SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Mechanics: Anti Seize for aluminum-on-aluminum?
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Mechanics: Anti Seize for aluminum-on-aluminum? Login/Join 
Three Generations
of Service
Picture of PHPaul
posted
Working on an ATV for a neighbor kid, rebuilding rear axle.

MAJOR pain in the ass to get apart due to age and corrosion, but managed it without breaking anything.

The chain adjusting system is an aluminum eccentric inside an aluminum housing. Would really like to coat the load-bearing surfaces with something, not sure standard anti-seize is the right thing. Is there an A/S specifically for aluminum-on-aluminum applications? A quick surf indicates a zinc based solution, is that correct?

Secondly, what is the best A/S for steel bolts threaded into aluminum? I have a tub of the standard gray aluminum powder based Permatex A/S for steel-on-steel. Is the copper stuff better or is there another product I should use?




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 15181 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ol' Jack always says...
what the hell.
posted Hide Post
They make anti-seize lubricants with aluminum in them to be compatible with aluminum.

Or this:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#1820k23/=1adbssf
 
Posts: 10186 | Location: PA | Registered: March 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of cparktd
posted Hide Post
No expert but IIRC, the regular stuff you have is good for most uses. It also contains some copper and graphite. It is rated to ~1800 Deg. It's the only version I keep and I use it for everything.


Maybe an expert will chime in or someone maybe find a spec / use chart.



If it ain't woke... don't fix it.
 
Posts: 4118 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of Sailor1911
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by kx90:
They make anti-seize lubricants with aluminum in them to be compatible with aluminum.

Or this:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#1820k23/=1adbssf


McMaster-Carr is your friend. Have several anti-seize compounds available.




Place your clothes and weapons where you can find them in the dark.

“If in winning a race, you lose the respect of your fellow competitors, then you have won nothing” - Paul Elvstrom "The Great Dane" 1928 - 2016
 
Posts: 3758 | Location: Wichita, Kansas | Registered: March 27, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Just because you can,
doesn't mean you should
posted Hide Post
I use Copaslip on aluminum Aeroquip fittings and on alloy steel too. There's lots of technical mumbo jumbo you can read but this seems to work well on anything.

www.molyslip.co.uk/copaslip.php

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 220-9er,


___________________________
Avoid buying ChiCom/CCP products whenever possible.
 
Posts: 9456 | Location: NE GA | Registered: August 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
To all of you who are serving or have served our country, Thank You
Picture of Jelly
posted Hide Post
quote:
A quick surf indicates a zinc based solution, is that correct?
That would be OK from everything I've read. Found this and saved it a couple years ago.

keith Sep '14
All metals fall into one of five categories for "activity". When two metals are in contact, the more active metal will corrode and while it is corroding, it protects the less active metal. Copper happens to be one of the least active metals, Aluminum is in the middle. The most active metals are Potassium and Sodium. Those metals are so active they will actually catch fire when exposed to air or water.

Zinc and Cadmium are a little less active and are often used to plate metal to provide a sacrificial coating. Zinc can be applied as a paste or a paint like product.

When you put and iron plug into an aluminum head, the aluminum will corrode while protecting the iron. You really don't want this to happen. Manufacturers mostly now plate their spark plugs so that the plating sacrifices itself to protect the aluminum. Non plated plugs need to have the paste applied and the paste should not contain copper or aluminum or lithium.

The paste should also be applied to a plated plug that has been removed for inspection as the plating will not be there anymore.

Copper anti-seize is made for stainless steel on stainless steel applications or SS on mild steel. Aluminum anti-seize is for electrical applications such as low voltage power bushings. Lithium or cadmium plating is for mild steel on mild steel.

You want your anti-seize to be one class more active than the most active material it is applied to.
 
Posts: 2675 | Registered: March 15, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Baroque Bloke
Picture of Pipe Smoker
posted Hide Post
Many years ago, I had a Porsche 911 with forged aluminum wheels. Lithium grease was advised for lug nut lubrication.



Serious about crackers
 
Posts: 8856 | Location: San Diego | Registered: July 26, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of Ripley
posted Hide Post
It's my understanding, in some applications like steel fastener into aluminum alloy, torque can be skewed. A real problem if precise settings and consistency are needed. I don't know about Al-Al, I would think there's a preferred way if precise torque is called for.




