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Advice needed on removing stuck pvc drain clean out plug Login/Join 
Victim of Life's
Circumstances
Picture of doublesharp
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Title says it all. The guy that poured the concrete didn't put much thought in the type plug he used and I was too dumb to know. Sounds like a country song. Big Grin

Project is to remove square drive plug and replace with slotted flush mount.

Anyway I've beat on the square nut until I've cracked it and only moved the plug about 1/2 a turn and it's pretty well stuck now.

Plan B is to go after it with a drill and sawzall to get it out in pieces. Or maybe just drill a hole big enough to get a prybar and hope to hammer it out. I'm hoping to keep from buggering the female threads of the clean out pipe.

Sound like a good plan?





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Posts: 4693 | Location: Sunnyside of Louisville | Registered: July 04, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Subtle application of high explosives?




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Posts: 4797 | Location: SC | Registered: January 27, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I would drill two holes in the plug, on the center line one on either side. Take a piece of bar, drill two holes near one end the same spacing as the holes in the plug, and fit some bolts into them, fastened with nuts. Use this homemade spanner to turn the plug.




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Posts: 17944 | Location: Virginia | Registered: June 02, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'd take it out in peices just be careful not to damage the threads on the pipe.
 
Posts: 459 | Location: ATL | Registered: March 14, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The finished level of the concrete is above to face of the female adapter that the plug is threaded into. You could bust the plug out, but You are going to need to chip out a little concrete around the plug in order to get the new one in without buggering it. It is easier to chip out the concrete before pulling the old plug.
 
Posts: 1795 | Location: Spokane, WA | Registered: June 23, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yea, bare PVC galls and sticks to itself. On new installations we always coated the threads with pipe dope to prevent that.

Gradual application of heat will soften it and you can then work it out. Predrill a couple pry point holes.

Or drill a hole in the center and saw out from the hole to just short of the threads in an X pattern and you should be able to pry it out as well.

First you might try lubricating the threads. Apply Blaster or even WD-40 and let soak overnight... you might get lucky.

Dope or teflon tape on the new one!



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Posts: 4128 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cut the cap from the center with a sawsall. Stay away from the threads. Once you got most of it gone carefully clean the rest up with a dremel.
 
Posts: 1040 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: August 16, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Try it early in the morning before the sun heats up the concrete. It may be putting pressure on it.


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Posts: 3626 | Registered: July 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That there be cemented in place. Heating, breaking and taking it out in pieces is probably the only way since the cement is bonded to the sides of cap. (you probably have a row or two of cement threads now)


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Posts: 21097 | Location: 18th & Fairfax  | Registered: May 17, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PeteF:
Cut the cap from the center with a sawsall. Stay away from the threads. Once you got most of it gone carefully clean the rest up with a dremel.


I've done lots of these in steel and brass with a "cheese saw", a little hacksaw. And nicking the female threads is not the end of the world, just don't go too deep. Hey, it'll only leak if the line backs up. Big Grin

Is the pipe in the floor plastic or iron? If I was not worried about breaking a plastic pipe, I'd smash the plug out with a hammer and use a mini-hacksaw blade to cut to the female, then pry it out.

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Posts: 8759 | Registered: March 24, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Well, crap. That looks like quite the project. It is most definitely cemented into place, unless the plumber or whomever ran the line totally screwed the cap in, which isn't the easiest to do.

I'd try a few things. Do you have access to a left handed tap and bolts? Could do that in the middle and as you tighten the bolt it would loosen the cap.

Option 2 is to screw a piece of 2 x 4 into the meaty part of the cap and use that as your wrench point, as it looks like your pvc is rounding off. Also, put a breaker bar on the wrench, ie a long pipe. May as well use mechanical advantage. Make sure you are turning the right way as well, I unfortunately know this from prior experience.

Or, just cut it out. May be the only option, actually. Good luck, and can't wait to see the finished pics.
 
Posts: 796 | Location: NH | Registered: July 11, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Is the existing plug/cap screwed in or on?


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Posts: 5785 | Location: Pegram, TN | Registered: March 17, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I wonder if Doublesharp has that plug out yet?

One thing I learned many years ago is that if you have a "difficult" threaded junction the best approach is to "walk" it apart with tiny back and forth increments. I once spent two full hours working out a single case cover screw on my Honda but got it out without harm to the threads beyond the corrosion that made it so difficult. After I had it free I used a bottoming tap series to tap all the holes deeper and replaced the original screws with stainless steel screw twice as long with lock washers to keep them tight.


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Posts: 5643 | Location: Michigan | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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No way the threads will turn and I've broken the center square completely off. Tomorrow I'll finish getting the pieces out and either put the flush plug in or put a thin plate over it and screw it down. Just gray water from washing machine and kitchen sink so smell isn't too bad but it sure didn't turn out to be the 10 minute mini job I expected it to be.

Thanks for the advice and support. I'll post pictures of however I fix it and I expect I'll make Red Green proud. Smile


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Posts: 4693 | Location: Sunnyside of Louisville | Registered: July 04, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Well if the woman don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. Cool


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Posts: 21097 | Location: 18th & Fairfax  | Registered: May 17, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Keep your stick on the ice.
 
Posts: 1129 | Location: Washington PA | Registered: November 23, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Use Red Green brand duct tape!
 
Posts: 4498 | Registered: January 01, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Stlhead:
The finished level of the concrete is above to face of the female adapter that the plug is threaded into. You could bust the plug out, but You are going to need to chip out a little concrete around the plug in order to get the new one in without buggering it. It is easier to chip out the concrete before pulling the old plug.


This.
 
Posts: 4409 | Location: White City, Florida | Registered: January 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Grind it down flush and leave it until you need to remove then break it out.


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Posts: 251 | Location: Middle Georgia | Registered: June 26, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'd chisel out the concrete from around the female whatever-it-is first. Then see how to move forward.




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Posts: 38646 | Location: SC Lowcountry/Cape Cod | Registered: November 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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