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Please help me with my new (to me) Wilson Combat Elite Professional Login/Join 
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Picture of P-220
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Some background for you to consider. I have not owned a 1911 handgun since the mid 80's when I shot a 70's era Satin Combat Commander, chambered for .45 acp. I had Wilson, Pachmayr and Bar-Sto parts and pieces, making it even better.

I gravitated away from the Colt, to a 4506 because of the additional barrel length, necessary to get the ballistics for some of the better ammunition of the time. From there I moved to a Glock 21 and from there to the P-220 platform.

After shooting the P-220 platform for years, in .45 acp, I bought a P-220 chambered for .38 Super. I fell in like with the .38 Super round. A while back, I got a hankering for a 1911 chambered for .38 Super.

After following a lot of auctions, a few weeks back, I won an auction for a used Wilson Elite Professional.

Please help me, to avoid spending any more money needlessly.

The folks at Wilson have been great to deal with and I have received two packages of stuff from them.

Today I found out about my gun. Based in the GB listing, I thought it was a steel frame. Oh well, it is a LW frame.

It was born on 08.02.10
Black lightweight frame, black slide
Round butt frame

Now for my questions/issues.
1) They tell me it will take 3-6 months to inspect it, replace any worn springs and parts, replace the night sights and install a magwell speed chute. Is this something I should only allow Wilson to do, or are there other good Gunsmiths who can do the work in less time? No need to worry about the magwell/chute. I have been told the round butt will not permit the installation of the mainspring housing/magwell.

2) With a 3/16th Allen wrench, I am unable to loosen the recoil spring guide rod. Until I can remove it, I am unable to further field strip the handgun. I am reluctant to force it, because every time I force something, it usually ends up bad. Any thoughts?

3) I bought the black G-10 flat bottom diagonal grips. With the round butt, these grips are not a good option as they protrude from the bottom/back of the frame. I am going to look at some of the exotic wood, double diamond, beveled grips. Are there any that you find striking, on a black frame?

4) The reason I was going to add the Mainspring housing/magwell chute, was to better accommodate the extra length of the Wilson 9 and 10 round mags. Without the magwell, I am leaning towards a non-Wilson, flat bottom mag. I see Wilson sells the Metalform flat bottom mags. Do you have any experience with the Metalform mags? Would you buy and use them? Are there better alternatives out there? I plan to keep the 9 and 10 round mags for the range. I will use the flat bottom mags when I carry this handgun.

I have been shooting since the early 70's, so I know my way around guns in a general sense. With the slide off of the frame, I do not see any appreciable wear, at least based on my limited knowledge. What should parts and places should I be examining more closely?

Thank you for your help, I wish I would have inquired about some of these things before I began spending money.

I am still pumped, this is a really beautiful handgun.


Niech Zyje P-220

Steve
 
Posts: 36834 | Location: 45174 | Registered: December 09, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
Picture of GaryBF
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Without knowing the details of the gun you purchased, I offer this very general observation: Most "high-end" guns like yours do not see much use because they are so expensive and prized. And people unload them because of the limited use and substantial investment. So, I think it is unnecessary to have the gun inspected and resprung. Shoot it and enjoy it. Wait for a problem to arise before getting it fixed.
 
Posts: 11875 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Why, yes I do.





Niech Zyje P-220

Steve
 
Posts: 36834 | Location: 45174 | Registered: December 09, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thank you. I have already replaced the grip screws. I was surprised to see them buggered up.

The only other signs of wear are on the left side of the muzzle and the high point of the thumb safety.

The rails look damn near like new.


Niech Zyje P-220

Steve
 
Posts: 36834 | Location: 45174 | Registered: December 09, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of mcs1564
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quote:
Originally posted by P-220:
No need to worry about the magwell/chute. I have been told the round butt will not permit the installation of the mainspring housing/magwell.


Is it a round butt magwell?


------------
SP2022 - 9mm
 
Posts: 1260 | Location: CT | Registered: January 28, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Membership has its privileges
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quote:
Originally posted by mcs1564:
quote:
Originally posted by P-220:
No need to worry about the magwell/chute. I have been told the round butt will not permit the installation of the mainspring housing/magwell.


Is it a round butt magwell?


No, I was hoping to have them install their part # 626B, which is a mainspring housing/magewell combination.

Do you know of a magwell that can be installed with a round butt frame?

Thank you.


