against aftermarket parts I would go that route. Either way have it checked by the armorer. I know of some places that will put in certain parts and some places that are strictly stock but if there’s a policy against it then it leaves him open to all the fun stuff if he uses it in a shooting. If your policy is restrictive then I would suggest the department armorer look it over and if it’s out of spec or ridiculous, fix it. | |||
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| Member |
Stock G19 triggers aren’t too bad. I’d start by replacing the internals. Fortunately there aren’t many parts and you could replace all the internals with OEM parts for under $100. | |||
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| Freethinker |
Has anyone had experience with Glock service and fixing a problem like this? I’m curious about other agencies’ practices, and I’m familiar with policy issues, but even though I establish most firearms policies for my agency, they’re not a panacea in this situation. It doesn’t matter if policy says an aftermarket part is authorized if it causes a malfunction during a gunfight and the officer can’t defend himself or if he has an unintentional discharge and blames it on the part: “It wouldn’t have happened if they hadn’t modified my gun.” Formal authorization doesn’t turn a bad idea into a good one. Part of my problem is that I’m not familiar enough with Glocks to know the difference between a bad idea and a good one. Just disassembling and inspecting the gun is obviously a good idea, so I’ll suggest we start with that, but all other comments are welcome. ► 6.4/93.6 “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” — Plato | |||
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| Just because you can, doesn't mean you should |
A Glock trigger isn't match grade but shouldn't be that be that bad. This is department owned and carried? No way I'd put aftermarket parts in there. Have it properly inspected and serviced to OE standards. ___________________________ Avoid buying ChiCom/CCP products whenever possible. | |||
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| Every day is New Year's Day for Calendar Boy! Oh, and I'm BANNED |
You have to understand th at the best Glock trigger in the world is still a crappy trigger. | |||
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| Freethinker |
Oh, I understand that. For many years, though, I sought the Grail of triggers, but I finally came to the realization that no trigger, regardless of how perfect it was, would turn me into the shot I wanted to be. Learning that I would have to adapt me to the gun and not adapt the gun to me was a liberating and stress-eliminating experience.  But even though I don’t have a lot of experience with Glocks, I have never before encountered anything close to this bad. I’m not down on Glock triggers in general, just this one. ► 6.4/93.6 “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” — Plato | |||
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Member |
I had a glock 34 MOS that would go from about a 3# pull to an 8# pull with no explanation... complete disassembly revealed a burr on the trigger bar and a a burr on the inside of the plastic frame. A new trigger bar and a little sand paper to the inside of the frame fixed the issue. I'd suspect the problem will become evident with complete disassembly. _________________________________________ I'm all jacked up on Mountain Dew... | |||
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| Member |
Hi Sigfreund The first hesitation is the trigger bar making contact with the firing pin safety, the second is the cruciform making contact with firing pin, Do a detailed strip and cleaning on the slide, I'm sure you will find a ton of crudd in there any questions let me know | |||
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| addicted to trailing-throttle oversteer |
Time to detail strip the offending gun and inspect what it has within its innards, looking specifically for any signs that the gun was improperly assembled. I would first dry fire the gun with the slide assembly off. Depending on how the pull seems, then that could give some clue as to what areas to focus on. I'd also check and note how the striker plunger and the striker itself operate while still in the slide before any further disassembly. It should take a competent armorer all of five minutes to do the complete take down and then a few more to review all of the parts once they're all apart, including a thorough inspection of the frame and slide. (Optional: taking out the magazine catch assembly, takedown lever assembly. I would do it just to look for any corrosion and possible condition issues, but since they're not involved with the trigger action it's up to armorer as to how far he thinks is necessary to go.) I would be looking for any signs of the usual stuff, such as dirt, corrosion and other debris. I'd pay particular attention to the springs, both for condition and operation. And definitely inspect the striker and its channel for condition. If all of the parts look okay, before doing any sort of remedial work like polishing or parts replacement I'd clean the existing parts and reassemble the gun and recheck the action, first with the slide off. If that seems normal, then recheck with the reassembled slide back on the frame. If the trigger action returns to its usual mediocre Glock self, then I would likely chalk up the initial condition to a incorrectly assembled gun, such as the trigger spring installed incorrectly or poor seating of the trigger connector. If the trigger is still acting the same, I wouldn't bother with any polishing work. I instead would begin replacing components, first the trigger spring then the trigger bar assembly, and then working my way through everything else, specifically any and all springs, until the offending part(s) are identified and replaced. | |||
