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Rimfire Suppressor cleaning--the basics for Silicon Oil Tx Login/Join 
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Picture of SIGfourme
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Some of us use the Silicon Oil pretreatment. Unfortunately , the link is gone--but I will do my best to remember the "story". Someone in the Los Vegas area had a blog about cleaning rimfire cans. Really detailed research--using everything from Kroil--Kerosene--Mobil 1 Synthetic--DOT Brake Fluid--Silicon Oil. His recommendation was to pre treat rimfire suppressors using Pure Silicon Oil. Start with 100% clean suppressor. To achieve 100% clean--tumble with stainless steel media in a rock tumbler for 24 hours. ONLY Stainless steel baffles can be tumbled. Do not tumble the ceracoated/painted tubes--the paint will come off.
1) Wash all parts in Mineral Spirits or acetone to remove any contaminants. I wear Nitrile gloves and use surgical clamps to handle the clean parts.
2) Place all dry parts in a 10 x 10 baking tin and bake at 225 for 10-15 minutes, include outer tube.
3) Remove and place hot parts into a large glass jar containing Pure Silicon Oil. Use surgical clamps to transfer. Large Mason jar about 6 inch in height x 4 x4. Order 500 ml Pure Silicon Oil off Amazon (2 500 ml).
4) Leave in until cool--about 1 hour.
5) Transfer to another 10 x 10 baking tin to dry for 48 hours. Messy- I place a paper towel on bottom of baking tin to absorb the excess Silicon Oil.
6) My variation--1st baffle gets an additional coat of Automobile Anti Seize. Nitrile gloves because its just messy. I apply Anti Seize to any tube in tube systems (Axoim-Ruger-Mask-Mite--Singer-Liberty Regulator).

7) Reassemble and wipe excess Silicon Oil or Anti Seize off the suppressor.

8) Apply Anti Seize to suppressor threads or any threaded barrels.

I thought this needed to be written down because it really makes cleaning a suppressor easier. All my take apart suppressors get this pre treatment. 22 caliber suppressors tend to get very dirty. This makes cleaning very easy. My past experience was a dental pick and /or dremel to clean up a "dirty" 22 suppressor. Aluminum baffles CANNOT be tumbled. Aluminum monocores are the worst to clean. Pre treat with Silicon Oil AND apply Antiseize to the first chamber makes clean up easy.
I use an inexpensive Harbor Freight tumbler. Amazon for Stainless steel media and Silicon Oil.
 
Posts: 2295 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for writing this down. I do the same pre-treatment. One variation, I use an abrasive meadia filter/funnel similar to this once the parts have cooled in order to capture as much of the residual silicone oil for reuse.

As you note this makes cleaning rimfire cans so much easier. Short of a soda blaster this is probably the best home cleaning method.



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Posts: 5423 | Location: Wichita, KS (for now)…always a Texan… | Registered: April 14, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Why not just use the 'dip". Quickest and easiest method to clean a supressor.


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Posts: 240 | Location: Kiawah Island, SC | Registered: July 25, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The “Dip” creates lead acetate - which can be absorbed thru the skin causing lead poisoning.
The “Dip” is considered hazardous waste and needs to be disposed of properly.
Can’t use Dip on aluminum.
Overall - using the “Dip” is not a good idea.
 
Posts: 2295 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Posts: 3718 | Registered: August 13, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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So why spend this much time cleaning something that gets that dirty? I'd rather spend 10-15 getting it half way clean. Then just go shoot another 1K through it.




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Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat.
 
Posts: 8837 | Location: Woodstock, GA | Registered: August 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by SIGfourme:
The “Dip” creates lead acetate - which can be absorbed thru the skin causing lead poisoning.
The “Dip” is considered hazardous waste and needs to be disposed of properly.
Can’t use Dip on aluminum.
Overall - using the “Dip” is not a good idea.


The dip is a great idea, just wear gloves and drop off the waste at proper disposal place.
Why would anyone get aluminum .22 supressor?


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Posts: 240 | Location: Kiawah Island, SC | Registered: July 25, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Why would anyone get aluminum .22 supressor?


Other than cheap to do machine work on & light? Not sure?




Train how you intend to Fight

Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat.
 
Posts: 8837 | Location: Woodstock, GA | Registered: August 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by myrottiety:
quote:
Why would anyone get aluminum .22 supressor?


Other than cheap to do machine work on & light? Not sure?

As I do not do machine work on my supressors this is pointless. The advantages of ss far surpass any of aluminum and when actually shooting, the weight difference can hardly be felt when factoring the weight of the gun and loaded magazine.


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Posts: 240 | Location: Kiawah Island, SC | Registered: July 25, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by imfrogman:
quote:
Originally posted by myrottiety:
quote:
Why would anyone get aluminum .22 supressor?


Other than cheap to do machine work on & light? Not sure?

As I do not do machine work on my supressors this is pointless. The advantages of ss far surpass any of aluminum and when actually shooting, the weight difference can hardly be felt when factoring the weight of the gun and loaded magazine.


I agree with you. I meant it's cheaper material to buy plus easier for the manufacturers to machine. Easier on tooling. So they can sell them for less.

Why someone would want to skimp $50-$100 on a can they are putting a $200 stamp towards. I'll never know.




Train how you intend to Fight

Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat.
 
Posts: 8837 | Location: Woodstock, GA | Registered: August 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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