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Making my first knife....all step inside to offer advice Login/Join 
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Ok, going to make my first knife with the help of my Son. We want to go the "easy" route and just cut, file, and sand. We can probably have my uncle (owns a machine shop) help us harden the knife after it's nearly completed.

Here are a list of tools that I have:
Electric cutting/grinding tool
Bench grinder
Vise
Clamps
Files (many files on hand)
Sharpening stone
sand paper
1/2" drill
Drill press
Hack saw

I'm going to link 2 videos. In one, the guy used an old saw blade for the knife. In the other video, the guy had some steel stock he used. If I go the "steel stock" route, where do I get the material ? Home Depot? What thickness should I be looking to get?

Links to the videos.
I'm going to use his template to make the knife in this video....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkRjPEFXBpU

This guy used an old saw blade
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M52pHh6rqtQ


I hope that this project is successful. If so, I'll make a few more blades.
 
Posts: 86 | Registered: August 06, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
High Speed Low Drag
Operator in the Innis Mode
Picture of Ke Bo Li
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don't even think about Home Depot for steel stock
a leaf spring from a wrecking yard would not be a bad option
but may be a bit of a challenge first time to this rodeo

lots of on-line vendors for raw materials
here is one for a start: http://admiralsteel.com/
no need to go all in the first time, its quite a daunting task actually
I'd start with a straight high carbon steel, being easiest to heat treat

your mileage may vary

have fun


***********************
I think the "check engine" light is burned out
 
Posts: 644 | Location: Portland,OR | Registered: October 20, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Throwin sparks
makin knives
Picture of sybo
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Jantz knife supply has precision ground 01 steel in a number of sizes and thicknesses. I'd go that route and save ALOT of time and energy. I think I would work on my "knife-making" skills first rather than salvaging steel. Just my two cents.
It is a fabulous hobby! Throwing sparks is FUN!! If I can help, let me know!
PS, for the template the guy is using, I think I would order 36"x1 1/2"x 1/8" 01 steel. That way all you have to do is trace, lop it off with a hack saw and there isn't so much to trim (grind) off of the shape! Saves ALOT of time!!
Jim
Dragons Breath Knives
 
Posts: 4335 | Location: Nashville Tn | Registered: October 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Wayne Goddard's $50.00 Dollar Knife Shop is a great book for anyone interested in knife making. It covers both stock removal and forging methods.



https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-G...0+knife+shop+revised
 
Posts: 1608 | Location: El Paso, Texas | Registered: January 05, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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BillF, thanks for the tip.

Ever look for a tool that you know you have only to find out you don't ? I know for certain I had a grinder but for the life of me I can't find it. Not sure if I lent it out or if it took a dump and I tossed it. Anyway, looks like I need to take a trip to the store to replace it.
 
Posts: 86 | Registered: August 06, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You can buy tool steel from mcmaster-carr or even amazon. If you go with air hardening steel, look at A2 or D2 for knife blades. For quenching steels, look at O1 or 1095. The CPM's can get a bit pricy and for just starting out probably not worth it (yet). I'd go with A2 for a decent, inexpensive, readily available steel for practice, it also comes in more thickness/width variations than D2. (I like 1/8 or 5/32 x 1-1/4 for most sheath knife projects in the 3"-5" blade range).

I never use grinding wheels to make my knives. Just a large contraption the looks like a lansky sharpener, but uses files taped to a board. Easier to set an exact angle and you make mistakes slowly.

Also, make sure you have access to a decent variable speed drill press and a decent set of drill bits. You'll want to remove a fair amount of material from a full tang handle to get the balance right. Just remember, the bigger the hole the slower the drill speed and drill your holes in 1/8" increments at most.

I usually do the blade edge until it is about .015 to .020 thick, then harden and temper. Use black wet/dry paper and my lansky rig to take it down to razor sharpness/polish. You'll want a lot of wet/dry paper from 80 grit through 2000 grit depending on how polished you want to get.

Ken
 
Posts: 796 | Location: Missouri | Registered: December 28, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Throwin sparks
makin knives
Picture of sybo
posted Hide Post
Use sandpaper like it's free!!
 
Posts: 4335 | Location: Nashville Tn | Registered: October 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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