Set the controls for the heart of the Sun.
 
Posts: 8310 | Location: Flown-over country | Registered: December 25, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
A Grateful American
Picture of sigmonkey
posted Hide Post
Aircraft maintenance.

Molybdenum disulfide is what you want for mating surfaces and it also is proper anti-seize for the fasteners in aluminum threads.




"the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב!
 
Posts: 43810 | Location: ...... I am thrice divorced, and I live in a van DOWN BY THE RIVER!!! (in Arkansas) | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Bone 4 Tuna
Picture of jjkroll32
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by sigmonkey:
Aircraft maintenance.

Molybdenum disulfide is what you want for mating surfaces and it also is proper anti-seize for the fasteners in aluminum threads.


Asked my father and got the exact same response.


_________________________
An unarmed man can only flee from evil and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it. - Col Jeff Cooper

NRA Life Member

Long Live the Super Thirty-Eight
 
Posts: 11143 | Location: Mid-Michigan | Registered: October 02, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
TEFGEL is the gold standard when it comes to fasteners in aluminum on yachts.

Other than that good anti-seize.....
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Three Generations
of Service
Picture of PHPaul
posted Hide Post
Thanks, Folks.

Excellent advice as usual.




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 15181 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of bushpilot
posted Hide Post
quote:
Molybdenum disulfide
is what is recommended for aluminum. I am an ATP pilot and A&P with IA endorsement and have rebuilt 17 aircraft. My mentors beat that into my head.

Good luck!


****************************************************W5SCM
"We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the courts, not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who pervert the Constitution" - Abraham Lincoln

"I have been driven many times upon my knees by the overwhelming conviction that I had nowhere else to go" - Abraham Lincoln
 
Posts: 1143 | Location: Little Rock, AR | Registered: January 22, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Go Vols!
Picture of Oz_Shadow
posted Hide Post
Heli-coils may be your next topic. Corroded aluminum can be a real pain especially when that's where the threads are.
 
Posts: 17871 | Location: SE Michigan | Registered: February 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Three Generations
of Service
Picture of PHPaul
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
Heli-coils may be your next topic. Corroded aluminum can be a real pain especially when that's where the threads are.


Yup. There's one steel Allen head bolt in the adjusting mechanism that is being a real pain in the ass. Working with heat, PB Blaster and patience at the moment, but twisting the sumbitch off and drilling it out is rapidly becoming a viable option.

Only thing that's stopped me is that it's already about 4 turns loose and is one of four that clamps the adjuster down, so we could just leave it loose and get by.




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 15181 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Saluki
posted Hide Post
Every damn fastener I touched needed blue loctite. Damn bolts fell outta the old Kawasaki fast as you please, except for the ones that neede an impact driver to remove.

Who the hell thought Phillips head screws were a good idea to hold motorcycles together in the first place?


----------The weather is here I wish you were beautiful----------
 
Posts: 5130 | Location: southern Mn | Registered: February 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
A Grateful American
Picture of sigmonkey
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by PHPaul:
quote:
Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
Heli-coils may be your next topic. Corroded aluminum can be a real pain especially when that's where the threads are.


Yup. There's one steel Allen head bolt in the adjusting mechanism that is being a real pain in the ass. Working with heat, PB Blaster and patience at the moment, but twisting the sumbitch off and drilling it out is rapidly becoming a viable option.

Only thing that's stopped me is that it's already about 4 turns loose and is one of four that clamps the adjuster down, so we could just leave it loose and get by.


I have found Kroil or 50/50 Acetone/ATF (Weasel Pee) and patient application and working the fastener back and forth better than PB Blaster.

It seems to be much thinner and wicks better than PB as well as breaking down the corroded material.

Since you have 4 turns on it, you might me able to turn it back in and work it back and forth.




"the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב!
 
Posts: 43810 | Location: ...... I am thrice divorced, and I live in a van DOWN BY THE RIVER!!! (in Arkansas) | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Mechanics: Anti Seize for aluminum-on-aluminum?

© SIGforum 2024