So, it can be done. I shot my Redhawk .44 mag for a good long time, and as dirty as it got, it always functioned, loaded and cleared without issue.

Two weekends ago, it was cold for central Florida; mid 50s or so. Even though the gun is relatively dry, without excessive oil, the cylinder rotation was very stiff. So stiff, in fact, that I assisted the rotation with my free hand while cocking the hammer. Double action was equally bad with a ridiculously hard trigger pull.

Once back at the house, I gave it a full disassembly and cleaning. The issue was carbon buildup on the pinion or axle on which the cylinder rotates. Once that was clean, the gun was happy again.

The hardest carbon to remove is the stuff that has accumulated in the cylinder lightening cuts. I guess it is blasted on at high temperature and velocity and it really LIKES it there. Hoppe's is not doing it with the last little bits. I'm going to pick up and try some Never Dull as I have seen it recommended for stubborn powder and lead marks.

Other than that, now that the cleaning is complete, it's back to being good to go.

Time to go shoot more .44!

Gratuitous picture:

A Smith & Wesson has a "gas ring" to deflect as much of the gap blast fouling away from the cylinder arbor as possible. Of course most of their gun designs can be traced back to 1896.

Actually surprised that carbon was able to build up enough to affect the function like that. Must have been 100s or 1000s or rounds right?

Redhawks are some of the classiest yet rugged looking pistols ever IMHO by the way.

Those cuts on the cylinder are called flutes. A bronze bore brush and solvent will do a pretty good job removing the burned powder residue. A S&W with a hard cocking cituation can somewhat eat itself as its hand is rather sharp and it will dig into the cylinders ratchet. Ruger is a much bolder design. I've had several of their DA and SA revolvers.

Good to know! I LOVE shooting mine. In fact most people at the range want to shoot it when I bring it. Even have some buddies wives that insist on shooting it every group range trip. My .44Mag and my .308 are a favorite of the ladies

I had a similar problem last week with my SP101, and I resolved it in the same way you did...by breaking it down and cleaning the cylinder arbor. It runs like new now. As for getting the carbon off of the cylinder and other parts of the gun, I found that lead removal wipes work really well. I've been told they can damage blueing, but on my stainless guns they work great!

quote:

Actually surprised that carbon was able to build up enough to affect the function like that. Must have been 100s or 1000s or rounds right?

Probably 300-500 commercial reloads. I didn't shoot all of them; as cruiser68 notes, EVERYONE wants to shoot a .44 when you bring one to the range.

quote:

I had a similar problem last week with my SP101, and I resolved it in the same way you did...by breaking it down and cleaning the cylinder arbor. It runs like new now. As for getting the carbon off of the cylinder and other parts of the gun, I found that lead removal wipes work really well. I've been told they can damage blueing, but on my stainless guns they work great!

I want to try the lead wipes but I haven't found any yet in local shops. I have also read that they will damage blued guns, but are great for stainless, especially removing the flash rings from the cylinder face. I've done pretty well with a bronze brush and Hoppe's, but a little better polish would be nice.

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Those cuts on the cylinder are called flutes.

Thank you. Good to know.

Thanks also to those who pointed out that the cylinder shaft is technically called the arbor.

I appreciate the additional education. I'm familiar with "arbor" for the shaft diameter of tools, but didn't know it applied to revolvers.

for flute cleaning I've come to like a little Ballistol & 0000 steel wool lightly applied....
There's other ways/fluids/methods, but this is what I like on stainless.

Will Kroil do the trick? I have some pretty nasty carbon on the front of the cylinder of my Alaskan.

Yes, Kroil does a great job melting carbon. It's what we were taught to use in our AR armorer's class. With a mild scrubby pad if safe for the surface.

Artie, that's a classic sign of unburnt powder flakes, and/or lead slivers, under the ejector star. I bet you got that out of there without realizing it. That's the only thing that have every caused my revos to get sticky, or downright refuse to rotate.

Bring that bad boy if we ever have another Florida shoot!

A lead cloth will be the best five bucks you ever spent. It'll take the stuff right off the cylinder and the flutes.

The cylinder face will take slightly more work.

I do love 44 Magnum. So much so I recently added a Winchester 1892 rifle in the caliber.

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Originally posted by 453030:
I do love 44 Magnum. So much so I recently added a Winchester 1892 rifle in the caliber.

I've been a fan for decades. I've owned a number of Ruger Super Blackhawks, S&W M29's and 1 Dan Wesson. I'm down to a M29 and a Winchester 94 trapper that I've owned since the mid 70's. I've reloaded thousands of rounds, especially when I was shooting Silhouette in the late 70's and early 80's. It's my overall favorite caliber for general shooting for fun.

Jim

quote:

Originally posted by Jimbo54:
I've been a fan for decades. I've owned a number of Ruger Super Blackhawks, S&W M29's and 1 Dan Wesson. I'm down to a M29 and a Winchester 94 trapper that I've owned since the mid 70's. I've reloaded thousands of rounds, especially when I was shooting Silhouette in the late 70's and early 80's. It's my overall favorite caliber for general shooting for fun.
Jim

That is great. I have 3 Smith- 29-5 Classic (5" full lug), 629-4 RSR and a more recent 629PC. I love them all. Can't wait to get the rifle out.

Never Dull is the thing!

Took the last deposits off the flutes slicker than snot, and even cleaned the outside of the forcing cone and inside of the top strap to silver.

Great stuff for stainless revolvers.