Waiting on my first SiCo can, currently in jail, what part of the MB are you guys applying anti seize to? I’ll be using ASR and AAC 51t mounts, so the threads or the teeth? My experience has been with AAC cans and 51t mounts and I’ve never bothered/needed to do anything but periodically clean the mounts, can removal hasn’t been an issue.
Also I assume aluminum based anti seize is sufficient. Looking at Permatex products the Al is rated to 1,600, Cu to 1,800 and Ni is 2,400 degrees.
A Veteran, whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve, is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America" for an amount of "up to and including my life."
Shooting 223 suppressed I have noticed 1) Gas coming from the charging handle-better with Gemtech bolt, just purchased Bootleg bolt carrier with BF sale. 2) Significant lead and COPPER build up on the QD flash hider. I shoot a lot- I need log gloves to remove a very hot suppressor. The flash hider was coated with lead and copper deposits --creating a "weld". A lot of elbow grease, Hoppes, Butch'e Bore shine and ammonia removed the layers of build up. Would antiseize have helped? IDK
Nickel anti-seize will work better than any grease and doesn't corrode like the copper version can. Since using on my QD Surefire and Sigs, never had a problem. Without, they can seem to weld on. The silicon greases can work but have limits. I use the nickel on the threads of the suppressors as well and since, can go 100s of rounds and take down/cleaning is much easier.
I use anti-seize on everything. I've seen several shotgun chokes "carbon welded" onto expensive shotguns. When metal meets metal and gets hot, problems can occur. Throw in the residue left by ammo.....cheap insurance.
Also, my keyboard is fixed.
Posts: 15462 | Location: Lexington, KY | Registered: October 15, 2006