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After sitting days in Hoppes and time in the UC, the front cap remains stuck on. And the Sig tool for its removal gets no purchase on the cap. Suggestions?
 
Posts: 36 | Registered: August 31, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Have you backed the rear off?

Most of the time I loosen one end 1/4 of a turn, then loosen the other. I repeat till one can turn freely. Then i take it all apart.

Is the front cap damaged?

Now if the front cap is sealed on, rocksett, loctite. you have a couple of ways you can go about it.

If rocksett, soak in water for 2 days, then try to undo the front cap.

Loctite, ad some heat. Get one of the butane torches for cooking. evenly at heat around the rim while the can is secure in a vise. VOX makes a can clamp. Once the end cap is heated, and the rear cap is off. Use your tool to loosen the front cap. It is slow constant pressure. Rapid movements won't break it. SLOWLY apply tension to the tool hold it, then inclease ever so slowly, hold, increase, hold. till you break it free.
 
Posts: 5434 | Location: Virginia | Registered: December 23, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of myrottiety
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I don't have any advice here. But reminds me of when a buddy of mine monkey fisted my 30 cal taper mount can on.

I had to put the suppressor in a vice and turn the rifle to get it out. Roll Eyes




Train how you intend to Fight

Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat.
 
Posts: 7951 | Location: Alpharetta, GA | Registered: August 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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I never thought of Hoppe’s as a penetrating solvent. If the other suggested methods don’t work, I would try immersion soaking in Kroil. (I don’t, BTW, have any idea what “UC” refers to.)




“Most men … can seldom accept the simplest and most obvious truth if it … would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions … which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabrics of their lives.”
— Leo Tolstoy
 
Posts: 40484 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Meant Ultrasonic. Phone spell checker. I believe I’m going to have to drill two holes for a pin spammer and just get a new cap.
 
Posts: 36 | Registered: August 31, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Challer:
Meant Ultrasonic. Phone spell checker. I believe I’m going to have to drill two holes for a pin spammer and just get a new cap.


Before you to that use heat.
 
Posts: 5434 | Location: Virginia | Registered: December 23, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Front cap should not have thread locker on it.
Penetrating oil would be best to soak front end cap--Kroil.
Make sure you are going in the right direction to loosen.
A strap wrench might get some purchase on the front cap.
When all else fails--> back to Sig
Learned that lesson early on with Rimfire cans.
Anti seize is your friend.
https://www.sigsauer.com/wp-co...1924-01-REV00_LR.pdf
 
Posts: 1439 | Location: Southeast CT | Registered: January 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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stick it in the freezer for an hour or so. (maybe a ziplock baggie if wife objects).
 
Posts: 2600 | Location: IN | Registered: January 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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After penetrating oil, sea foam, came apart with some effort. Baffles were loose and free. I still feel the Sig front cap tool is a POS but for now I'm good. I use nickel anti seize on all my cans (this one was new and had factory lube). I shouldn't have problems again.
 
Posts: 36 | Registered: August 31, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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