I’ll just start with this: I can’t leave well enough alone. I do little things here and there to make the gun run better for me. My TRP-O was great out of the box, but I still swapped grips, rear sight, and guide rod. That applies to the 320 as well. I have it down to what mods I like to do with the F models:

- GGI PELT2
- X-Ray 3 U-notch sights
- GGI guide rod (Compact guns don’t get this)

9mm F got this. The .45 F got it too, though it did need an 18# RS... feels great at that weight. Then there’s the .357 F. The .357 got the same modest mods above aside from a 20# RS to go with the GGI GR. However...

It, the .357, feels over sprung with the 20#. The factory spring felt better even without the added .5 oz of mass that the GGI GR/1911 spring has. Here’s the odd part... I could have sworn that the factor, flat wire, 357/40/45 “green spring” is also 20 pounds. Do I try an 18-18.5# spring? Am I backwards and should I try a 22# (which, oddly enough, Galloway has as an option with their GR)? I’m kinda scratching my head on this one. I’ll probably end up getting a calibration pack and timing a Bill Drill or two with each weight. The fastest, clean average will be the answer. Right?

Side note... does anyone have experience with the Springer Precision tungsten guide rod? It... intrigues me...

Thanks y’all!

When I was converting my Glock 21 to .38 Super, I bought the recoil spring variety pack. Started with the strongest spring that was available and replaced it with the next strongest spring. Gradually decreasing the rating until I made it to the strongest spring that allowed the gun to cycle properly.

Not sure if the tungsten rod will do you as much good as a stainless model. You may be better served with a muzzle brake or a ballast weight that mounts on your rail.

Excuse my ignorance... what hiccups will too light a spring cause? I know too heavy will cause failures to feed or extract due to the decrease in slide velocity if you’re way oversprung. A little added flip and nosediving is another indication that you’re over sprung. I really need to get a timer out to the range...

Braking a .357? Could be fun... The ballast weight on the rail is a no-go. I already have a light there. I think the vision for this is “hot-rod, full size carry gun.”

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
When I was converting my Glock 21 to .38 Super, I bought the recoil spring variety pack. Started with the strongest spring that was available and replaced it with the next strongest spring. Gradually decreasing the rating until I made it to the strongest spring that allowed the gun to cycle properly.

Not sure if the tungsten rod will do you as much good as a stainless model. You may be better served with a muzzle brake or a ballast weight that mounts on your rail.

With a properly matched spring, the slide will be pushed forward enough where the slide does not hit the frame or strike the takedown lever/pin while providing enough travel to extract, eject, and chamber the next round.

Too much spring would not allow the slide to travel far enough to cycle, rendering it inoperative.
Too little spring weight will allow the slide to hit the frame each time. Causing stress beyond the design limitations of the internals of the FCU as well as your grip module. Eventually causing undue damage to the internals rendering it inoperable. Not unlike taking it apart and hitting the FCU with a hammer. Worse yet, if your grip module cracks while you are firing it... If they could design a FCU that could take this kind of stress, wouldn't they offer a P320 in 10mm?

Using a brake on 357 Sig is effective. A proper brake will do wonders for your second shot placement and groups, even with a 50AE.

Too light of a spring can cause undue wear (as mentioned above), impart more felt recoil (related to above) and cause feeding problems, even failure to go into battery as it's too weak to push a round out of the feed lips, into the chamber and lock up the barrel.

I was thinking too light would cause the gun to beat itself to hell. Failures to go into battery make sense too. I think the solution as to springing is this: a recoil spring calibration pack, a timer, and... a bunch of bill drills. The fastest clean run is the solution.

When switching to X-rays, what sight combination would be factory stock? Or which combo would produce shoot the dot style? I want to replace my SC sights with X-rays but don’t want to experiment. Thanks.

I put the X-rays on too love them. And installed the Sig flat trigger not the Apex one. Love it.too.