Niech Zyje P-220

Steve
 
Posts: 36834 | Location: 45174 | Registered: December 09, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of mcs1564
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quote:
Originally posted by P-220:
quote:
Originally posted by mcs1564:
quote:
Originally posted by P-220:
No need to worry about the magwell/chute. I have been told the round butt will not permit the installation of the mainspring housing/magwell.


Is it a round butt magwell?


No, I was hoping to have them install their part # 626B, which is a mainspring housing/magewell combination.

Do you know of a magwell that can be installed with a round butt frame?

Thank you.


Take a look at 627ARB (http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Bullet-Proof-One-Piece-Magwell-Full-Size-Round-Butt-Aluminum/productinfo/627ARB/).

I would think there should be no issues with it.


------------
SP2022 - 9mm
 
Posts: 1260 | Location: CT | Registered: January 28, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thank you for the info. I will e-mail them back. I think I asked specifically about part # 626B.


Niech Zyje P-220

Steve
 
Posts: 36834 | Location: 45174 | Registered: December 09, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If this was a standard colt with wilson parts, i would say sure seek another repair, pistol smith.

This how ever is a custom gun, by one of the most sought after custom makers. Having another smith tune it for you.... strikes me wrong. I would not take my 70 olds 442 w30 to the porsche dealer for service, nor would i take my 997 TT to the chevy dealer.

Spend the time ship it to wilson, have your work done. You will not regret it.

Any clue where i could find that 70 olds or 997, i misplaced them
 
Posts: 6633 | Location: Virginia | Registered: December 23, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by DSgrouse:
If this was a standard colt with wilson parts, i would say sure seek another repair, pistol smith.

This how ever is a custom gun, by one of the most sought after custom makers. Having another smith tune it for you.... strikes me wrong. I would not take my 70 olds 442 w30 to the porsche dealer for service, nor would i take my 997 TT to the chevy dealer.

Spend the time ship it to wilson, have your work done. You will not regret it.



This absolutely! You have a very nice 1911, why risk having someone else work on it and not having it up to WC standards.

My SA Loaded 9mm came with Metalform mags. I had a number of feeding issues with them. YMMV. No issues what so ever with my WC mags.

On your guide rod I would tell WC the problem you have and they may very well take care of it under warranty. On my used WC Classic I had an issue with it not locking back all the time. Didn't matter which mag I used. Talked with them and they sent me a prepaid shipping label and I had it back in either three or four days from the time I shipped it back to them. My only inconvenience was I had to box it up and make a run to FedEx.
 
Posts: 875 | Location: South Dakota | Registered: May 21, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Agree with the poster who said just take as is and shoot it. The likely hood it needs an overhaul or anything replaced to run perfectly is exceedingly low! I have taken many an old gun ( in some cases 100+ years old) right to the range and shot it with no functional problems what so ever. It is rather common to find stories of ww2 era or older 1911's found loaded with 70+ year old ammo being taken right out and fired with full reliability. I have never cared for full length guide rods in 1911's but if it Wilson I am sure they can talk you through field stripping no problem. As you may be aware back in the pre internet era rarely did anyone frequently replace springs like so many banter about today.
 
Posts: 3268 | Location: Finally free in AZ! | Registered: February 14, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Wilson carries the 9x38 Super Metalform magazine, it ought to do fine if you want a flush fit. I would not put a chute on a concealed carry gun. The ten shot magazines protrude a quarter inch, the chute protrudes a quarter inch on a larger perimeter. Even more likely to "print."

Ask Wilson if one of their low profile magazine bases will fit the 10x38. They only show .45 and 9mm parts but surely there is some overlap.

I would try to change to a one piece captive recoil spring guide rod. Maybe that two piece has been drilled and Loctited to convert it.
 
Posts: 3278 | Location: Florence, Alabama, USA | Registered: July 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I made it so far,
now I'll go for more
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First off there is only one spring you should replace. The recoil spring. The others should be good forever, almost.

The grips you can blend with a file after you get your MSH/magwell.

You may have to blend the magwell to match the frame as well.

Any decent smith could do the job in about 20 minutes, no need to wait 6 months.
Hell, do it yourself.

As far as the guide rod goes, I agree with the past post that says go for it. Someone has to at some point. Just make sure you are turning it in the proper direction.

Bob


I am no expert, but think I am sometimes.
 
Posts: 4578 | Location: South Carolina | Registered: January 23, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Regarding the recoil spring: make sure it's not the type that is designed to be removed from the chamber end. If this is the case, when you retract the slide, you should see a hole through the rod near the back end (only seen with the slide pulled/locked all the way to the rear). If so, take a paper clip straighten it and make a short "L" shape on one end. Slip the short end into the hole and ease the slide forward. This should capture the spring and you can then disassemble much like a SIG etc.
 
