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Sharpening Q using Work Sharp Ken Onion Login/Join 
If you don't crash, you
ain't tryin' hard enough
posted
I don’t know what I am doing wrong!!!!! First, I tried using stones, but don’t have it in me to perfect the technique so got one of these gizmos.

My problem is that the finer belts I am using, the more the blades get dull! As if I get the sharpest blade with 120, little less with 65, then 22, and if I use 4 (fine) is just dull!!!! So frustrating.

Help?!


------------------------------------------------------------------------"Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face" - Mike Tyson
 
Posts: 438 | Location: N. TX | Registered: April 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You have to be sure that you use the same pressure and the same angle. Remember to work the burr all the way on each side between grits. Helps to remove the burr with cork or soft wood between grips.


Remember, this is all supposed to be for fun...................
 
Posts: 3542 | Registered: April 06, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of kalei
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Follow the Quick Start chart that came with it. I also ordered the belt to sharpen ceramic knives. No problems at all! Be sure to set the angle to the recommended one for the type of blade you are sharpening.


"All warfare is based on deception" Sun Tzu, The art of War
 
Posts: 444 | Location: Gulf Coast of SW Florida | Registered: August 13, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of az4783054
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I tried to stone a BENCHMADE and failed miserably also. I never tried a sharpening tool. It could be another expensive failure for me. I admire anyone who has the patience and ability to sharpen a knife like new.

Luckily the free lifetime service for my knives make them as new again. Minimal shipping cost and a 10 day turnaround is worth it to me.


*************************************************

Get over yourself. You're not that special unless you walked on the moon or received the Medal of Honor. Correct me if I'm wrong if it makes you feel a little more superior.
 
Posts: 7859 | Location: Somewhere north of a hot humid hell in the summer. | Registered: January 09, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Fighting the good fight
Picture of RogueJSK
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quote:
Originally posted by az4783054:
Luckily the free lifetime service for my knives make them as new again. Minimal shipping cost and a 10 day turnaround is worth it to me.


Same. I can get a semi-decent edge on a knife myself if I have to. But I would rather send it off. I have enough Benchmades in my rotation that I still have a couple on-hand to use while all the rest are off getting resharpened at the factory.
 
Posts: 19872 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My Dad laid carpet for a living. He would wear out stones sharpening those green handled curved carpet knives. I think I still have half a box of those things lying around somewhere. I can freehand a knife to a reasonable edge. It will also not look anything like a factory bevel. If I drop $$$ on a nice blade I want it to be sharp but I also want it to look professional.

I have seen guys freehand on some really expensive Japanese water stone and the bevels looked machine perfect. I can't do that. Not even close.

Over the years I bought all kinds of sharpening tools. I enjoy dabbling in the sharpening arts, I don't want to start a business but I like the process. Stones, Lansky, Sharpmaker, Work Sharp, Edge Pro, and now a Wicked Edge GO. The last two are easily the best of class that I have tried for systems. In a short time I can reproduce the edge, or better, that comes on any Spyderco or Benchmade. I don't utilize their free services because I don't like shipping off my knives. I also like to use the hell out of them and would be at the PO constantly. lol.

As for your issue, I am slightly confused. You are calling the belts 120, 65, 22, and 4. I have an unopened spare set of belts that I just checked and they are marked by grits, P80, P220, P400, etc. Are those numbers grits or product numbers or something else or am I just reading it wrong?

Work sharp just like any system is best learned using cheap knives and going slow. Ruin some beaters and keep trying.

Personally I find any new system takes me at least a dozen-ish knives to work out my technique to work properly. Don't give up early. It will come. The Work Sharp once learned is easy to sharpen knives. It is also easy to ruin knives. Start cheap.
 
Posts: 1573 | Registered: June 18, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Throwin sparks
makin knives
Picture of sybo
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Yup, definitely go with the cheap ones first, you can always take more metal off,you know the rest....
 
Posts: 4714 | Location: Nashville Tn | Registered: October 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I'm Fine
Picture of SBrooks
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Don't know anything about your belt numbers, but with grit numbers you would start low and work your way up to the higher number - not the reverse like you listed in OP...


------------------
SBrooks
 
Posts: 2811 | Location: East Tennessee | Registered: August 21, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
If you don't crash, you
ain't tryin' hard enough
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I think that we are saying the same thing, but these belts are not named the same as sand paper for example

120 - most coarse.

4 - most fine

So, start with 120,65,22,4 or most coarse to most fine.


------------------------------------------------------------------------"Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face" - Mike Tyson
 
Posts: 438 | Location: N. TX | Registered: April 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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