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| Member |
about the best process i could think of, while still maintaining a stock glock. | |||
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Member |
Just order a new trigger assembly from whatever Gen it is, either 3 or 4. You can open up three new in box 19’s and get three different trigger pulls. A new trigger assembly is $10-15 depending on where you buy. The pistol will still be stock with 100% factory parts, non-modified. Pulling the current one out and a new one in will take you about 2-3 minutes. I’m no armored or gunsmith and I can do it in that time. What am I doing? I'm talking to an empty telephone | |||
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Member |
Sigfreund, Lot of variables here so excuse my questioning. Is it Gen 3 or Gen 4? Is it a LE version of a Glock 19( Blue Label ) Does it have a NY1 or NY2 trigger? When was the last time was it serviced. One thing that can be done without replacing anyhting with aftermart parts is do a full inspection and full polish job on internals and lube. If it has high volme of shots through it, might be time to do an over haul of parts and springs. ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ | |||
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| I have not yet begun to procrastinate |
Ummm, no. You cannot properly re-assemble a Glock *without* the striker being caught by the cruciform on the trigger bar --> That is what resets the trigger. They are always in contact until the trigger is pulled or the slide is pulled back manually. It sounds like the goofy trigger pull you get when the trigger spring is cocked sideways and not properly attached to the trigger bar. Take down, clean, inspect for burrs. Replacing the whole guts with stock parts is easy, cheap and takes 2 minutes. -------- After the game, the King and the pawn go into the same box. | |||
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| Member |
Sigfruend: Assuming this is a Gen3/4, be certain the trigger bar is straight and not excessively dragging on the right side of the internal plastic frame. It helps to polish basically every inch of this part. Especially the forward-most vertical nub which activates the firing pin safety. Also on the right lateral side of that nub you will see a small "bump:. Often this is excessively large and can be very slightly reduced in size (outward) and polished to minimize drag on the frame. Next, I've run into a very few guns where the part of the trigger safety that interacts with the frame has casting flash, or simply needs a TINY bit of material removed so that it smoothly clears the frame cutout behind the trigger. Also, judiciously polish the firing pin block. You can even subtly round off the sharp edges of the bevel and smooth the lower-most surface that contacts the trigger bar "nub". They also make a reduced-power spring to lower the resistance it takes to elevate this firing pin block. Next, make sure the connector is straight and not bent. Some people accidentally bend them outwards removing them by pulling from the outside too hard. (you can push it out from a small slot on the opposite side. Make sure the connector is polished very well too. Now, be certain the trigger bar spring is installed correctly. The rearward hook should face "up" into the trigger housing, and the forward hook should face "down" into the trigger bar. If this isn't enough, the striker where it contacts the cruciform can be trued and polished as well. I typically run standard or "dot" connectors in my guns, but aftermarket or OEM "minus" connectors can be used to further reduced trigger pull weight. I personally don't like a light striker-fired trigger. Lube everything up good with your favorite oil or grease. Sorry for the long-winded response and good luck. | |||
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| Freethinker |
Thanks for all the detailed, informative replies. I will get with our Glock guy and see what he can do. ► 6.4/93.6 “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” — Plato | |||
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Member |
Try a new trigger housing.... I installed a couple of aftermarket triggers and revert back to the stock after a few range sessions... I found the trigger housing somehow was affected by the aftermarket trigger and it was irreversible. The stock trigger felt notchy and I felt some bumps on the pre travel. I suspected the aftermarket trigger's cruciform somehow caused some worn areas at the cruciform openings.. once I replaced the trigger housing the roughness was gone. | |||
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| I have not yet begun to procrastinate |
Sigfreund, Did you ever find out what was going on with this Glock? -------- After the game, the King and the pawn go into the same box. | |||
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| Lead slingin' Parrot Head  |
Sigfreund I was curious about the resolution for this as well. Was your department Glock armorer able to determine and fix the problem? | |||
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