Posts: 684 | Registered: December 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by rbert0005:
First off there is only one spring you should replace. The recoil spring. The others should be good forever, almost.

The grips you can blend with a file after you get your MSH/magwell.

You may have to blend the magwell to match the frame as well.

Any decent smith could do the job in about 20 minutes, no need to wait 6 months.
Hell, do it yourself.

As far as the guide rod goes, I agree with the past post that says go for it. Someone has to at some point. Just make sure you are turning it in the proper direction.

Bob


Seriously?

P-220, you have a $3000 plus 1911.(even though you may not have paid that) DO not send it to bubba gun smith to file on. If you want work done on the pistol, ESPECIALLY installing Wilsons bullet proof magwell, SEND IT TO THEM. Anyone else truly qualified to do the work has a wait longer than Wilson. Any kind of blending which is required to properly install the magwell will require the frame to be refinished. Assume it's ArmorTuff. That is if they can install their round butt mag well on an already round butt frame without one. It may or may not be able to be done, call and ask them.

Does the pistol have a flat wire recoil spring or a standard spring? It it has their flat wire spring kit in it, I highly doubt it needs a new one. The flat wire spring is good for 20K round per wilson combat. That gun hasn't had 20K rounds through it.

If the gun looks right and feels right, shoot it an enjoy it. No reason to send it off unless something is wrong or you want the mag well work.

Wilson Combat takes care of their customers and they service their firearms with no questions asked if there is an issue. They have THE BEST customer service in the gun industry bar none.


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Posts: 1345 | Registered: October 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Sparkyk:

On your guide rod I would tell WC the problem you have and they may very well take care of it under warranty. On my used WC Classic I had an issue with it not locking back all the time. Didn't matter which mag I used. Talked with them and they sent me a prepaid shipping label and I had it back in either three or four days from the time I shipped it back to them. My only inconvenience was I had to box it up and make a run to FedEx.


^^^^ And this is typical for Wilson Combat. They take care of their customers and their guns. Used, new whatever. Unless you drag it behind your truck. Then that's on you. Big Grin


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Posts: 1345 | Registered: October 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thank you for all of your suggestions. Please keep them coming.

I received my second e-mail from Wilson today, confirming that because the frame was modified, it is not a candidate for any of their MS/magwells.

Ok, so the magwell is out, not the end of the world, I will search for the best 9 round, flush mags.

The night sights are not super bright, like new, but in a pitch black room, I can easily pick them up, especially with the contrasting front/rear.

Now for the FLGR. I hate to ask a stupid question, but do not want to make matters worse. What direction should I be turning the Allen wrench, to remove the front half of the two piece FLGR? is it lefty loosey? or should I be turning the wrench to the right?

Ok, a second stupid question, if it does not have a flat recoil spring, are there any issues with replacing a round spring with a flat spring?

If I can get it apart, I may forgo sending it to Wilson for now.

Thanks again for all of your help.


Niech Zyje P-220

Steve
 
Posts: 36834 | Location: 45174 | Registered: December 09, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If it's a 2010 gun I doubt it has a flat wire spring. And I'd get rid of that 2 piece guide rod as soon as you can get it apart. It should come apart lefty loosie.

You should be able to replace the current guide rod/spring with this kit: http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Fl...-Lb/productinfo/651/

Also, you can remove the slide from the frame without removing the guide rod. If you do that, maybe you can see what's going on with the 2 piece rod. Just line up the notch in the slide with the slide stop and press it out. Once the slide stop is out the top end will come off.


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Posts: 1345 | Registered: October 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thank you.

I was able to break it loose.

After getting it apart, I am convinced it was shot very little.

I am also quite impressed and how this is built.
I plan to clean it, lube it and shoot it, hopefully this weekend.

I will read the thread about the FLGRs again.

Other than a potential pain getting it apart, are there other potential problematic issues with this guide rod?

I think I am going to try a pair of the Wilson Cocobolo double diamond grips.

Thanks again for your help.


Niech Zyje P-220

Steve
 
Posts: 36834 | Location: 45174 | Registered: December 09, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The 2 piece rod can come unscrewed during firing. That's the only real issue with it I think. And it may or may not.

The flat wire springs are new tech. Wilson says 18K-20K self defense ammo. 40K using range ammo on the flat wire. Wilson doesn't put out stuff that isn't thoroughly tested.


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