For those in the know about action jobs, I'd like to fine tune the trigger pull of my old P225/P6.

Here is what I have done so far: 19lb mainspring (old style/original spring, strut, and seat). GGI spring kit. Lightly polished the trigger bar, bottom of the safety lock/plunger in the slide, bottom of the mainspring strut and the sides of the hammer. *I didn't touch the sear/hammer engagement surface.

This has drastically improved the trigger. I'd rate it as good and certainly just fine for carry (above average for any DA/SA gun).

However, compared to my GGI tuned P226 which has just about a perfect DA pull, my P225 has some inconsistencies in the DA pull. (Captain Obvious, I wasn't expecting it to be as good!)

What would be the most likely cause of the inconsistent DA pull, the old style mainspring, strut, and seat or; the hammer/sear surface? A little of both?

If I can find a new style longer plastic seat I'll swap to the new system, it is like a $5 part and I have the short strut and mainspring already on hand.

Extra credit: will a P226 SRT kit work in a P6?

I did a polishing job on a 229 that I used to have. Basically, I detail stripped the pistol and every surface, where I saw wear, was stoned until there is no more contact between those surfaces.

Off the top of my head, several other areas I polished were the sides of the trigger, the top of the hammer strut where it goes inside the hammer, the sides of the sear and the sides of the safety lever. I did slightly polish the interface surfaces of the sear and hammer. I broke all the sharp edges of the stamped parts.

On pins where there was wear, I used basic tooth paste, which didn't have added large particles of whiteners, etc., to coat the pins, reassembled, dry fired, etc. You could use jewelers rouge, also.

All of the stone work I did was with a very fine stone and in small amounts. I would cold blue each piece I stoned, reassemble, dry fire the pistol about a hundred times, disassemble to check for wear, repeat. I spent most of my time disassembling, reassembling and dry firing the pistol.

Mine was to the point where there was no rubbing of any parts that I worked on, but I still had the trigger take up and stacking. I have no idea about how to correct that.

quote:

Extra credit: will a P226 SRT kit work in a P6?

Yes, in fact any SRT kits will work as they all use the same Sear and Safety Lever.

I don't own a P225/P6, but do my own action tuning on my Sigs and other pistols.

Without seeing, trying the gun, I have no specific idea what your issue may be. Just two general comments though:

1) With my 1995 P229, I changed the Old Style long metal hammer strut to the New Style plastic base. It resulted in a smoother DA pull with less stacking. Monumental change? No, but a noticeable one. I use Wolff RP 18 and 19# mainsprings (hammer springs) with no misfires.

2) If you get the new assembly, make sure to polish the top of the strut (saddle) where it contacts the hammer pin. Actually, do the same with your current strut and see if that makes any difference. The contact point has a high PSI loading during the DA cycle.

Thanks for the info guys!

Good to know about the SRT, I may pick a kit up after all. Dry fire, I think the reset is fine. At the range on Saturday I was wanting to short stroke the trigger 'cause I'm spoiled by my GGI tuned P226.

Nipper, that was exactly the info I was looking for; that making the change to the new style strut and seat is noticeable and also about polishing the top of the strut. I suspected these 2 issues were a large part of what I'm feeling in the trigger.